89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Guest
Posts: n/a
89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key as
usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
somewhere that I need to check?
Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
ignition switch.
Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
problem.
--
Stephen Clark
89 Audi 100
Houston, Texas USA
usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
somewhere that I need to check?
Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
ignition switch.
Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
problem.
--
Stephen Clark
89 Audi 100
Houston, Texas USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Stephen Clark wrote:
> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key as
> usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
> entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
> Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
> the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
> Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
> when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
> clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
> relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
> burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
>
> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
> somewhere that I need to check?
>
> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
> ignition switch.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
> problem.
>
>
Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is
to check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into
the electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
short is (not a fun job).
I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay
panel under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when
the starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This
splice corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick
check to see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the
jumper location just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage
there should be within a half a volt of what you get at the battery
terminal.
You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
Let us know what you find.
TonyJ
Formerly four T44s
Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Stephen Clark wrote:
> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key as
> usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
> entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
> Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
> the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
> Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
> when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
> clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
> relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
> burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
>
> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
> somewhere that I need to check?
>
> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
> ignition switch.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
> problem.
>
>
Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is
to check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into
the electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
short is (not a fun job).
I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay
panel under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when
the starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This
splice corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick
check to see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the
jumper location just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage
there should be within a half a volt of what you get at the battery
terminal.
You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
Let us know what you find.
TonyJ
Formerly four T44s
Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Stephen Clark wrote:
> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key as
> usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
> entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
> Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
> the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
> Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
> when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
> clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
> relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
> burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
>
> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
> somewhere that I need to check?
>
> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
> ignition switch.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
> problem.
>
>
Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is
to check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into
the electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
short is (not a fun job).
I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay
panel under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when
the starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This
splice corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick
check to see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the
jumper location just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage
there should be within a half a volt of what you get at the battery
terminal.
You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
Let us know what you find.
TonyJ
Formerly four T44s
Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Stephen Clark wrote:
> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key as
> usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker, and the
> entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter, no nothing.
> Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we connected batteries,
> the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the starter anyway - nothing.
> Lights or emergency flashers do not work at all. Dome light comes on faintly
> when you open the door, but soon fades out. When you try to crank it, the
> clock goes dim, but recovers when you stop trying to crank. Battery is
> relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at the jumping post. I do not see any
> burned fuses or relays in the fuse box.
>
> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
> somewhere that I need to check?
>
> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
> ignition switch.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
> problem.
>
>
Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is
to check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into
the electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
short is (not a fun job).
I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay
panel under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when
the starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This
splice corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick
check to see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the
jumper location just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage
there should be within a half a volt of what you get at the battery
terminal.
You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
Let us know what you find.
TonyJ
Formerly four T44s
Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Like Tony said
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Like Tony said
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Like Tony said
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Audi 100 - No Start, Battery OK, What next?
Like Tony said
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
I would charge up and test existing battery since it is too low to crank
over the Audi. Then deactivate the alarm, I assume this is done by
unlocking the driver's door. I am personally not fond of "jumping" the
battery since it can put a shock on your system and may not work if your
battery is too weak and the cables are not heavy enough.
You will need to look for electrical drains that caused the battery to be
weak. Maybe a bad radiator fan controller which kept the fan on after you
stopped the vehicle.
Just trying to get it started first to make sure nothing is wrong there and
then start looking for why the battery drained down.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Tony" <tonyj@visi.com> wrote in message
news:135a5ok6c4dpa69@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Stephen Clark wrote:
>> I jumped in the old Audi tonight at the grocery store, and turned the key
>> as usual. Only heard a faint "pop" that sounded like a circuit breaker,
>> and the entire electrical system is dead, no warning lights, no starter,
>> no nothing. Just to be sure, I had the car jumped. As soon as we
>> connected batteries, the alarm horn began going off, but I tried the
>> starter anyway - nothing. Lights or emergency flashers do not work at
>> all. Dome light comes on faintly when you open the door, but soon fades
>> out. When you try to crank it, the clock goes dim, but recovers when you
>> stop trying to crank. Battery is relatively new, and shows 11.8 volts at
>> the jumping post. I do not see any burned fuses or relays in the fuse
>> box.
>>
>> What am I missing? Is there a master circuit breaker or fusible link
>> somewhere that I need to check?
>>
>> Could it be the ignition switch? The car has the original starter and
>> ignition switch.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting this
>> problem.
>>
>>
> Checking the ignition switch is a good idea. When you are doing that
> remove the electrical part of the switch (about a foot back of the
> instrument cluster) and try to turn it with a flat screwdriver. This is to
> check if the crappy pot metal tab inside the ignition that fits into the
> electrical switch has broken (the all do sooner or later).
>
> Other ideas Remove the positive battery terminal and check if it is
> shorted to ground. If it is start following wires to find out where the
> short is (not a fun job).
>
> I seem to remember that there is a controller (probably in the relay panel
> under the drivers dash) that shuts down all unneeded circuits when the
> starter is engaged. This is to provide max power to the starter.
>
> Another thing to check is in the passenger side kick panel. The positive
> lead from the battery in the back has a splice in there where the main
> power splits for the fuse box and relays and for the starter. This splice
> corrodes over time and can cause all sorts of problems. A quick check to
> see if this may be the problem is to check voltage on the jumper location
> just behind the passenger side headlight. The voltage there should be
> within a half a volt of what you get at the battery terminal.
>
> You might want to search on the AudiWorld T44 forum for other ideas.
> http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
>
> Don't let the V8 worry you. that is the right place for the I5s as well.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> TonyJ
> Formerly four T44s
> Currently '04 A4 TQ6M
Guest
Posts: n/a
You guys are on the right track, thanks!
Checked the voltage at the jumper post this morning, and it's 12.45 volts.
BUT, I opened the back doors to remove the battery from under the seat, and
checked the voltage at the battery before disconnecting it: 5.5 volts! How
could just opening the door bring the battery down this far? There is also a
faint buzzing relay that fades out shortly after you open the door. The
resistance from the positive battery cable to ground is about 1.8K ohms, so
it is not shorted, Tony. Also the battery voltage is the same at the
battery terminals, and at the jumping post, so I don't think it's the
splice. Can't check the ignition switch until I get a good battery in
place.
Took the battery to the auto parts store where I got it only six months
ago - their load test says battery is discharged. They said the battery is
needing a charge before they can test it again for warranty purposes.
But it is my feeling that there is a sudden, massive load on the battery,
and Steve Sears on the Audiworld forum came up with a theory that a shorted
starter fits all the facts.
Unfortunately, my trusted Audi mechanic will be out of town until Tuesday,
so I can't get the car to him for diagnosis until then.
I am currently trying to get hold of a battery charger that works, since
mine just blew up! If not, I'll take it back to the auto parts store and
have them charge it up, and test it again.
I certainly appreciate your quick and useful replies!
BUT, I opened the back doors to remove the battery from under the seat, and
checked the voltage at the battery before disconnecting it: 5.5 volts! How
could just opening the door bring the battery down this far? There is also a
faint buzzing relay that fades out shortly after you open the door. The
resistance from the positive battery cable to ground is about 1.8K ohms, so
it is not shorted, Tony. Also the battery voltage is the same at the
battery terminals, and at the jumping post, so I don't think it's the
splice. Can't check the ignition switch until I get a good battery in
place.
Took the battery to the auto parts store where I got it only six months
ago - their load test says battery is discharged. They said the battery is
needing a charge before they can test it again for warranty purposes.
But it is my feeling that there is a sudden, massive load on the battery,
and Steve Sears on the Audiworld forum came up with a theory that a shorted
starter fits all the facts.
Unfortunately, my trusted Audi mechanic will be out of town until Tuesday,
so I can't get the car to him for diagnosis until then.
I am currently trying to get hold of a battery charger that works, since
mine just blew up! If not, I'll take it back to the auto parts store and
have them charge it up, and test it again.
I certainly appreciate your quick and useful replies!
