wedixon

Hi All;
Here's the situation. I replaced the water pump and timing belt on my '86 5000 2.2L Turbo (MC) and when finished, it started right up and idled fine (pleasantly smug!). However, there was some 'ticking/clattering' noise, and after 1-2 minutes idling, I turned it off WITH THE KEY!! Since the car had been sitting for a month, I thought that might be the lifters low on oil, (although the noise was somewhat louder than I would have expected). When I returned when a stethoscope, she would NOT START! Cranks fine, but no start.
I then noticed that I could not hear the elect fuel pump pre-pressurizing the line so changed the fuel pump relay - still no 'buzz' with key 'on'. Then hot wired the FP directly, pump buzzing merrily (thankfully). Loosened the banjo fitting downstream (output) on the fuel filter, with fuel spraying out with good pressure. Re-connected fuel line - still no start.
Then double checked the timing marks (flywheel/cam gear dot/distributor notch) and all seems fine, set as per Bentley. Then removed the high tension lead from the center of the distributor and held it next to the head, what do you know, no spark. But, should it arc to the alloy head?
Did a fault code 'blink-blink' test and got blink fault 2113 ("VAG 1551/2 Fault code No. 00515 Hall sender in distributor Distributor alignment, faultly sender, Mis-located sensor and distributor" as per SJM Autotechnik web site) But distributor wasn't removed, and Hall sender wasn't touched. And since it was running prior to turning it off - what gives??
I'm having difficulty finding what connection, if any, there is to these symptoms. Or am I just fortunate to have multipe/concurent failures?
Anyways, whats next?
Any Help?

latchkeykid

You may have a broken wire connection on the distributor Hall sender. If it ran fine before odds are it'll run again once you track down the bad wiring.

wedixon

Hi Latchkeykid;
Thanxs for the response. Thats a good suggestion, I'll check the Hall sender this W/E.
But any idea how/why the fuel pump would act up in concert as well? I failed to make it clear that I still don't have normal Fuel Pump operation with the key on/cranking, and have to hot wire the pump off a spare battery to get the pump to run during my start attempts.
Seems unreasonable for me to believe there could be independent Fuel AND Spark problems that developed at the same time, especially right after it was just running! Could there be a more significant single major failure (ECU perhaps, or major relay, or ?) that might affect both Spark and Fuel together?
Anyone?
Regards.......Bill

wedixon

Message was copied out twice.

latchkeykid

Hi Bill, well the first thing that comes to mind is your fuel pump relay has gone south...and that happens quite often..the solder points just give up. So grab a new one of those and see what happens, worst case you now have a spare. From there the next little gremlin bastard that I can think of is your ignition switch, the plastic inner bit, costs about 20 bucks. Those suckers like to crack around the inner spring retainer holes and you end up with an engine that will crank and crank but not fire as the ignition circuit has not been completed.

HTH

FYI "Das Borg" collective of 6 Audi parts cars is going to be thinned out so if anyone in BC wants something lemme know...pick up only.

calin_g2003

Hi all from romania!
I have a 1990 audi 100TQ 10v, and i had the same simptoms(no "buzzing" from the fuel pump, no spark)-once a few days ago(after a 100km trip, i turned off the engine and i couldn't get it started again; the car started after a couple of hours with no problem) and again today, after a short trip. Today the car started again after 2hours; after 2-3 minutes of runing at idle i turned it of(with the key ) and didn't start again. It apears that the problem is with the engine warm.
I had also replaced the timing belt last week ( the car works fine if i can get it started) and i got the 'ticking/clattering' noise too, but the noise disapears after the engine warms up a bit, maybe the timing belt is too tight.
After i searched on this topic on internet, i got to the conclusion that the problem is with the hall sensor or the wiring to the hall sensor. If the hall sensor is broken there will be no spark. And it apears that one pin from the Fuel Pump Relay receives signal from the hall sensor: if the relay doesn't get the signal, the fuel pump will not start(so i guess the relay works fine). I swaped the fuel pump relay with the horn relay and the pump started buzzing.
Anyway, i will try in the morning the plugs from the hall sensor, and with another fuel pump relay(but i dont think is the relay's fault), and i hope i can get it started ( i think it will start at first without doing anything)


PS:i love typ44's and sorry for my english

wedixon

Hi again Latchkeykid;
You were correct right from the get-go!
Hall Sender was toast, and also learned that a faulty H.S. can also shut down the Fuel Pump, apparently as a saftey precaution, ie: post accident to prevent pressurized fuel leaks. I got all distracted by the F.P. confusion, my bad.
Thanxs all for your help.
Bill

BTW, did I read another thread that you still thinning our your spares? If so, could you plse call me
Cheers
Bill (604) 526-3378

latchkeykid

Hi Bill,
Glad you got that all sorted. I forgot to mention during our telecon that I will be parting/selling a complete running 86 5ktq (Cheeeap) and also have a pair of the Euro-lights with the white side lenses and a wiring harness I no longer need.