"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:af652d4d373d35cb6b3ff39b7b122037@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> do you know where is the engine oil belly pan?
> hunter

Hmmmmm....in answer to your two questions....

The Engine oil is usually located in the engine....(!)

But I expect you meant the oil filter ........ Its towards the back of the
engine on the right hand side (about half way up) as you stand in front of
the car looking at the engine. Easiest access is by moving the coolant
reservoir out of the way (just 3 screws & unhook the electrical connection
underneath). No need to empty this just move it away.

To change the filter you need to unscrew the old cannister - you *might* be
able to do this by hand but more likely will need a strap wrench. Once you
have it loosened then slip a zip lock bag over it and undo it & catch it in
the bag - this will also catch a lot of the oil that inevitably spills. Once
you have it out wipe up as much of the remaining spilled oil as possible.
Putting some paper towels underneath is a good idea before you start. To
replace the filter, smear a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal
on the new filter, fill it half full of fresh engine oil and then screw it
into place. Once its snugged up then add an additional 1/4 turn - you must
not overtighten it or it will probably leak and you'll have a hell of a job
to get it back off. Just tighten it by hand. Assuming you are a person of
average strength then a good rule of thumb is to make it as tight as you can
using one hand only - and then add a little bit more. Once you are done put
the coolant tank back & don't forget to plug in the electrical connector
underneath before you do.

To change the oil you need to remove the belly pan under the engine - it is
the plastic cover that fits across the entire width of the car underneath
the engine - so it is really very large. Removing it is the only way to get
to the drain plug. The belly pan is fastened by 2 or 3 fasteners in each
front wheel well & then three screws & a nut across the front & three screws
across the back. You can get it out without jacking the car up but its
easier if you can raise the car up. It is possible your car does not have a
belly pan. If it doesn't it should and you should go and buy one from the
dealer.

Since you are a novice mechanic I suggest you find some planks of wood and
just drive the front of the car up onto these to lift it 2-3 inches (that's
all you need) rather than try to figure out how to jack the car & put it on
stands safely. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks - they can disintegrate
under the weight of the car and never, ever work under a car that is only
supported on a jack - you are likely to get killed. Remember to apply the
brake & chock the rear wheels so it can't roll back off.

To drain the oil you will need a 17mm wrench to undo the drain plug - this
will be quite tight. Use a ring spanner/box wrench & you may need to help it
with a mallet. It is located towards the front of the engine at the bottom
of the side of the sump on the right side as you look at it from the front.
Make sure you have an adequate sized container underneath before you undo
it. The oil will come out very fast. When you have undone it you should find
there is a copper washer there - you should replace this. Before draining
the oil & changing the filter, warm the car up a bit first - not upto full
running temp but just run it for 3-5 minutes from cold to warm the oil up a
bit - it comes out much easier when warm. Allow it to drip for a good 20-30
minutes before you replace the plug and refill. Make sure the plug is good
and tight - you should really torque it with a torque wrench.

Get the car back to level ground before you refill with oil - just roll it
back off the planks - do not start it without oil in it! Add about 4 quarts
(suggest you use Mobil 1 0W40) , replace cap on top of engine and then start
engine. Do NOT rev it. just turn the key and allow it to come to life &
settle at idle. It will clatter a fair bit initially until the new oil finds
its way up round the engine. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, turn it
off, wait a couple of minutes & then check oil level - you will probably
need to add a bit - do NOT overfill it.

Once it is full & you are satisfied there are no leaks from either the drain
plug or the filter then refit the belly pan - this can be tricky and you
need to be patient with it. Dispose of your old oil and filter sensibly.

I strongly recommend you go and buy yourself a Haynes manual at least before
you start, and, if possible, get some help from a freind who does this kind
of thing regularly.

HTH

I.

 

"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:af652d4d373d35cb6b3ff39b7b122037@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> do you know where is the engine oil belly pan?
> hunter

Hmmmmm....in answer to your two questions....

The Engine oil is usually located in the engine....(!)

But I expect you meant the oil filter ........ Its towards the back of the
engine on the right hand side (about half way up) as you stand in front of
the car looking at the engine. Easiest access is by moving the coolant
reservoir out of the way (just 3 screws & unhook the electrical connection
underneath). No need to empty this just move it away.

To change the filter you need to unscrew the old cannister - you *might* be
able to do this by hand but more likely will need a strap wrench. Once you
have it loosened then slip a zip lock bag over it and undo it & catch it in
the bag - this will also catch a lot of the oil that inevitably spills. Once
you have it out wipe up as much of the remaining spilled oil as possible.
Putting some paper towels underneath is a good idea before you start. To
replace the filter, smear a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal
on the new filter, fill it half full of fresh engine oil and then screw it
into place. Once its snugged up then add an additional 1/4 turn - you must
not overtighten it or it will probably leak and you'll have a hell of a job
to get it back off. Just tighten it by hand. Assuming you are a person of
average strength then a good rule of thumb is to make it as tight as you can
using one hand only - and then add a little bit more. Once you are done put
the coolant tank back & don't forget to plug in the electrical connector
underneath before you do.

To change the oil you need to remove the belly pan under the engine - it is
the plastic cover that fits across the entire width of the car underneath
the engine - so it is really very large. Removing it is the only way to get
to the drain plug. The belly pan is fastened by 2 or 3 fasteners in each
front wheel well & then three screws & a nut across the front & three screws
across the back. You can get it out without jacking the car up but its
easier if you can raise the car up. It is possible your car does not have a
belly pan. If it doesn't it should and you should go and buy one from the
dealer.

Since you are a novice mechanic I suggest you find some planks of wood and
just drive the front of the car up onto these to lift it 2-3 inches (that's
all you need) rather than try to figure out how to jack the car & put it on
stands safely. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks - they can disintegrate
under the weight of the car and never, ever work under a car that is only
supported on a jack - you are likely to get killed. Remember to apply the
brake & chock the rear wheels so it can't roll back off.

To drain the oil you will need a 17mm wrench to undo the drain plug - this
will be quite tight. Use a ring spanner/box wrench & you may need to help it
with a mallet. It is located towards the front of the engine at the bottom
of the side of the sump on the right side as you look at it from the front.
Make sure you have an adequate sized container underneath before you undo
it. The oil will come out very fast. When you have undone it you should find
there is a copper washer there - you should replace this. Before draining
the oil & changing the filter, warm the car up a bit first - not upto full
running temp but just run it for 3-5 minutes from cold to warm the oil up a
bit - it comes out much easier when warm. Allow it to drip for a good 20-30
minutes before you replace the plug and refill. Make sure the plug is good
and tight - you should really torque it with a torque wrench.

Get the car back to level ground before you refill with oil - just roll it
back off the planks - do not start it without oil in it! Add about 4 quarts
(suggest you use Mobil 1 0W40) , replace cap on top of engine and then start
engine. Do NOT rev it. just turn the key and allow it to come to life &
settle at idle. It will clatter a fair bit initially until the new oil finds
its way up round the engine. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, turn it
off, wait a couple of minutes & then check oil level - you will probably
need to add a bit - do NOT overfill it.

Once it is full & you are satisfied there are no leaks from either the drain
plug or the filter then refit the belly pan - this can be tricky and you
need to be patient with it. Dispose of your old oil and filter sensibly.

I strongly recommend you go and buy yourself a Haynes manual at least before
you start, and, if possible, get some help from a freind who does this kind
of thing regularly.

HTH

I.

 

"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>

Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check
with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use
oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is
synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your
oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the
date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if
you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.

I.

 

"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>

Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check
with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use
oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is
synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your
oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the
date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if
you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.

I.

 

"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>

Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check
with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use
oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is
synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your
oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the
date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if
you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.

I.

 

Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and
weights of oil are posted.

It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved
list...
http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf





"Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message
news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...
>
> "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
>> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
>> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
>> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>>
>
> Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
> from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but
> check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should
> only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which
> is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for
> your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of
> the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need
> this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.
>
> I.
>

 

Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and
weights of oil are posted.

It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved
list...
http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf





"Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message
news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...
>
> "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
>> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
>> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
>> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>>
>
> Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
> from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but
> check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should
> only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which
> is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for
> your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of
> the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need
> this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.
>
> I.
>

 

Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and
weights of oil are posted.

It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved
list...
http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf





"Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message
news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...
>
> "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
>> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer.
>> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil?
>> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true?
>>
>
> Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter
> from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but
> check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should
> only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which
> is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for
> your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of
> the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need
> this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc.
>
> I.
>