Hot rotor
#5
Re: Hot rotor
Well thats the funny thing it still drives and brakes perfectly after it happened I replaced the pads and rotor but the same problem.I checked the piston I pushed it out very carefully it had very tiny bit of rust 3/16 of an inch back from the dust rubber cleaned that,still the same any suggestions would be great.Thanks Tony
#7
Re: Hot rotor
Which corner of the vehicle is it? Are you missing the backing plate behind the rotor? That's used to direct air through the rotor. If it is getting significantly hotter than the rest than I would say your brakes are dragging most likely due to a seized caliper. How much force did you need to push the piston back in? It shouldn't take much. For reference, you should be able to push in the piston of a brand new caliper with your two thumbs.
#9
Re: Hot rotor
Without actually seeing the vehicle, I still say it's the caliper. You can try disassembling the other side and push in the piston in the caliper to see how much effort it takes.
#10
Re: Hot rotor
My experience with a Hot Rotor
Driving along well above the posted the limit when I saw 5 Oh, slammed on the brakes, the passenger side front rotor would not let go, rotor became so hot it turned red and you could almost see through it. After getting the car home and the brakes cooled I went in search of new brakes. Bought new calipers, rotors, pads and lines. Severely overheating the factory lines will cause the brake fluid to boil and distort the original lines. I put the new braking system on the car, I ended up having to change the master cylinder as the new brakes would not bleed. The causes, possible seized caliper (have since had the old calipers checked out, was told they are not the issue. The other cause being the master cylinder with EDL decided when I put the brakes on hard, not to let go. Hope that helps
Driving along well above the posted the limit when I saw 5 Oh, slammed on the brakes, the passenger side front rotor would not let go, rotor became so hot it turned red and you could almost see through it. After getting the car home and the brakes cooled I went in search of new brakes. Bought new calipers, rotors, pads and lines. Severely overheating the factory lines will cause the brake fluid to boil and distort the original lines. I put the new braking system on the car, I ended up having to change the master cylinder as the new brakes would not bleed. The causes, possible seized caliper (have since had the old calipers checked out, was told they are not the issue. The other cause being the master cylinder with EDL decided when I put the brakes on hard, not to let go. Hope that helps