GR

Thank you so much
"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint
>
>
> --
>
> best of luck
>
> regards
> ottar t

GR

Thank you so much
"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint
>
>
> --
>
> best of luck
>
> regards
> ottar t

GR

Thank you so much
"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint
>
>
> --
>
> best of luck
>
> regards
> ottar t

Ottar T

På Sat, 07 Jan 2006 05:15:37 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:

> Thank you so much

You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work..
Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to
service.
Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to
hear where the sound come from from inside the car.
BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before
finding the bad bearing..


--

regards

ottar t

Ottar T

På Sat, 07 Jan 2006 05:15:37 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:

> Thank you so much

You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work..
Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to
service.
Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to
hear where the sound come from from inside the car.
BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before
finding the bad bearing..


--

regards

ottar t

Ottar T

På Sat, 07 Jan 2006 05:15:37 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:

> Thank you so much

You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work..
Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to
service.
Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to
hear where the sound come from from inside the car.
BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before
finding the bad bearing..


--

regards

ottar t

Ottar T

På Sat, 07 Jan 2006 05:15:37 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:

> Thank you so much

You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work..
Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to
service.
Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to
hear where the sound come from from inside the car.
BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before
finding the bad bearing..


--

regards

ottar t

One out of many daves

What Ottar T said............and.......
You might be able to skip STEP #1. You might have to force the control arm
low enough to clear lower ball joint. I use a fat chisel to open up the gap
slightly in the strut housing to release ball joint.

You could take the bearing and strut housing assembly to an auto machine
shop to have them replace the bearing if you don't have a shop press and
don't want to beat the bearings in and out. Ask around to see what they
will charge you for the labor.

STEP #13 install one of the circlips to stop the bearing from going too far
when you press it in. Then don't forget to install the last circlip. lol

Most of the time one of the inner races stays stuck on the hub, STEP #9, and
you will need to grab it with a bearing separator like
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3979
and press it off the hub. It can also be cut off but you do risk damaging
the hub a little.

OR..........
(If you rent a wheel bearing remover and installer you don't have to remove
the strut housing assembly. I have not used one of these tools yet.)
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint

One out of many daves

What Ottar T said............and.......
You might be able to skip STEP #1. You might have to force the control arm
low enough to clear lower ball joint. I use a fat chisel to open up the gap
slightly in the strut housing to release ball joint.

You could take the bearing and strut housing assembly to an auto machine
shop to have them replace the bearing if you don't have a shop press and
don't want to beat the bearings in and out. Ask around to see what they
will charge you for the labor.

STEP #13 install one of the circlips to stop the bearing from going too far
when you press it in. Then don't forget to install the last circlip. lol

Most of the time one of the inner races stays stuck on the hub, STEP #9, and
you will need to grab it with a bearing separator like
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3979
and press it off the hub. It can also be cut off but you do risk damaging
the hub a little.

OR..........
(If you rent a wheel bearing remover and installer you don't have to remove
the strut housing assembly. I have not used one of these tools yet.)
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint

One out of many daves

What Ottar T said............and.......
You might be able to skip STEP #1. You might have to force the control arm
low enough to clear lower ball joint. I use a fat chisel to open up the gap
slightly in the strut housing to release ball joint.

You could take the bearing and strut housing assembly to an auto machine
shop to have them replace the bearing if you don't have a shop press and
don't want to beat the bearings in and out. Ask around to see what they
will charge you for the labor.

STEP #13 install one of the circlips to stop the bearing from going too far
when you press it in. Then don't forget to install the last circlip. lol

Most of the time one of the inner races stays stuck on the hub, STEP #9, and
you will need to grab it with a bearing separator like
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3979
and press it off the hub. It can also be cut off but you do risk damaging
the hub a little.

OR..........
(If you rent a wheel bearing remover and installer you don't have to remove
the strut housing assembly. I have not used one of these tools yet.)
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Ottar T" <otverber_no-spam_@online.no> wrote in message
newsp.s2y4qcbfbvwgqy@abit-i-stuen...
> På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR <grredbeachjeep@pacbell.net>:
>
>> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing
>> badly,
>> can anyone give me clues?
>>
>>
>
> short listing follows
> 1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
> 2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
> high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
> 3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
> puller to dislocate cone)
> 4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
> to avoid strain on brake hose.
> 5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
> spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
> 6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
> 7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
>
> 8. Remove brake disc
> 9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
> inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
> 10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
> 11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
> 12. Clean bearing seating area
> 13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
> into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
> fit the new securing rings on both sides
> 14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
> inner side of bearing on firm surface
>
> 15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
> 16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
> is standing on jack)
> 17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
> 18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
> 19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
> 240Nm torque
> 19. Fasten stabiliser bar
>
> done
>
> Special tools needed:
> puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
> steering ball joint puller
>
>
> Use new nuts / bolts
> Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint