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Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer)
KLS wrote: > On 14 Dec 2006 10:59:16 -0800, "Ed Pirrero" <gcmschemist@gmail.com> > wrote: > >I consider a 90k Audi barely broken in. I have two well over 200k, and > >they are both daily drivers. Audis are all we have, and we have been > >stranded ONCE. Fuel pump went out at 200k miles. I got no problem > >with a 200k fuel pump. And I have heard stories about fuel pump issues > >in Ford/GM cars that require the gas tank to be removed to replace a > >$500 pump. Not even the Bosch 044 Motorsport pump is that expensive. > >(Used on 400+HP modded turbo I5 Audis.) > > Ed, I'm very happy to see this: I'm running a 98.5 A4Q 2.8 machine > with 104k miles, and it feels really good still. I plan to replace > all the struts next year when I replace the tires (I'm seeing some > tire slap), and I see no reason not to keep driving this baby. I'm > still on the original clutch! So, thanks: I plan to break 200K miles > with this car, if I can. All you need to do is maintain it, and fix stuff PROMPTLY when/if it breaks. Like, when that power steering hose is leaking, you can get the hose fixed/replaced a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing the pump and the rack and all that when all the fluid leaks onto the ground. Yeah, common sense, I know... You've got some symptoms right now of unusual wear on tires - figure out what's causing it, and get it fixed. Cheaper than eating tires every 10k, right? Putting off maintenance is an idiotic idea with these cars, and is probably what causes the most problems. Using sub-spec oil in a turbo car and wondering why the turbo craps out after 50k, letting the car run rich for months on end (after a cheap OXS goes bad) and then bitching because replacement cats are $1000. Well, duh. If you'd have replaced that cheap OXS when the CEL went on, you'd be $950 ahead! Blaming that on the car manufacturer is stoopid. I'm no pro mechanic, and I don't have a bunch of time on my hands (two young kids and a hectic schedule), and yet I seem to be able to keep 500k-miles worth of Audis on the road just fine. I wonder how that could be possible if they are such junk? Maybe the naysayers are engaging in a little bit of imagination, hmmm? Drive your A4 until it drops. Keep on top of the stuff that needs to be done, and it'll go well past 200k. As a point of reference - my wife's main car, a 1994 100 Avant, is the kid and junk hauler, and also takes all the trips across the state (350 miles each way). Its daily routine is start in the morning, 2 miles to a stop, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive one mile to a stop, turn off for eight hours. Start up, drive one mile, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive two miles, turn off, leave overnight in the garage. Tell me, ANYONE, that this is not the most severe duty one can subject a car to. This is the worst way to treat any car, and it holds up to that just fine. Sure, the oil gets changed every 3k with synthetic, but damn - it's still very hard on the car. 210k on the clock, and we plan on keeping it until is blows up. E.P. |
Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer)
KLS wrote: > On 14 Dec 2006 10:59:16 -0800, "Ed Pirrero" <gcmschemist@gmail.com> > wrote: > >I consider a 90k Audi barely broken in. I have two well over 200k, and > >they are both daily drivers. Audis are all we have, and we have been > >stranded ONCE. Fuel pump went out at 200k miles. I got no problem > >with a 200k fuel pump. And I have heard stories about fuel pump issues > >in Ford/GM cars that require the gas tank to be removed to replace a > >$500 pump. Not even the Bosch 044 Motorsport pump is that expensive. > >(Used on 400+HP modded turbo I5 Audis.) > > Ed, I'm very happy to see this: I'm running a 98.5 A4Q 2.8 machine > with 104k miles, and it feels really good still. I plan to replace > all the struts next year when I replace the tires (I'm seeing some > tire slap), and I see no reason not to keep driving this baby. I'm > still on the original clutch! So, thanks: I plan to break 200K miles > with this car, if I can. All you need to do is maintain it, and fix stuff PROMPTLY when/if it breaks. Like, when that power steering hose is leaking, you can get the hose fixed/replaced a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing the pump and the rack and all that when all the fluid leaks onto the ground. Yeah, common sense, I know... You've got some symptoms right now of unusual wear on tires - figure out what's causing it, and get it fixed. Cheaper than eating tires every 10k, right? Putting off maintenance is an idiotic idea with these cars, and is probably what causes the most problems. Using sub-spec oil in a turbo car and wondering why the turbo craps out after 50k, letting the car run rich for months on end (after a cheap OXS goes bad) and then bitching because replacement cats are $1000. Well, duh. If you'd have replaced that cheap OXS when the CEL went on, you'd be $950 ahead! Blaming that on the car manufacturer is stoopid. I'm no pro mechanic, and I don't have a bunch of time on my hands (two young kids and a hectic schedule), and yet I seem to be able to keep 500k-miles worth of Audis on the road just fine. I wonder how that could be possible if they are such junk? Maybe the naysayers are engaging in a little bit of imagination, hmmm? Drive your A4 until it drops. Keep on top of the stuff that needs to be done, and it'll go well past 200k. As a point of reference - my wife's main car, a 1994 100 Avant, is the kid and junk hauler, and also takes all the trips across the state (350 miles each way). Its daily routine is start in the morning, 2 miles to a stop, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive one mile to a stop, turn off for eight hours. Start up, drive one mile, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive two miles, turn off, leave overnight in the garage. Tell me, ANYONE, that this is not the most severe duty one can subject a car to. This is the worst way to treat any car, and it holds up to that just fine. Sure, the oil gets changed every 3k with synthetic, but damn - it's still very hard on the car. 210k on the clock, and we plan on keeping it until is blows up. E.P. |
Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer)
KLS wrote: > On 14 Dec 2006 10:59:16 -0800, "Ed Pirrero" <gcmschemist@gmail.com> > wrote: > >I consider a 90k Audi barely broken in. I have two well over 200k, and > >they are both daily drivers. Audis are all we have, and we have been > >stranded ONCE. Fuel pump went out at 200k miles. I got no problem > >with a 200k fuel pump. And I have heard stories about fuel pump issues > >in Ford/GM cars that require the gas tank to be removed to replace a > >$500 pump. Not even the Bosch 044 Motorsport pump is that expensive. > >(Used on 400+HP modded turbo I5 Audis.) > > Ed, I'm very happy to see this: I'm running a 98.5 A4Q 2.8 machine > with 104k miles, and it feels really good still. I plan to replace > all the struts next year when I replace the tires (I'm seeing some > tire slap), and I see no reason not to keep driving this baby. I'm > still on the original clutch! So, thanks: I plan to break 200K miles > with this car, if I can. All you need to do is maintain it, and fix stuff PROMPTLY when/if it breaks. Like, when that power steering hose is leaking, you can get the hose fixed/replaced a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing the pump and the rack and all that when all the fluid leaks onto the ground. Yeah, common sense, I know... You've got some symptoms right now of unusual wear on tires - figure out what's causing it, and get it fixed. Cheaper than eating tires every 10k, right? Putting off maintenance is an idiotic idea with these cars, and is probably what causes the most problems. Using sub-spec oil in a turbo car and wondering why the turbo craps out after 50k, letting the car run rich for months on end (after a cheap OXS goes bad) and then bitching because replacement cats are $1000. Well, duh. If you'd have replaced that cheap OXS when the CEL went on, you'd be $950 ahead! Blaming that on the car manufacturer is stoopid. I'm no pro mechanic, and I don't have a bunch of time on my hands (two young kids and a hectic schedule), and yet I seem to be able to keep 500k-miles worth of Audis on the road just fine. I wonder how that could be possible if they are such junk? Maybe the naysayers are engaging in a little bit of imagination, hmmm? Drive your A4 until it drops. Keep on top of the stuff that needs to be done, and it'll go well past 200k. As a point of reference - my wife's main car, a 1994 100 Avant, is the kid and junk hauler, and also takes all the trips across the state (350 miles each way). Its daily routine is start in the morning, 2 miles to a stop, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive one mile to a stop, turn off for eight hours. Start up, drive one mile, turn off for 15 minutes, start up and drive two miles, turn off, leave overnight in the garage. Tell me, ANYONE, that this is not the most severe duty one can subject a car to. This is the worst way to treat any car, and it holds up to that just fine. Sure, the oil gets changed every 3k with synthetic, but damn - it's still very hard on the car. 210k on the clock, and we plan on keeping it until is blows up. E.P. |
Re: Now LONG reply.....Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer
"Keep on Plonkin'" <Plonk@plunk.com> wrote in message news:12o5hedl5lml0f4@corp.supernews.com... > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:Bkxgh.702$Gw4.100@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net. .. >> Here are my views/ramblings on Vehicles and I deal with Audis and VWs. >> Follow your maintenance schedules for crucial items, Timing belts, oil >> changes, periodic inspections and usually the vehicles are very reliable. >> Allocate about $80-100 per month for maintenance, and if you don't spend >> that much then collect interest in the bank. Some years will be cheap >> and others won't be. ;-) >> You vehicle will usually give you signs of things going wrong BEFORE they > > <snippage> > > The more recent models seem to have far more problems. Timing > belts/tensioners that explode at 60K miles (105K recommended > replacement...hmmm. right after warranty expiration) that results is bent > valves and damaged pistons (class action lawsuit). True I also think the VWs started losing t-belts with the 16V engines and lowered their intervals IIRC. I have seen those timing belts fail at 45K miles. I always suggest changing them at 40K to be sure. I could always tell when the diesel belts were about to go but not the 16V belts. ;-) I see Audi now has reduced the change interval. ;-) >Poor engine designs that reduce the oil capacity on a turbocharged motor to >just over 3.5 quarts, resulting in oil "coking" that clogs oil pump inlets, >causing oil starvation failures. Bad coil packs (recall). The A6 model >had nine listed NHTSA recalls for the 1998 model alone, some of them almost >comical: Audi seems to blame it on the oil in the USA. Yes it is STUPID to reduce the amount of oil in an engine esp. when this type of engine NEEDS a good cool supply. How many gallons does a Porsche 911 engine need...3 or 4? Also I am not fond of the oil pan setup/construction. I have changed 2 in one week after a pot hole hit took one out and a tow truck took out the other one. Both non-steel and both cracked. :-( > > 1998-99 A6: When driving car registered in specified cold-weather state, > in extremely low ambient temperatures with 2.8-liter five-valve V6 engine > and automatic transmission, ice accumulation may cause throttle to freeze > in open position; engine may fail to reduce speed when foot is raised from > the gas pedal. Hmmm I will watch out for this one. thanks > > I think a high-mileage Audi these days is a bit like a piece of antique > furniture. Yes, it is a shining example of reliability and craftsmanship > (or maybe just driven by a competent mechanic with a lot of time on his > hands), but for each one you see there are probably thousands that didn't > make it that far and have long since fallen victim to the scrapyard. > > But if you're a fan of used cars, the good news is that they depreciate to > the point you can pick up a 2 year old model with reasonable mileage for > about half the cost of new. Just keep your toolkit handy. . . AND that is my hope!!! <BG> I want one that lost it's 1.8t engine due to the oil coking/choking problem. |
Re: Now LONG reply.....Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer
"Keep on Plonkin'" <Plonk@plunk.com> wrote in message news:12o5hedl5lml0f4@corp.supernews.com... > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:Bkxgh.702$Gw4.100@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net. .. >> Here are my views/ramblings on Vehicles and I deal with Audis and VWs. >> Follow your maintenance schedules for crucial items, Timing belts, oil >> changes, periodic inspections and usually the vehicles are very reliable. >> Allocate about $80-100 per month for maintenance, and if you don't spend >> that much then collect interest in the bank. Some years will be cheap >> and others won't be. ;-) >> You vehicle will usually give you signs of things going wrong BEFORE they > > <snippage> > > The more recent models seem to have far more problems. Timing > belts/tensioners that explode at 60K miles (105K recommended > replacement...hmmm. right after warranty expiration) that results is bent > valves and damaged pistons (class action lawsuit). True I also think the VWs started losing t-belts with the 16V engines and lowered their intervals IIRC. I have seen those timing belts fail at 45K miles. I always suggest changing them at 40K to be sure. I could always tell when the diesel belts were about to go but not the 16V belts. ;-) I see Audi now has reduced the change interval. ;-) >Poor engine designs that reduce the oil capacity on a turbocharged motor to >just over 3.5 quarts, resulting in oil "coking" that clogs oil pump inlets, >causing oil starvation failures. Bad coil packs (recall). The A6 model >had nine listed NHTSA recalls for the 1998 model alone, some of them almost >comical: Audi seems to blame it on the oil in the USA. Yes it is STUPID to reduce the amount of oil in an engine esp. when this type of engine NEEDS a good cool supply. How many gallons does a Porsche 911 engine need...3 or 4? Also I am not fond of the oil pan setup/construction. I have changed 2 in one week after a pot hole hit took one out and a tow truck took out the other one. Both non-steel and both cracked. :-( > > 1998-99 A6: When driving car registered in specified cold-weather state, > in extremely low ambient temperatures with 2.8-liter five-valve V6 engine > and automatic transmission, ice accumulation may cause throttle to freeze > in open position; engine may fail to reduce speed when foot is raised from > the gas pedal. Hmmm I will watch out for this one. thanks > > I think a high-mileage Audi these days is a bit like a piece of antique > furniture. Yes, it is a shining example of reliability and craftsmanship > (or maybe just driven by a competent mechanic with a lot of time on his > hands), but for each one you see there are probably thousands that didn't > make it that far and have long since fallen victim to the scrapyard. > > But if you're a fan of used cars, the good news is that they depreciate to > the point you can pick up a 2 year old model with reasonable mileage for > about half the cost of new. Just keep your toolkit handy. . . AND that is my hope!!! <BG> I want one that lost it's 1.8t engine due to the oil coking/choking problem. |
Re: Now LONG reply.....Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer
"Keep on Plonkin'" <Plonk@plunk.com> wrote in message news:12o5hedl5lml0f4@corp.supernews.com... > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:Bkxgh.702$Gw4.100@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net. .. >> Here are my views/ramblings on Vehicles and I deal with Audis and VWs. >> Follow your maintenance schedules for crucial items, Timing belts, oil >> changes, periodic inspections and usually the vehicles are very reliable. >> Allocate about $80-100 per month for maintenance, and if you don't spend >> that much then collect interest in the bank. Some years will be cheap >> and others won't be. ;-) >> You vehicle will usually give you signs of things going wrong BEFORE they > > <snippage> > > The more recent models seem to have far more problems. Timing > belts/tensioners that explode at 60K miles (105K recommended > replacement...hmmm. right after warranty expiration) that results is bent > valves and damaged pistons (class action lawsuit). True I also think the VWs started losing t-belts with the 16V engines and lowered their intervals IIRC. I have seen those timing belts fail at 45K miles. I always suggest changing them at 40K to be sure. I could always tell when the diesel belts were about to go but not the 16V belts. ;-) I see Audi now has reduced the change interval. ;-) >Poor engine designs that reduce the oil capacity on a turbocharged motor to >just over 3.5 quarts, resulting in oil "coking" that clogs oil pump inlets, >causing oil starvation failures. Bad coil packs (recall). The A6 model >had nine listed NHTSA recalls for the 1998 model alone, some of them almost >comical: Audi seems to blame it on the oil in the USA. Yes it is STUPID to reduce the amount of oil in an engine esp. when this type of engine NEEDS a good cool supply. How many gallons does a Porsche 911 engine need...3 or 4? Also I am not fond of the oil pan setup/construction. I have changed 2 in one week after a pot hole hit took one out and a tow truck took out the other one. Both non-steel and both cracked. :-( > > 1998-99 A6: When driving car registered in specified cold-weather state, > in extremely low ambient temperatures with 2.8-liter five-valve V6 engine > and automatic transmission, ice accumulation may cause throttle to freeze > in open position; engine may fail to reduce speed when foot is raised from > the gas pedal. Hmmm I will watch out for this one. thanks > > I think a high-mileage Audi these days is a bit like a piece of antique > furniture. Yes, it is a shining example of reliability and craftsmanship > (or maybe just driven by a competent mechanic with a lot of time on his > hands), but for each one you see there are probably thousands that didn't > make it that far and have long since fallen victim to the scrapyard. > > But if you're a fan of used cars, the good news is that they depreciate to > the point you can pick up a 2 year old model with reasonable mileage for > about half the cost of new. Just keep your toolkit handy. . . AND that is my hope!!! <BG> I want one that lost it's 1.8t engine due to the oil coking/choking problem. |
Re: Now LONG reply.....Re: 2006 AC Check engine light (help with dealer
"Keep on Plonkin'" <Plonk@plunk.com> wrote in message news:12o5hedl5lml0f4@corp.supernews.com... > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:Bkxgh.702$Gw4.100@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net. .. >> Here are my views/ramblings on Vehicles and I deal with Audis and VWs. >> Follow your maintenance schedules for crucial items, Timing belts, oil >> changes, periodic inspections and usually the vehicles are very reliable. >> Allocate about $80-100 per month for maintenance, and if you don't spend >> that much then collect interest in the bank. Some years will be cheap >> and others won't be. ;-) >> You vehicle will usually give you signs of things going wrong BEFORE they > > <snippage> > > The more recent models seem to have far more problems. Timing > belts/tensioners that explode at 60K miles (105K recommended > replacement...hmmm. right after warranty expiration) that results is bent > valves and damaged pistons (class action lawsuit). True I also think the VWs started losing t-belts with the 16V engines and lowered their intervals IIRC. I have seen those timing belts fail at 45K miles. I always suggest changing them at 40K to be sure. I could always tell when the diesel belts were about to go but not the 16V belts. ;-) I see Audi now has reduced the change interval. ;-) >Poor engine designs that reduce the oil capacity on a turbocharged motor to >just over 3.5 quarts, resulting in oil "coking" that clogs oil pump inlets, >causing oil starvation failures. Bad coil packs (recall). The A6 model >had nine listed NHTSA recalls for the 1998 model alone, some of them almost >comical: Audi seems to blame it on the oil in the USA. Yes it is STUPID to reduce the amount of oil in an engine esp. when this type of engine NEEDS a good cool supply. How many gallons does a Porsche 911 engine need...3 or 4? Also I am not fond of the oil pan setup/construction. I have changed 2 in one week after a pot hole hit took one out and a tow truck took out the other one. Both non-steel and both cracked. :-( > > 1998-99 A6: When driving car registered in specified cold-weather state, > in extremely low ambient temperatures with 2.8-liter five-valve V6 engine > and automatic transmission, ice accumulation may cause throttle to freeze > in open position; engine may fail to reduce speed when foot is raised from > the gas pedal. Hmmm I will watch out for this one. thanks > > I think a high-mileage Audi these days is a bit like a piece of antique > furniture. Yes, it is a shining example of reliability and craftsmanship > (or maybe just driven by a competent mechanic with a lot of time on his > hands), but for each one you see there are probably thousands that didn't > make it that far and have long since fallen victim to the scrapyard. > > But if you're a fan of used cars, the good news is that they depreciate to > the point you can pick up a 2 year old model with reasonable mileage for > about half the cost of new. Just keep your toolkit handy. . . AND that is my hope!!! <BG> I want one that lost it's 1.8t engine due to the oil coking/choking problem. |
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