Steve Sears

Tony,
Try Chris Miller's site:
http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/bo...0element%20fix
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

Cullain

None of what you guys stated do i feel anywhere near capable of performing at all. I'm seriously a total dumbass when it comes to cars, which is why I'd like to start to learn. What I think I'll do is take what you guys told me over to the mechanic and show him what you told me. I don't think I'll be able to buy a Bentley manual anytime soon due to its high price, but I did get a manual on CD that I think will help.

I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?

Thanks guys,

Tony

C.R. Krieger

"Cullain" <tpezzati@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3dd55e2fc75dacc78b4864bca78704e7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>
> I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It
doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get
it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?

Four simple and cheap things to check first:

1) Fuses

2) Switch contacts (You will *need* aerosol contact cleaner for this car!
Just spray it directly into the column stalk switch and work it a bit.)

3) The vacuum/electric cutoff switches on the brake and clutch pedals.

4) The vacuum lines to the actuator and the mechanical connections to the
throttle linkage.

After that, you might be talking real money to fix it.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; broke that)

Steve Sears

Tony,
Um....yeah. <Voice on bullhorn from outside the garage> "Tony....put down
the SAE wrenches and step away from the car...."
All this voltmeter/contact cleaner/etc. stuff _IS_ the easy stuff. Just
wait until you find out, after tracing wires for hours trying to figure out
why your dash doesn't light up...you find the problem is that one of the
license plate lights is burned out. If you want your hind-end heated,
Wallymart has heated seat cushions, don't they? That would be the easiest
"solution".
The cruise control problem is probably a vacuum leak - common thing in our
cars (causing cruise control problems, climate control problems, central
door lock problems, engine problems.....) - um...should I mention Mighty Vac
here or not.....hmmm. My cruise control did not work when I got my '87
5ktq. I replaced vacuum hoses, the vacuum pump (under the coolant
reservoir, behind the fender), etc. etc. etc. - then found out that the PO
(one of the many) had removed the control unit from under the dash
(hmm...Tony, did you own a stone-grey metallic 1987 Audi 5000CD quattro?) -
anyway, replaced that and the cruise works very well now. If you have a
manual on CD, find out how to troubleshoot the Cruise and go for it -
there's similar stuff on Scott Mockry's site.
You would be well advised to check Scott Mockry's site
(www.sjmautotechnik.com), Chris Miller's site (members.aol.com/c1j1miller/)
and the archives of Audifans (www.audifans.com) and Audiworld
(www.audiworld.com) every time you have a problem with something on the car.
Chances are, the answers are there - and countless others have already
searched theough mazes of wires, vacuum lines, pages of Bentley Manuals,
Audi TSB's, etc. etc. and found the soultion (and posted it for all to see).
Heck - these resources are free!!
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - cruise works, although vacuum pump is getting tired
1980 Audi 5k - cruise control is posessed by demons - I must have a shaman
come to drive them out before next summer
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - cruise control = floor (hold
pedal on floor, drive along merrily)
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"Cullain" <tpezzati@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3dd55e2fc75dacc78b4864bca78704e7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> None of what you guys stated do i feel anywhere near capable of performing
at all. I'm seriously a total dumbass when it comes to cars, which is why
I'd like to start to learn. What I think I'll do is take what you guys told
me over to the mechanic and show him what you told me. I don't think I'll
be able to buy a Bentley manual anytime soon due to its high price, but I
did get a manual on CD that I think will help.
>
> I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It
doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get
it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Tony
>

TonyJ

Just a little more of a hint.

C.R. Krieger wrote:
> "Cullain" <tpezzati@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3dd55e2fc75dacc78b4864bca78704e7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>
>>I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It
>
> doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get
> it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?
>
> Four simple and cheap things to check first:
>
> 1) Fuses
>
> 2) Switch contacts (You will *need* aerosol contact cleaner for this car!
> Just spray it directly into the column stalk switch and work it a bit.)
>
> 3) The vacuum/electric cutoff switches on the brake and clutch pedals.
>
> 4) The vacuum lines to the actuator and the mechanical connections to the
> throttle linkage.

A very common location to find a vacuum break is at the 'T' connector
just behind the brake master cylinder reservoir. The vacuum like cracks
due to time and heat. It has been suggested that the lines under the
hood should be replaced with silicone.

>
> After that, you might be talking real money to fix it.
> --
> C.R. Krieger
> (Been there; broke that)
>
>

TonyJ

> (hmm...Tony, did you own a stone-grey metallic 1987 Audi 5000CD quattro?) -

Ha, Actually, b4 my current '91 100q I did have an '87q 5spd but it was
tan. It is now owned by another Audi guy who knows his wrenches.

Tony
'91 100q 5spd

Petkan

ABS light may be due to dirty teeth (inside the wheel hub) (my 1986 5000TQ
had this problem), or the sensor tips (it has permanent magnet and attracts
swarf. Pulling the sensors is easy (you may need self grip pliers - the
sensor retaining bolt hex head may be rounded. To clean the teeth you need
to partially take apart the front suspension - remove the wheel, the
caliper, the steering rod, trailing arm, the ABS sensor, the hub from the CV
joint. Painful, but you can wait for the next CV joint replacement to do it
then.

"Cullain" <tpezzati@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f648d1e0b9ec7e44f044f595ebea92e3@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Hi, I own an 1989 Audi 200 quattro and my knowledge on cars is severely
limited. I really would like to take the time to get to know my car and how
to treat it better. And I figure since I'm so young (1 that I'd best
start learning. I have a pretty good mechanic who has a pretty good
familiarity with Audi's, however he still doesn't know everything and I just
wanted to know of some specific things that I should possibly have him check
on that may be problematic for my type of vehicle.
>
> Right now I have no power brakes, or steering, and my antilock off light
is on constantly, even when I push the ABS button on it to turn it back on.
My mechanic told me that I needed to get a new power steering pump and that
it would fix the problems. I have already gone ahead and placed an order
for the pump, but is that all that I need do you think? I'm not sure if
that pump will fix the ABS problem, or if it will just fix the power
steering and brake problem. Also, he said I need to get the synthetic power
fluid for the car and only can get it direct at Audi, but the Audi dealer
over here charges $25 for it and I know that I can get it online for
cheaper, now my question is do I get the Pentosin CHF 7.1, or the 11S?
>
> I don't know what it's called but I don't have where the flap that goes
over the space where my air filter is. Is this something that I should try
getting? If so what is it called so I can get one? Also, I live in Central
Oregon, and it's becoming that time where it's becoming snowy and the
weather is getting to be a little more nasty and cold. I really need to get
an oil change as it's now been 1,000 miles over (only due to financial
reasons, I normally get it changed every 2,500 miles), what is the best
viscosity of oil for me to get with my weather and car in mind? I don't
really have any more questions right now but I'm sure I will again soon.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tony
>

Bill Graham

I had this T go bad and the car couldn't run. $21.00 from the dealer.

> Just a little more of a hint.
>
> C.R. Krieger wrote:
>> "Cullain" <tpezzati@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:3dd55e2fc75dacc78b4864bca78704e7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>>
>>> I do have one final question. My cruise control also doesn't work. It
>>
>> doesn't engage at all or whatsoever, just nothing happens when I try to get
>> it going... What are some things that could be the problem here?
>>
>> Four simple and cheap things to check first:
>>
>> 1) Fuses
>>
>> 2) Switch contacts (You will *need* aerosol contact cleaner for this car!
>> Just spray it directly into the column stalk switch and work it a bit.)
>>
>> 3) The vacuum/electric cutoff switches on the brake and clutch pedals.
>>
>> 4) The vacuum lines to the actuator and the mechanical connections to the
>> throttle linkage.
>
> A very common location to find a vacuum break is at the 'T' connector
> just behind the brake master cylinder reservoir. The vacuum like cracks
> due to time and heat. It has been suggested that the lines under the
> hood should be replaced with silicone.
>
>>
>> After that, you might be talking real money to fix it.
>> --
>> C.R. Krieger
>> (Been there; broke that)
>>
>>
>