Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
up.
I took the time to bed the brakes last night, then today after ~15
miles worth of highway driving, when coming to a stop, the rear pads
were smoking horribly on both sides. I pulled over to inspect it
further and smoke was just billowing out. The rotors seem okay.. I
didn't notice them adonized/glowing from heat, nor vibrating (warping).
Thing is -- if in neutral, the car is easy to push. If on a very-very
slight decline, it'll roll in neutral. I jacked up the rear on the
diff and both wheels feel like a slight drag may be present.. but it's
hard to tell due to quattro drag (couldn't put the car in neutral with
rear wheels up for fear of rolling forward).
Any suggestions would be _greatly_ appreciated. I'm at a loss here.
I've done rear pads on a multitude of vehicles and have never seen
this, nor do I know what I would do differently if I disassembled
everything again. Is it possible that the parking brake was adjusted
at some point to compensate for pad wear and I need to readjust it
again? If so, how is that accomplished in the A4?
Thanks!
to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
up.
I took the time to bed the brakes last night, then today after ~15
miles worth of highway driving, when coming to a stop, the rear pads
were smoking horribly on both sides. I pulled over to inspect it
further and smoke was just billowing out. The rotors seem okay.. I
didn't notice them adonized/glowing from heat, nor vibrating (warping).
Thing is -- if in neutral, the car is easy to push. If on a very-very
slight decline, it'll roll in neutral. I jacked up the rear on the
diff and both wheels feel like a slight drag may be present.. but it's
hard to tell due to quattro drag (couldn't put the car in neutral with
rear wheels up for fear of rolling forward).
Any suggestions would be _greatly_ appreciated. I'm at a loss here.
I've done rear pads on a multitude of vehicles and have never seen
this, nor do I know what I would do differently if I disassembled
everything again. Is it possible that the parking brake was adjusted
at some point to compensate for pad wear and I need to readjust it
again? If so, how is that accomplished in the A4?
Thanks!
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
branden.hughes@gmail.com wrote:
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
branden.hughes@gmail.com wrote:
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
branden.hughes@gmail.com wrote:
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
branden.hughes@gmail.com wrote:
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
> I recently replaced the rear pads on a 1999 2.8Q A4. Everything seemed
> to go well with the pad replacement, minus the horrible piston return
> design requiring a special tool. I merely pulled 2 bolts, pulled the
> caliper off enough to remove the pads, returned the piston to it's
> fully inward position, replaced the pads, and bolted everything back
> up.
Sounds as if you did not use the special tool to retract the pistons,
rotating them at the same time.
Get the tool and do the job according to correct procedure. This will
eliminate the brake overheating problem.
Also do a search on this NG to see related mails, including one from me
this past month on how to handle the extra brake fluid. This topic, on
replacing rear pads, has been covered many many times.
If you're unsure on how to handle this design of brake, then take the
car to a good mechanic who has the prerequisite knowledge.
Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
/Robert
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
Robert wrote:
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
Robert wrote:
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
Robert wrote:
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
Robert wrote:
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
>
> Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
'idiotic' design.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; hate them)
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help! 1999 A4 rear brake problem, smoking!
C.R. Krieger <88.535is@gmail.com> wrote:
> Robert wrote:
> >
> > Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> > an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> > wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> > pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
>
> I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
> design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
> certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
> use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
> handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
> 'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
> the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
> screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
> you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
>
> These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
> brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
> 'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
> 'idiotic' design.
And adding to the list, a design that despite being introduced back in
the 70's, they still don't seem to have totally cured the seizing
handbrake problem that they suffer from, although at least coming up
with turning the caliper upside down made it more reliable.
Speaking of which must look at which way round the calipers are on the
80, I got through a few calipers before I found out about mk3 calipers
on the mk2 Golf, don't want to go through all that (and the associated
expense) on the 80.
Why oh why can't they use the drum inside a disc solution, I know its a
few quid more to build, but saves a fortune in the long run, and you get
both worlds, all round discs, and a working drum handbrake.
--
Jon B
Above email address IS valid.
<http://www.bramley-computers.co.uk/> Apple Laptop Repairs.
> Robert wrote:
> >
> > Strange that you say this design of brake is "horrible". It's actually
> > an excellent way of ensuring that the slack in the handbrake, due to
> > wear on rear pads, is taken up. But of course one has to screw the
> > pistons back in when putting a fresh set of pads. What would you expect?
>
> I was right with you up until you decided to defend this caliper
> design. While I prefer the term 'idiotic' to 'horrible', it's
> certainly not in the same universe as 'good'. A 'good' design doesn't
> use the pads for the handbrake. A 'good' design won't allow the
> handbrake to loosen and effectively release as the disk cools. A
> 'good' design won't contribute to warping the rotors if applied when
> the brakes are hot. A 'good' design doesn't require a special tool to
> screw in the piston. A 'good' design doesn't require guessing whether
> you've got it properly adjusted for braking and for handbraking.
>
> These are all reasons I prefer the 'good' design of my old BMW's rear
> brakes (whose last adjustment I do not remember) and why I let Jaguar
> 'rape' me to install the rear pads on my X-Type, which shares this
> 'idiotic' design.
And adding to the list, a design that despite being introduced back in
the 70's, they still don't seem to have totally cured the seizing
handbrake problem that they suffer from, although at least coming up
with turning the caliper upside down made it more reliable.
Speaking of which must look at which way round the calipers are on the
80, I got through a few calipers before I found out about mk3 calipers
on the mk2 Golf, don't want to go through all that (and the associated
expense) on the 80.
Why oh why can't they use the drum inside a disc solution, I know its a
few quid more to build, but saves a fortune in the long run, and you get
both worlds, all round discs, and a working drum handbrake.
--
Jon B
Above email address IS valid.
<http://www.bramley-computers.co.uk/> Apple Laptop Repairs.