'99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
03-03-2006, 09:59 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Steve,
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
03-03-2006, 09:59 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Steve,
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
03-03-2006, 09:59 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Steve,
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or plastic
nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the plate? Thanx
in advance.
Andy
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Dale,
> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used cars,
> are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I would
> have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can get a
> fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot. As to
> how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I always
> buy for a car I work on.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
> stainless hardware
> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
> rust
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
> "Dale Webler" <dwebler@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:JQtNf.5013$Eg2.394@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>I snapped three of four mounting nuts off the plastic backing myself,
>>trying to get frozen screws out. Wound up having to take it to dealer for
>>new plastic panel. Expensive lesson. I'll never understand how the
>>design and engineering geniuses at Audi can produce a wonderful automobile
>>in all other aspects but screw up on a simple thing like using compatible
>>materials that won't rust/freeze the license to the mounting brackets.
>>Very frustrating.
>>
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:HznNf.4337$972.170181@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Andy,
>>> Have you tried a Dremel tool to remove the screws? How about using a
>>> soldering iron to heat up the screws to melt the plastic a bit to
>>> release the rusty threads?
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - not an A6 avant
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - not an A6 avant
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - ditto
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
>>> news:da27e$4405fb35$48f43a91$938@msgid.meganewsser vers.com...
>>>> '99 audi A6 Avant. I asked earlier w/ no response but am getting
>>>> frustrated w/ not being able to mount a dang rear license plate. I just
>>>> bought the car and there are 3(out of 4) screws in the black plastic
>>>> that will not unscrew, the base behind the plastic spins. I have tried
>>>> putting a slotted screwdriver under the head of the screw while
>>>> unscrewing them w/ no luck. The 4th screw is behind the plastic I
>>>> believe as the plastic appears broken out in the area where it should
>>>> be and I can hear something rattling around when shutting the hatch.
>>>> My question is...Do I access the area behind the black plastic by
>>>> removing the inner panel on the hatch? Any BTDT?
>>>> Thanx in advance,
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
03-03-2006, 10:50 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Andy,
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
03-03-2006, 10:50 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Andy,
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
03-03-2006, 10:50 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Andy,
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first thing
I do then is to throw away the gun.......
Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could repair
the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school photocopy
cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate), and JB weld
the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny new licence
plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then install the panel
back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt route - even using
nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending. Since it's pretty well
hidden, you could use anything - except the 2" screws that they guy that had
my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the plate, the stripped plastic
inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> Steve,
> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
> plate? Thanx in advance.
> Andy
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>> Dale,
>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>> always buy for a car I work on.
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Sears
>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of other
>> stainless hardware
>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>> rust
>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
03-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Thanks Steve. I have the repair CD's now, so I know a bit more now on how
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news
t_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news
t_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
03-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Thanks Steve. I have the repair CD's now, so I know a bit more now on how
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
newst_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news
t_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
03-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '99 A6 rear license plate bracket?
Thanks Steve. I have the repair CD's now, so I know a bit more now on how
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
newst_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
to approach repairing myself. Hopefully, I won't have to use it for this
particular promlem anytime soon.
"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
news
t_Nf.5557$972.274208@news20.bellglobal.com.. .> Andy,
> I always ask myself..."what would McGuyver do?" Of course, the first
> thing I do then is to throw away the gun.......
> Depending on the space available behind the plastic panel, you could
> repair the broken mount holes with old credit cards, expired school
> photocopy cards, what have you (you'll never see them behind the plate),
> and JB weld the card on. Then use a new plastic insert and screw a shiny
> new licence plate bolt into it. If you can put the plate on and then
> install the panel back on to the car, then you could go the nut & bolt
> route - even using nylock stainless nuts and bolts....space depending.
> Since it's pretty well hidden, you could use anything - except the 2"
> screws that they guy that had my V8 trunk lid used - screwed through the
> plate, the stripped plastic inserts, and into the trunk sheet metal (duh).
> Now make sure you contemplate McGuyver's solution, and not the
> A-Team's....because you'd first fire up the cutting torch (and pick up the
> gun McGuyver threw away.....).......
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - Face
> 1980 Audi 5k - Hannibal
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Murdoch
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
> "andy" <trifox13atcovaddotnet> wrote in message
> news:d525d$440867e8$44a42d0f$29331@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
>> Steve,
>> When you say JB Weld fasteners into the panel do you mean ss nuts or
>> plastic nuts to the panel or behind the panel and ss bolts to mount the
>> plate? Thanx in advance.
>> Andy
>> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
>> news:ykENf.4337$RM2.574610@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>>> Dale,
>>> Frozen lp screws are fairly common on most cars in the salt belt, and
>>> you'll see more and more frozen screws as the cars get more and more
>>> "plastic-ey". Thing is, with the lp bolts, that most people don't often
>>> remove their lp, and those that do, who are used to fairly well-used
>>> cars, are quite familiar with the ins and outs of rusted fasteners. I
>>> would have just glued (JB Weld) in new fasteners in the panel - you can
>>> get a fair selection of stainless hardware from your local Home Depot.
>>> As to how the panel comes off, I'd refer to the workshop manual that I
>>> always buy for a car I work on.
>>> Cheers!
>>> Steve Sears
>>> 1987 Audi 5kTQ - sporting stainless lp screws....as well as lots of
>>> other stainless hardware
>>> 1980 Audi 5k - stainless hardware holding lp on front.
>>> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - no worries about salt-belt
>>> rust
>>> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>
>
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jahnetik
Audi parts for sale & wanted.
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10-10-2010 12:33 PM
razor913
A4-B6 - (Typ 8E/8H, 2001–2005)
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03-26-2010 04:23 AM
razor913
A4-B6 - (Typ 8E/8H, 2001–2005)
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03-20-2010 04:05 AM
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