Ask me anything about Audis!
Hey greenline4,
CVT refers to the type of transmission...yours may be a CVT or regular Tiptronic automatic. If you are not sure, check your trans code in the wheel well where all the option codes are located. Or if you would like, private message me with your VIN and we can find out.
PRNDS refers to the gear selection display on your dashboard. Does a red box ever appear around the letters and flash?
CVT refers to the type of transmission...yours may be a CVT or regular Tiptronic automatic. If you are not sure, check your trans code in the wheel well where all the option codes are located. Or if you would like, private message me with your VIN and we can find out.
PRNDS refers to the gear selection display on your dashboard. Does a red box ever appear around the letters and flash?
Hello,
I have two questions regarding my A3 2009:
1) I noticed recently when I start the car it vibrates for while until warm. Its not a hard vibrate but still noticeable. What could be the cause? Is this a sign that sparks plugs or coils are going?
2) I have scheduled my 115KM maintenance with the dealer. Spark Plugs, In cabin filter, CVT fluid change, Oil Change, Computer scan, all costing $900.00. Should I really be going to the dealer for all these items? Is there a reputable place that will give a better price and do a good job, with warranty?
Please Help.
Thanks,
I have two questions regarding my A3 2009:
1) I noticed recently when I start the car it vibrates for while until warm. Its not a hard vibrate but still noticeable. What could be the cause? Is this a sign that sparks plugs or coils are going?
2) I have scheduled my 115KM maintenance with the dealer. Spark Plugs, In cabin filter, CVT fluid change, Oil Change, Computer scan, all costing $900.00. Should I really be going to the dealer for all these items? Is there a reputable place that will give a better price and do a good job, with warranty?
Please Help.
Thanks,
Is your A3 a 2.0T or 3.2?
(1) How are the revs on start up? Do they vary while the car is vibrating? No CEL right? Leaky injectors and wonky fuel sensors are somewhat of a common issue but without a little more information/seeing the car, its hard to make an exact determination.
(2) Shameless plug here
Hi MotorFabrik, I am now the proud owner of a 2005 S4 Avant with 127,000 km in near perfect condition and by all appearances well maintained. I called the Audi dealer where it had it's reg maintenance done and they reported no unusual issues and that it looked like a good car. CEL appeared after first fill up and I assumed it was the gas cap. Our decoder flagged " mixture too lean" After adding gas line antifreeze and re capping, husband removed code with his decoder it still came back, not flashing. Car runs beautiful. Note: I have had a strange power surge( lasts a couple of secs) two separate occasions just after take off and never returns during trip. Any ideas? Also does the generic decoder work as well as the VAG that you all talk about?
Congrats on the car! Its a fun ride and rare to find an Avant! What colour?
A couple of questions if you don't mind. Do you have the exact code? Do you remember if the code stated Bank 1 or Bank 2? Or was it Bank 1 and Bank 2? If the light came back pretty much right away, its a hard fault. A smoke test can reveal if its a vacuum leak around the intake ...fairly common issue.
Power surge as in the RPMs jump high and the car doesn't move? Could you explain the issue a little more?
VAGCOM has many functions that a generic code doesn't...it especially excels at pinpointing certain issues and running input/output tests. It is a wise investment if you tend to do a lot of DIY.
Now slightly off topic but still relevant to your car. Please keep on top of your oil changes...do not exceed the 5K mark with that motor. The 4.2 V8 in that year S4 is infamous for eating cam chain tensioners and guides. This is a costly repair...we currently have a 2004 S4 with only 100K in the shop for the same job. Doing your oil changes before the recommended interval is your cheapest insurance in avoiding this issue.
If you hear any sort of extended cam chain rattle when cold, accompanied with cam adjuster codes, address the issue immediately...continued driving will bend a valve.
Last edited by MotorFabrik; Jun 16, 2014 at 10:36 PM.
Thanks for the quick reply. My car is Silver. It was a GTA car so you may even know it! Had to wait for Hubby to get the code for me again. Here it is. P 2098 'Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean Bank 2' From what I have read it could be a leak or a sensor. The car seems to be running smoothly though. As for the surges, it was the same feeling of a cruise control taking over for a second or two and then it cut off. Hard to say how much the car moved it was mostly a wtf moment lol, and gone the next. Hasn't happened since. I'm still learning the controls and haven't even used the cruise yet. Hubby wants to put in more gas line antifreeze at next fill up. He says he had this code once on a Ford pickup and that's what cleared it . Hard to say how long the car may have sat with small amounts of gas in it. I plan on being pro active with the oil changes but is there a way to check the chain tensioners and followers with out major surgery? No rattle on start up that we can hear
just purchased a 200 A6 2.8 Quattro A Audi
about a week after the purchase the check engine light came on and it stays on...
changed oil and filters and still on..
seems to be running ok
any advice??
about a week after the purchase the check engine light came on and it stays on...
changed oil and filters and still on..
seems to be running ok
any advice??
Not a problem! We are here to help out however we can. This is where VAGCOM or a really good scan tool can come in handy...live readings from the 02 sensor would help rule out if it is indeed the sensor. There is also the possibility of a cat that's plugged if there has been an extended period of misfires or running rich.
There were no other fuel system codes? Also, the mention of gas line anti-freeze brings up another question...how is the quality of gasoline in your area? Please only use a quality 91 for that motor.
The surge may have been an one-off but if possible, scan the TCM for any codes (assuming its an automatic here).
Finally, unfortunately there is no way to check the condition of the guides and tensioners. Your first sign will be cam adjuster codes and/or the cold chain rattle. That's why early oil changes with a quality 5w-40 syn oil are highly recommended.
There were no other fuel system codes? Also, the mention of gas line anti-freeze brings up another question...how is the quality of gasoline in your area? Please only use a quality 91 for that motor.
The surge may have been an one-off but if possible, scan the TCM for any codes (assuming its an automatic here).
Finally, unfortunately there is no way to check the condition of the guides and tensioners. Your first sign will be cam adjuster codes and/or the cold chain rattle. That's why early oil changes with a quality 5w-40 syn oil are highly recommended.
Thanks for the quick reply. My car is Silver. It was a GTA car so you may even know it! Had to wait for Hubby to get the code for me again. Here it is. P 2098 'Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean Bank 2' From what I have read it could be a leak or a sensor. The car seems to be running smoothly though. As for the surges, it was the same feeling of a cruise control taking over for a second or two and then it cut off. Hard to say how much the car moved it was mostly a wtf moment lol, and gone the next. Hasn't happened since. I'm still learning the controls and haven't even used the cruise yet. Hubby wants to put in more gas line antifreeze at next fill up. He says he had this code once on a Ford pickup and that's what cleared it . Hard to say how long the car may have sat with small amounts of gas in it. I plan on being pro active with the oil changes but is there a way to check the chain tensioners and followers with out major surgery? No rattle on start up that we can hear
The first step in diagnosing the issue would be to scan your vehicle to determine the nature of your CEL. After finding out what the CEL is, we can move to the next stage.
Hi, I have a 2005 A4 Avant. Auto 1.8T. I've got a random misfire Cylinder 1. Coil packs replaced/plugs changed, MAF cleaned. Still cant get rid of it. Battery is low and I've heard this will sometimes cause the misfire? It will run rough right when starting up but after about 30secs it will calm back down no misfire. However as soon as take it out on road to drive it the misfire returns. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks Jesse
Hey 05Audi,
There are a number of causes for a misfire but if you know the battery is bad, it is in the realm of possibility the alternator is not compensating for it. Rule out the charging system with a new battery and an alternator test. Ensure you test the alternator at the source.
Assuming the plugs and coils are good, check the wiring harness for any frays/cracks. The next step would be a smoke test to rule out a vacuum leak. Also, look for a possible leaky injector...the o-rings tend to get brittle. Those are the first couple of steps in diagnosis.
The misfire code on Cyl 1 was the only you got? Was the car scanned using VAGCOM?
There are a number of causes for a misfire but if you know the battery is bad, it is in the realm of possibility the alternator is not compensating for it. Rule out the charging system with a new battery and an alternator test. Ensure you test the alternator at the source.
Assuming the plugs and coils are good, check the wiring harness for any frays/cracks. The next step would be a smoke test to rule out a vacuum leak. Also, look for a possible leaky injector...the o-rings tend to get brittle. Those are the first couple of steps in diagnosis.
The misfire code on Cyl 1 was the only you got? Was the car scanned using VAGCOM?
Hi, I have a 2005 A4 Avant. Auto 1.8T. I've got a random misfire Cylinder 1. Coil packs replaced/plugs changed, MAF cleaned. Still cant get rid of it. Battery is low and I've heard this will sometimes cause the misfire? It will run rough right when starting up but after about 30secs it will calm back down no misfire. However as soon as take it out on road to drive it the misfire returns. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks Jesse




