I don't know anything about that product. My personal opinion is that
if you use quality synthetic oil and change it on schedule, you
shouldn't have to add *anything* to your oil. The potential for harm is
there and there really isn't a whole lot of good that can come from it.
Best case is that you're simply flushing money down the toilet.

As far as Lucas in general....I guess I'm just an old timer. I still
remember the old adage...."Why do British folks like their beer warm?
(pause) Lucas refrigerators."

Cheers,

C

Bill Graham wrote:
> That's what I could find locally without driving all over town. I will be
> sure to change frequently.
>
> Any opinions on the Lucas products i.e. Oil Stabilizer?
>
>
>>Bill Graham wrote:
>>
>>>warp2_shadow@yahoo.com (C.R. Krieger) wrote in message
>>>news:<a8a578a8.0311110712.c043ca9@posting.googl e.com>...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Bill Graham <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:<BBD59BFC.20EE9%whgraham@nc.rr.com>...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>Even without the washer it will probably only leak a vanishingly small
>>>>>>amount of oil if torqued properly. The copper washer is there so that
>>>>>>it deforms slightly and forms a tight seal (without any undue wear and
>>>>>>tear to the crankcase or oil plug. I generally replace the washer at
>>>>>>every oil change.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>That was my plan as well, to replace it every time.
>>>>
>>>>While this may be the *proper* (as in 'factory recommended') thing to
>>>>do, I think it's a bit retentive, so I simply reuse them until
>>>>they start looking a bit flattened out and *then* replace them. As
>>>>you mentioned, it really doesn't leak much even if you leave the
>>>>washer completely out and use no sealant of any kind. It's not like
>>>>there's any significant pressure in there ...
>>>
>>>
>>>I changed the oil today and used a new washer, but I saved the old one
>>>just to have as a reference. No leaks. I'm assuming that the Fram I
>>>put in there is good enough. I did not have one of those German
>>>filters.
>>
>>Fram filters are crap. Perhaps adequate if you change your oil VERY
>>regularly at 3-5k miles. Nothing more.
>>
>>I prefer Wix or Hastings filters.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>C
>>
>
>

 

Bill Graham <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:<BBD71080.20FBA%whgraham@nc.rr.com>...

> That's what I could find locally without driving all over town. I will be
> sure to change frequently.

Here's a better idea because *Fram filters, in particular*, have been
known to cause startup oiling problems in Audis. There is no internal
drainback check valve, as I understand it, making hydraulic lifter
pumpup take an inordinately long time because there's not enough oil
pressure (because there's not enough oil remaining in the filter) on
startup. In rare cases, Fram filters have been known to *rupture*
(You can imagine the result.) on Audis, as well. I'll use Frams on
everything (OEM BMW M30 engine filters; Ford truck V-8; Jeep I-6,
etc.) *but* my Audis now.

Go to Blaufergnügen at www.audiquattroparts.com and buy a case (10) of
OEM Mann filters. It won't cost much more, if any, and you'll be sure
to have the *correct* filter in the future. If it *didn't really
matter* (remember, I'm a guy who reuses the washers), I wouldn't tell
you this, but Fram oil filters and Audis are just plain Bad News.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)

 

"C.R. Krieger" schrieb:

> While this may be the *proper* (as in 'factory recommended') thing to
> do, I think it's a bit retentive, so I simply reuse them until
> they start looking a bit flattened out and *then* replace them.

But think about one problem: When the copper washer gets pressed the
first time the copper becomes harder. You can reuse a copper washer by
glowing it slithly in a gas flame. But be careful not to burn it.

I've done so in the past on sverav cars when changing oil and forgotten
to get an new washer. And it was everytime 2 minutes after stores
closing when needed a new one

--
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Andreas Bockelmann
V+49-172-6993141

 

BILL!!!! (and anybody else who uses the "Agent Orange Canister of Audi
Engine Death")
Argh....FRAM???? Do yourself a favour and go to Audifans and search under
"Fram".
The high volume rate of flow is WAY too much for a Fram filter. Although
the charts show that a certain filter number will work...THEY WON"T. Under
the high flow rate used in your turbo engine, they will implode, and bits of
the paper media will plug up internal oil passages leading to.....you
guessed it....a blown motor.
Get that orange junk outa there. Go to the dealer, call zzmotors or Blau,
anything but that.
Cheers!

--
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Bosch and Mann filters _only_ - but a Fram oil pan drain
valve (hey, they're not totally evil...)
1980 Audi 5k - Bosch filters _only_
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Oil Filters? Huh?
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"Bill Graham" <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:BBD71080.20FBA%whgraham@nc.rr.com...
> That's what I could find locally without driving all over town. I will be
> sure to change frequently.
>
> Any opinions on the Lucas products i.e. Oil Stabilizer?
>
> > Bill Graham wrote:
> >> warp2_shadow@yahoo.com (C.R. Krieger) wrote in message
> >> news:<a8a578a8.0311110712.c043ca9@posting.google.c om>...
> >>
> >>> Bill Graham <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> >>> news:<BBD59BFC.20EE9%whgraham@nc.rr.com>...
> >>>
> >>>>> Even without the washer it will probably only leak a vanishingly
small
> >>>>> amount of oil if torqued properly. The copper washer is there so
that
> >>>>> it deforms slightly and forms a tight seal (without any undue wear
and
> >>>>> tear to the crankcase or oil plug. I generally replace the washer
at
> >>>>> every oil change.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> That was my plan as well, to replace it every time.
> >>>
> >>> While this may be the *proper* (as in 'factory recommended') thing to
> >>> do, I think it's a bit retentive, so I simply reuse them until
> >>> they start looking a bit flattened out and *then* replace them. As
> >>> you mentioned, it really doesn't leak much even if you leave the
> >>> washer completely out and use no sealant of any kind. It's not like
> >>> there's any significant pressure in there ...
> >>
> >>
> >> I changed the oil today and used a new washer, but I saved the old one
> >> just to have as a reference. No leaks. I'm assuming that the Fram I
> >> put in there is good enough. I did not have one of those German
> >> filters.
> >
> > Fram filters are crap. Perhaps adequate if you change your oil VERY
> > regularly at 3-5k miles. Nothing more.
> >
> > I prefer Wix or Hastings filters.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > C
> >
>

 

Yep,
As Andreas says, you can anneal them by heating to red hot with a propane
torch (then letting them cool, of course - ouch) - don't quench them in
water (let them air cool.
Or hey, Fumoto or <shudder>Fram<shudder> make drain valves you don't need
wrenches to use - you only need a new washer once for those.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - with a Fram Oil Pan Drain Valve - but no orange filters!!!!
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Andreas Bockelmann" <xotzil@gmx.de> wrote in message
news:3fb72325$0$11889$9b4e6d93@newsread2.arcor-online.net...
> "C.R. Krieger" schrieb:
>
> > While this may be the *proper* (as in 'factory recommended') thing to
> > do, I think it's a bit retentive, so I simply reuse them until
> > they start looking a bit flattened out and *then* replace them.
>
> But think about one problem: When the copper washer gets pressed the
> first time the copper becomes harder. You can reuse a copper washer by
> glowing it slithly in a gas flame. But be careful not to burn it.
>
> I've done so in the past on sverav cars when changing oil and forgotten
> to get an new washer. And it was everytime 2 minutes after stores
> closing when needed a new one
>
> --
> Mit freundlichen Grüßen
> Andreas Bockelmann
> V+49-172-6993141

 

Already swapped it out for a MANN. Thanks Steve.

Bill

> BILL!!!! (and anybody else who uses the "Agent Orange Canister of Audi
> Engine Death")
> Argh....FRAM???? Do yourself a favour and go to Audifans and search under
> "Fram".
> The high volume rate of flow is WAY too much for a Fram filter. Although
> the charts show that a certain filter number will work...THEY WON"T. Under
> the high flow rate used in your turbo engine, they will implode, and bits of
> the paper media will plug up internal oil passages leading to.....you
> guessed it....a blown motor.
> Get that orange junk outa there. Go to the dealer, call zzmotors or Blau,
> anything but that.
> Cheers!