Stripped Torgue Bolt (female)
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
"Darnell Barber" <darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:%hvmb.128973$qj6.8337833@news1.news.adelphia. net...
> "Hairy One Kenobi" <abuse@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
> news:9Gumb.894$Zr6.98@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
> >
> > "Clanger" <D231@mygoatfseltd.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:bndocs$lmj$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk...
> > > or a shaped charge, 10oz should do
> > >
> > >
> > > "Hairy One Kenobi" <abuse@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
> > > news:7Qqmb.614$sP5.5993@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...
> > > > "Darnell Barber" <darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:bFjmb.126913$qj6.8155522@news1.news.adelphia. net...
> > > > > "Peter Bell" <peter@invalid.org.uk> wrote in message
> > > > > news:1f329b464c.peter@iyonix.earley.fourcom.com...
> > > > > > In message <cG9mb.125432$qj6.7963218@news1.news.adelphia.ne t>
> > > > > > "Darnell Barber" <darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > the female torque bolt on the head has been stripped.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Here's me, trying to work out what a female bolt is! Is it a
nut?
> > > >
> > > > > Sorry yes it is a nut
> > > >
> > > > So what's the problem? The nut spinning on a stud?
> > > >
> > > > If that's the case, you could try a nut-splitter.. it's named for
what
> > it
> > > > does ;o)
> >
> > <GRIN> Do /something/, certainly..
<moved southwards>
> Well it is actually a bolt and a nut all in one. Again I am a novice and
> someone else was doing the work. I just was not comfortable with just
> splitting the head if it was salvageable. Considering the fact that we
did
> not know if we actually had a cracked block or not and funds are tight.
>
> Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are stripped.
> So it is not a snug fit
OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
If you have, then you have a TORX bolt/whatever *probably* going through a
clearance hole[2] into *probably* either a cast iron or aluminium alloy
block.
Either that or you have a big threaded spike appearing through said
clearance hole with a "dead" nut on it. That's a stud[3]
As far as any damage goes - it's hard to say. A lot depends upon which one
you have - I haven't done a whole lot of stuff on Audi/VW engines (mostly
Ford, Rover, and a few bizarre things. I'm English; sorry; comes with the
territory..)
If it's that TORX thingummy (like a hex-shaped dooberry, but with a
star-shaped hole in the top), then it's dreadfully important to let us know
if you might have tightened it by mistake (clockwise down, like a
corkscrew). If it's the spike wotsit, then breathe easy - nuts are but a
couple of cents, and can be split with a very inexpensive and
readily-available tool.
Whichever way, *please* let us know before getting a pair of Mole grips to
the bugger ("self-locking pliers"? Dunno, but they must be used in the US -
other observers, please supply the correct phrase! Commonly used for
rounding-off Mini brake adjusters..)
HTH
H1K
[1] Don't ask. Pointy thing disappearing into a hole in a bit expanse of
expensive metal? (*Not* taking the wotsit - I'd give you the same look if
you asked me about (e.g.) embroidery or the finer points of
flower-arranging! Or whatever you know loads about that I don't..)
[2] I didn't make up the lingo! Not trying to confuse, but you may see the
term from either a respondent or an engineer who looks at the problem. As
well as (hopefully!) helping to sort out what's going on, I would hate for
you to be bull***tted by a garage! "Clearance hole" means "big enough to fit
through without snagging" Us engineers aren't graced with a lot of
imagination. See next point for confirmation ;o)
[3] No, really. Use your imagination! ;o)
news:%hvmb.128973$qj6.8337833@news1.news.adelphia. net...
> "Hairy One Kenobi" <abuse@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
> news:9Gumb.894$Zr6.98@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
> >
> > "Clanger" <D231@mygoatfseltd.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:bndocs$lmj$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk...
> > > or a shaped charge, 10oz should do
> > >
> > >
> > > "Hairy One Kenobi" <abuse@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
> > > news:7Qqmb.614$sP5.5993@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...
> > > > "Darnell Barber" <darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:bFjmb.126913$qj6.8155522@news1.news.adelphia. net...
> > > > > "Peter Bell" <peter@invalid.org.uk> wrote in message
> > > > > news:1f329b464c.peter@iyonix.earley.fourcom.com...
> > > > > > In message <cG9mb.125432$qj6.7963218@news1.news.adelphia.ne t>
> > > > > > "Darnell Barber" <darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > the female torque bolt on the head has been stripped.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Here's me, trying to work out what a female bolt is! Is it a
nut?
> > > >
> > > > > Sorry yes it is a nut
> > > >
> > > > So what's the problem? The nut spinning on a stud?
> > > >
> > > > If that's the case, you could try a nut-splitter.. it's named for
what
> > it
> > > > does ;o)
> >
> > <GRIN> Do /something/, certainly..
<moved southwards>
> Well it is actually a bolt and a nut all in one. Again I am a novice and
> someone else was doing the work. I just was not comfortable with just
> splitting the head if it was salvageable. Considering the fact that we
did
> not know if we actually had a cracked block or not and funds are tight.
>
> Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are stripped.
> So it is not a snug fit
OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
If you have, then you have a TORX bolt/whatever *probably* going through a
clearance hole[2] into *probably* either a cast iron or aluminium alloy
block.
Either that or you have a big threaded spike appearing through said
clearance hole with a "dead" nut on it. That's a stud[3]
As far as any damage goes - it's hard to say. A lot depends upon which one
you have - I haven't done a whole lot of stuff on Audi/VW engines (mostly
Ford, Rover, and a few bizarre things. I'm English; sorry; comes with the
territory..)
If it's that TORX thingummy (like a hex-shaped dooberry, but with a
star-shaped hole in the top), then it's dreadfully important to let us know
if you might have tightened it by mistake (clockwise down, like a
corkscrew). If it's the spike wotsit, then breathe easy - nuts are but a
couple of cents, and can be split with a very inexpensive and
readily-available tool.
Whichever way, *please* let us know before getting a pair of Mole grips to
the bugger ("self-locking pliers"? Dunno, but they must be used in the US -
other observers, please supply the correct phrase! Commonly used for
rounding-off Mini brake adjusters..)
HTH
H1K
[1] Don't ask. Pointy thing disappearing into a hole in a bit expanse of
expensive metal? (*Not* taking the wotsit - I'd give you the same look if
you asked me about (e.g.) embroidery or the finer points of
flower-arranging! Or whatever you know loads about that I don't..)
[2] I didn't make up the lingo! Not trying to confuse, but you may see the
term from either a respondent or an engineer who looks at the problem. As
well as (hopefully!) helping to sort out what's going on, I would hate for
you to be bull***tted by a garage! "Clearance hole" means "big enough to fit
through without snagging" Us engineers aren't graced with a lot of
imagination. See next point for confirmation ;o)
[3] No, really. Use your imagination! ;o)
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 00:17:29 +0100, "Hairy One Kenobi" <abuse@[127.0.0.1]>
wrote:
[snipped]
>Whichever way, *please* let us know before getting a pair of Mole grips to
>the bugger ("self-locking pliers"? Dunno, but they must be used in the US -
>other observers, please supply the correct phrase! Commonly used for
>rounding-off Mini brake adjusters..)
Either "Vise Grips" or "Channel Locks" will round-off bolt heads and nuts with
little provocation...
/daytripper
'00 s4 6spd
wrote:
[snipped]
>Whichever way, *please* let us know before getting a pair of Mole grips to
>the bugger ("self-locking pliers"? Dunno, but they must be used in the US -
>other observers, please supply the correct phrase! Commonly used for
>rounding-off Mini brake adjusters..)
Either "Vise Grips" or "Channel Locks" will round-off bolt heads and nuts with
little provocation...
/daytripper
'00 s4 6spd
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
> >
> > Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are
stripped.
> > So it is not a snug fit
>
> OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
>
> I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
>
Confusion reigns!
It sounds to me like a typical VW/Audi head bolt, a socket head bolt that
takes a 12 spline bit.
If it is, the head of the bolt can be carefully drilled off so that what is
left is effectively a stud. Just use a drill about the same diameter as the
hole in the bolt head. The cylinder head can then be removed from the block
and the offending "stud" removed with a stud extractor.
Hope this is not barking up the wrong tree.
Cheers Rach
> > Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are
stripped.
> > So it is not a snug fit
>
> OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
>
> I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
>
Confusion reigns!
It sounds to me like a typical VW/Audi head bolt, a socket head bolt that
takes a 12 spline bit.
If it is, the head of the bolt can be carefully drilled off so that what is
left is effectively a stud. Just use a drill about the same diameter as the
hole in the bolt head. The cylinder head can then be removed from the block
and the offending "stud" removed with a stud extractor.
Hope this is not barking up the wrong tree.
Cheers Rach
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
"Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bnf1e0$mtv$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
> > >
> > > Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are
> stripped.
> > > So it is not a snug fit
> >
> > OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
> >
> > I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
> >
>
> Confusion reigns!
>
> It sounds to me like a typical VW/Audi head bolt, a socket head bolt that
> takes a 12 spline bit.
>
> If it is, the head of the bolt can be carefully drilled off so that what
is
> left is effectively a stud. Just use a drill about the same diameter as
the
> hole in the bolt head. The cylinder head can then be removed from the
block
> and the offending "stud" removed with a stud extractor.
>
> Hope this is not barking up the wrong tree.
Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
No, not a good idea.
If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
direction that a drill goes.
If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and a
mangled bolt-head.
Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best attempt
at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and (being
more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique might
help, though ;o)
I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used the
set thrice \
OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a Helicoil/retap.
OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
--
Hairy One Kenobi
Disclaimer: the opinions expressed in this opinion do not necessarily
reflect the opinions of the highly-opinionated person expressing the opinion
in the first place. So there!
news:bnf1e0$mtv$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
> > >
> > > Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are
> stripped.
> > > So it is not a snug fit
> >
> > OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
> >
> > I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw[1]?
> >
>
> Confusion reigns!
>
> It sounds to me like a typical VW/Audi head bolt, a socket head bolt that
> takes a 12 spline bit.
>
> If it is, the head of the bolt can be carefully drilled off so that what
is
> left is effectively a stud. Just use a drill about the same diameter as
the
> hole in the bolt head. The cylinder head can then be removed from the
block
> and the offending "stud" removed with a stud extractor.
>
> Hope this is not barking up the wrong tree.
Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
No, not a good idea.
If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
direction that a drill goes.
If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and a
mangled bolt-head.
Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best attempt
at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and (being
more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique might
help, though ;o)
I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used the
set thrice \
OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a Helicoil/retap.
OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
--
Hairy One Kenobi
Disclaimer: the opinions expressed in this opinion do not necessarily
reflect the opinions of the highly-opinionated person expressing the opinion
in the first place. So there!
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
> Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
>
> No, not a good idea.
>
> If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> direction that a drill goes.
>
> If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and a
> mangled bolt-head.
>
> Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best attempt
> at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending bolt
is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
> For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
(being
> more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
might
> help, though ;o)
>
> I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
the
> set thrice \
I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
last resort!
How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the bolt
shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill bit.
It's just like drilling out a rivet.
From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
> OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
Helicoil/retap.
>
> OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
easy to use and are excellent.
Cheers! R
>
> No, not a good idea.
>
> If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> direction that a drill goes.
>
> If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and a
> mangled bolt-head.
>
> Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best attempt
> at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending bolt
is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
> For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
(being
> more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
might
> help, though ;o)
>
> I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
the
> set thrice \
I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
last resort!
How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the bolt
shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill bit.
It's just like drilling out a rivet.
From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
> OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
Helicoil/retap.
>
> OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
easy to use and are excellent.
Cheers! R
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
I pronounced improperly Torx Bolt
Sorry everyone, learning the proper names for the various bolts.
This is a Torx bolt (female) for an Audi 80 91' 5 cylinder engine
if this helps at all.
Someone mentioned a strong epoxy and letting it sit for a day.
Does this sound like something that could possibly work?
It just appears to be a bit easier than drilling etc...
AND MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR INPUT.
Darnell
"Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
> > Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
> >
> > No, not a good idea.
> >
> > If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> > direction that a drill goes.
> >
> > If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> > locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
a
> > mangled bolt-head.
> >
> > Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
attempt
> > at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>
> Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
> from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
> done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
bolt
> is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
> won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
>
> Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>
> > For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
> (being
> > more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
> might
> > help, though ;o)
> >
> > I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
> the
> > set thrice \
>
> I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
> last resort!
>
> How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
> bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
bolt
> shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
> the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
> bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
bit.
> It's just like drilling out a rivet.
>
> From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
> just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
>
> > OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> > intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
> Helicoil/retap.
> >
> > OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>
> I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
> easy to use and are excellent.
>
> Cheers! R
>
>
This is a Torx bolt (female) for an Audi 80 91' 5 cylinder engine
if this helps at all.
Someone mentioned a strong epoxy and letting it sit for a day.
Does this sound like something that could possibly work?
It just appears to be a bit easier than drilling etc...
AND MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR INPUT.
Darnell
"Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
> > Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
> >
> > No, not a good idea.
> >
> > If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> > direction that a drill goes.
> >
> > If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> > locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
a
> > mangled bolt-head.
> >
> > Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
attempt
> > at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>
> Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
> from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
> done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
bolt
> is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
> won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
>
> Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>
> > For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
> (being
> > more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
> might
> > help, though ;o)
> >
> > I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
> the
> > set thrice \
>
> I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
> last resort!
>
> How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
> bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
bolt
> shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
> the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
> bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
bit.
> It's just like drilling out a rivet.
>
> From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
> just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
>
> > OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> > intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
> Helicoil/retap.
> >
> > OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>
> I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
> easy to use and are excellent.
>
> Cheers! R
>
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I pronounced improperly Torx Bolt
I doubt if the epoxy will work. Torque is too high.
If you are SURE that it is stripped and that you just have the wrong
tool (English rather than metric, Allen rather than torx ...) you could
try this. Use another tool, one sized a bit bigger (try an English size)
and if it is slightly bigger, hammer it in very well and then try to use
an impact wrench to remove the bolt. Doing this will probably ruin the
tool because while it is hardened, it is still probably softer than the
head bolt. So you replace a cheap tool.
GOOD LUCK
Tony
'91 100 Q 5spd
Darnell Barber wrote:
> Sorry everyone, learning the proper names for the various bolts.
> This is a Torx bolt (female) for an Audi 80 91' 5 cylinder engine
> if this helps at all.
>
> Someone mentioned a strong epoxy and letting it sit for a day.
>
> Does this sound like something that could possibly work?
>
> It just appears to be a bit easier than drilling etc...
>
> AND MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR INPUT.
>
> Darnell
>
>
> "Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
>
>>>Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
>>>
>>>No, not a good idea.
>>>
>>>If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
>>>direction that a drill goes.
>>>
>>>If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
>>>locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
>
> a
>
>>>mangled bolt-head.
>>>
>>>Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
>
> attempt
>
>>>at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>>
>>Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
>>from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
>>done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
>
> bolt
>
>>is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
>>won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
>>
>>Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>>
>>
>>>For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
>>
>>(being
>>
>>>more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
>>
>>might
>>
>>>help, though ;o)
>>>
>>>I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
>>
>>the
>>
>>>set thrice \
>>
>>I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
>>last resort!
>>
>>How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
>>bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
>
> bolt
>
>>shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
>>the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
>>bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
>
> bit.
>
>>It's just like drilling out a rivet.
>>
>>From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
>>just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
>>
>>
>>>OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
>>>intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
>>
>>Helicoil/retap.
>>
>>>OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>>
>>I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
>>easy to use and are excellent.
>>
>>Cheers! R
>>
>>
>
>
>
If you are SURE that it is stripped and that you just have the wrong
tool (English rather than metric, Allen rather than torx ...) you could
try this. Use another tool, one sized a bit bigger (try an English size)
and if it is slightly bigger, hammer it in very well and then try to use
an impact wrench to remove the bolt. Doing this will probably ruin the
tool because while it is hardened, it is still probably softer than the
head bolt. So you replace a cheap tool.
GOOD LUCK
Tony
'91 100 Q 5spd
Darnell Barber wrote:
> Sorry everyone, learning the proper names for the various bolts.
> This is a Torx bolt (female) for an Audi 80 91' 5 cylinder engine
> if this helps at all.
>
> Someone mentioned a strong epoxy and letting it sit for a day.
>
> Does this sound like something that could possibly work?
>
> It just appears to be a bit easier than drilling etc...
>
> AND MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR INPUT.
>
> Darnell
>
>
> "Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
>
>>>Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
>>>
>>>No, not a good idea.
>>>
>>>If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
>>>direction that a drill goes.
>>>
>>>If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
>>>locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
>
> a
>
>>>mangled bolt-head.
>>>
>>>Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
>
> attempt
>
>>>at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>>
>>Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
>>from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
>>done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
>
> bolt
>
>>is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
>>won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
>>
>>Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>>
>>
>>>For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
>>
>>(being
>>
>>>more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
>>
>>might
>>
>>>help, though ;o)
>>>
>>>I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
>>
>>the
>>
>>>set thrice \
>>
>>I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
>>last resort!
>>
>>How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
>>bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
>
> bolt
>
>>shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
>>the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
>>bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
>
> bit.
>
>>It's just like drilling out a rivet.
>>
>>From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
>>just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
>>
>>
>>>OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
>>>intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
>>
>>Helicoil/retap.
>>
>>>OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>>
>>I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
>>easy to use and are excellent.
>>
>>Cheers! R
>>
>>
>
>
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
"Rachael" <rfearnhead@mybra.btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
> > Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
> >
> > No, not a good idea.
> >
> > If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> > direction that a drill goes.
> >
> > If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> > locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
a
> > mangled bolt-head.
> >
> > Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
attempt
> > at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>
> Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
> from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
> done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
bolt
> is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
> won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
There are other things to try first, in my view.. it'll work with an iron
engine (which I believe the 100 was?), but can do "interesting" things to a
alloy block. Been there, seen it, had to fix it for someone.. nasty job,
using shims.
> Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>
> > For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
> (being
> > more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
> might
> > help, though ;o)
> >
> > I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
> the
> > set thrice \
>
> I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
> last resort!
>
> How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
> bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
bolt
> shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
> the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
> bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
bit.
> It's just like drilling out a rivet.
A hardened high-carbon steel rivet, maybe ;o)
Personally, I'd try a few other things first - Mole grips being one ("Vice
grips" in the US - thanks day'). Most TORX that I've seen have a finished
head to make then easier to handle with oily hands, and can support /some/
torque.
The trick here is to make sure that your knuckles don't get too near to
something major when (not if!) they slip. (OT: many jobs on Minis were
described by the number of knuckles you'd damage in the process - "change
the clutch? <sucks teeth> That's a three-knuckle job, that is, mate")
The other time-honoured technique - if there's room - is to insert two
blades into a hacksaw (each pointing in opposite directions), and cut a
small groove in the head. This allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver in
there. Eventually. Lot's of scope for slipping, banging head against block,
and stabbing oneself in the leg with a screwdriver - be careful!
/Absolute/ last result is to try and cut flats to take a conventional
spanner. The bolt will ruin a bastard file (and anything finer will simply
slide over the surface), and grinders aren't the easiest thing to control in
an underbonnet environment. Best to have the engine on the bench for that
one..!
Haven't worked on the engine quoted - if it's an alloy block, then the bolt
may be corroded-in. A sharp (but gentle) tap with a hammer along the centre
axis of the bolt may help to break any corrosion-locking.
Graphite-based penetrating oil can also help, but it's a bugger to get out
again - remember, if you lubricate a torqued joint, then you'll get a
massively increased torque. And snapped bolts are an even bigger bitch to
get out..
Plusgas (effectively Zippo fuel) and WD-40 might also work (and are easier
to remove - they evapourate), but don't be surprised if you use a whole can
(and are completely stoned!) without affecting the bolt all that much.
> From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
> just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
;o)
> > OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> > intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
> Helicoil/retap.
> >
> > OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>
> I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
> easy to use and are excellent.
Excellent for ally parts; I tend to re-tap holes in cast iron (I trust it a
bit more when taking a torque..)
HTH
H1K
news:bnf7el$64b$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
> > Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
> >
> > No, not a good idea.
> >
> > If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
> > direction that a drill goes.
> >
> > If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
> > locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and
a
> > mangled bolt-head.
> >
> > Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best
attempt
> > at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
>
> Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
> from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
> done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending
bolt
> is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
> won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
There are other things to try first, in my view.. it'll work with an iron
engine (which I believe the 100 was?), but can do "interesting" things to a
alloy block. Been there, seen it, had to fix it for someone.. nasty job,
using shims.
> Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
>
> > For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and
> (being
> > more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique
> might
> > help, though ;o)
> >
> > I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used
> the
> > set thrice \
>
> I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
> last resort!
>
> How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
> bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the
bolt
> shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
> the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
> bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill
bit.
> It's just like drilling out a rivet.
A hardened high-carbon steel rivet, maybe ;o)
Personally, I'd try a few other things first - Mole grips being one ("Vice
grips" in the US - thanks day'). Most TORX that I've seen have a finished
head to make then easier to handle with oily hands, and can support /some/
torque.
The trick here is to make sure that your knuckles don't get too near to
something major when (not if!) they slip. (OT: many jobs on Minis were
described by the number of knuckles you'd damage in the process - "change
the clutch? <sucks teeth> That's a three-knuckle job, that is, mate")
The other time-honoured technique - if there's room - is to insert two
blades into a hacksaw (each pointing in opposite directions), and cut a
small groove in the head. This allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver in
there. Eventually. Lot's of scope for slipping, banging head against block,
and stabbing oneself in the leg with a screwdriver - be careful!
/Absolute/ last result is to try and cut flats to take a conventional
spanner. The bolt will ruin a bastard file (and anything finer will simply
slide over the surface), and grinders aren't the easiest thing to control in
an underbonnet environment. Best to have the engine on the bench for that
one..!
Haven't worked on the engine quoted - if it's an alloy block, then the bolt
may be corroded-in. A sharp (but gentle) tap with a hammer along the centre
axis of the bolt may help to break any corrosion-locking.
Graphite-based penetrating oil can also help, but it's a bugger to get out
again - remember, if you lubricate a torqued joint, then you'll get a
massively increased torque. And snapped bolts are an even bigger bitch to
get out..
Plusgas (effectively Zippo fuel) and WD-40 might also work (and are easier
to remove - they evapourate), but don't be surprised if you use a whole can
(and are completely stoned!) without affecting the bolt all that much.
> From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
> just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
;o)
> > OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
> > intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a
> Helicoil/retap.
> >
> > OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
>
> I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
> easy to use and are excellent.
Excellent for ally parts; I tend to re-tap holes in cast iron (I trust it a
bit more when taking a torque..)
HTH
H1K
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Kenobi and everyone that has helped a better explanation
Hairy One Kenobi wrote:
>
> A hardened high-carbon steel rivet, maybe ;o)
>
> Personally, I'd try a few other things first - Mole grips being one ("Vice
> grips" in the US - thanks day'). Most TORX that I've seen have a finished
> head to make then easier to handle with oily hands, and can support /some/
> torque.
>
> The trick here is to make sure that your knuckles don't get too near to
> something major when (not if!) they slip. (OT: many jobs on Minis were
> described by the number of knuckles you'd damage in the process - "change
> the clutch? <sucks teeth> That's a three-knuckle job, that is, mate")
>
> The other time-honoured technique - if there's room - is to insert two
> blades into a hacksaw (each pointing in opposite directions), and cut a
> small groove in the head. This allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver in
> there. Eventually. Lot's of scope for slipping, banging head against block,
> and stabbing oneself in the leg with a screwdriver - be careful!
>
> /Absolute/ last result is to try and cut flats to take a conventional
> spanner. The bolt will ruin a bastard file (and anything finer will simply
> slide over the surface), and grinders aren't the easiest thing to control in
> an underbonnet environment. Best to have the engine on the bench for that
> one..!
>
A drimmel rotary tool would make quick work of putting flats on the head
and should be rather easy to control.
Stu
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stripped Torgue Bolt (female)
Which bolt? If it's an end one, pry up the other end. It will
stretch the bolt, and it can be easily removed unless it is siezed in
the block. Same thing goes for wheel locks.
What engine, which head, what bolt?
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 13:20:08 GMT, "Darnell Barber"
<darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hello everyone, while attemtping to determine if I have a "cracked head" or
>"cracked block" the female torque bolt on the head has been stripped.
>
>I am desperately seeking an alternative to cutting the head. Which will
>ofcourse ruin it (if it not already ruined)
>
>Are there any alternatives?
>
>Thanks
>
stretch the bolt, and it can be easily removed unless it is siezed in
the block. Same thing goes for wheel locks.
What engine, which head, what bolt?
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 13:20:08 GMT, "Darnell Barber"
<darnellbarber@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hello everyone, while attemtping to determine if I have a "cracked head" or
>"cracked block" the female torque bolt on the head has been stripped.
>
>I am desperately seeking an alternative to cutting the head. Which will
>ofcourse ruin it (if it not already ruined)
>
>Are there any alternatives?
>
>Thanks
>