JPF,
Hmm....good to know since I have a set of doors from a '91 200 with the
flush handles I was planning on swapping to. Oh well, no alarm, no
worries - I'll just leave the doors unlocked - or get around to installing
that remote lock/unlocking kit I got at Wally Mart that has been sitting in
the garage....
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - appearance change in the works
1980 Audi 5k - has a cool Type 43 Turbo chin spoiler - ooooh!!!
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - tricked out with headlight
eyebrows
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"JPF" <frickjp@zzzzzzzzzzzz.net> wrote in message
news:agtfqvgkrgmpanfkf4g9nnnelue1rba621@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:44:28 -0500, "Steve Sears"
> <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote:
> >>Snip<<
>
> > Actually, what
> >breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock - weak cast part on
> >the back of the cylinder is to blame there - stamped replacements are
> >available.
> ><snip>
>
> Sure, but then the cheap plastic teeth fall off the stamped piece, and
> the alarm doesn't work!
> Gimme' the old handles any day. They bust once a year, but you don't
> have to pull the door panel to fix it!
>
>
> >Thanks!
> >Steve Sears
> >1987 Audi 5kTQ - Type 44
> >1980 Audi 5k - Type 43
> >1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Type F800
> >(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
> >
>

 

"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message news:<C3Opb.332$143.21663@news20.bellglobal.com>.. .
> "C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> <snip>
> > This is the one correction I wanted to make in your post. You're
> > dating yourself, Sears. The *early* Type 44 (and all early- and
> > mid-'80s VWs & Audis)door handles sucked and broke by design. The
> > later ones (this is an '89 he's looking at) have the *New!*
> > *Improved!* door handles. It is, IME, no longer an issue.

> Hahaha...good thing I didn't start talking about DKW's, huh? Actually, what
> breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock - weak cast part on
> the back of the cylinder is to blame there - stamped replacements are
> available.

Come to think of it, you're right! I've replaced a couple of those.
But, technically, it *isn't* the door *handle*, is it? ;^)

I guess I overlooked it because the redesigned parts *fixed* the
problem while they never did change that damnable potmetal mounting
point on the older ones.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; fixed that, too.)

 

Hey Steve, did you lock either of the differentials when you drove
around in the message you posted earlier? I'm a little worried about
locking the center dif and doing some damage if I need to turn too
sharply at any real speed.
ps- drop me a line at me e-mail addy. You gave me some advice a while
back about the Q chip and I need the guys link sent to me again...

Steve Sears wrote:
> Bill,
> There are different things that can be done to modify troublesome systems in
> the Type 44:
> Hydraulics - the pressure accumulator, which is charged with nitrogen, loses
> its charge over time and causes problems - you can get a rebuilt one that
> makes it rechargeable (there is a guy in Southern Ontario doing some - the
> procedure was outlined in Audifans) or you can buy a new one - way more
> expensive but will probably last longer than you have the car. I have also
> heard of people refitting a vacuum assist system from an earlier (?) Type 44
> to eliminate the "bomb" altogether. Doing that also eliminates the use of
> the big, leak prone power steering pump that charges the brake accumulator
> as well as the rack.
> Headlights - the current passing through the turn signal stalk assembly is
> way too much when using things like flash to pass - installing relays to
> switch power from the headlights is not too difficult, and will reduce the
> future need for electric troubleshooting here.
> As soon as the snow starts _really_ falling, you'll appreciate the quattro
> system on the car. In the largest winter storm last year, with about 12" of
> snow on the road (more in drifts) I was the only car moving on some roads -
> even my boss in his big Dorf F250 diesel 4x4 went home early - I had to make
> some deliveries in-town and was blasting past minivans, cars and SUV's stuck
> and ditched all over the place - you would have loved the looks I got. I'm
> going to get a window sticker that says "I only dragrace in 1 foot of snow"
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1987 Audi 5kTQ
> 1980 Audi 5k
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
> (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
> "Bill Graham" <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:BBC8847F.2041B%whgraham@nc.rr.com...
>
>>Thanks one and all for your comments.
>>
>>I spoke to two local euro car mechanics today.
>>
>>#1 said: don't get it, you won't be happy. They will take all your money.
>>Great for him, but not for me. He said get a Saab 900 with a good
>>transmission or a VW instead.
>>
>>Problem is, I have a car with a lot of problems that I hate to drive. The
>>Audi I am looking at has had a great deal of money put into it already,
>
> but
>
>>currently has no problems. I'm trying to buy more time and enjoy what I
>>drive. I've been one of those out of work technology execs since last
>>January. I do not want a car payment, and the money I have can cover this
>>car and then some. The way the car has presented itself to me at a time in
>>need feels somewhat like providence and fortuitous.
>>
>>#2 said: all euro cars have their own special problems with which they
>
> take
>
>>your money. Audi's have hydraulic problems, electrical problems, and
>>AC/heating problems. Saab's have transmission problems and so on. A Toyota
>>Camry doesn't have problems, but they are like driving a boring appliance.
>>He said that US cars and Euro cars are not that different in parts costs.
>>
>>When you fix something in one of these, does it STAY fixed? Are there
>>upgrades (i.e. Hydraulics) that can be made when doing repairs that are
>>better than standard OEM parts replacements that increase the life of the
>>repair?
>>
>>At the end of the day I'd basically be trading a 96 Ford with mounting
>>problems, for an 89 Audi that currently has no problems, and I'd have a
>>little cash left over.
>>
>>Sincerely, Thank you all. If I get it, I'll try to grab the Bentley manual
>>(a little more pricey than a Chilton's).
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>>Bill,
>>>There's a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen's (Audi parts
>
> vendor)
>
>>>web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro:
>>>
>
> http://www.audiquattroparts.com/tech...0checklist.htm
>
>>>As for web resources:
>>>www.audifans.com - mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here -
>
> searching
>
>>>the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and
>>>troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don't find an answer,
>
> then
>
>>>post a question to the group.
>>>A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase"
>
> to
>
>>>simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff.
>>>www.audiworld.com - the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum)
>
> discusses
>
>>>Type 44 stuff. I find that there's a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and
>
> fluff
>
>>>(the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some
>
> is
>
>>>like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what's been put on the
>>>person's car) going on at Audiworld (read CR's posting about the
>
> respective
>
>>>German marque clubs) - As a Type 44 owner there's just some things that
>
> I
>
>>>(and many others) curse Audi for - like fragile doorhandle parts (search
>
> for
>
>>>"Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake
>>>Bomb"), etc.
>>>All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It
>
> had
>
>>>countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super
>>>frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect - like a
>
> blown
>
>>>headgasket and cooling system problems - I now have an excellent daily
>>>driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on.
>>>Keep JPF's contact info if you get the car - he's a good guy to know in
>
> this
>
>>>biz.
>>>For new parts - www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others
>>>dealers are on the web. For used parts - check www.car-part.com or with
>>>specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com
>>>Cheers!
>>>Steve Sears
>>>1987 Audi 5kTQ
>>>1980 Audi 5k
>>>1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
>>>(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>>
>>>
>>>"Bill Graham" <whgraham@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
>>>news:BBC7D08C.203D7%whgraham@nc.rr.com...
>>>
>>>>Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But
>
> if
>
>>>>I'm going to have problems, I'd rather it be with something other than
>
> a 4
>
>>>>cyl. Ford Contour.
>>>>
>>>>The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn't, I wouldn't
>
> care
>
>>>>that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never
>>>>worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00
>>>>starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from
>
> NC
>
>>>>to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun
>
> to
>
>>>>drive. This car seems like a good choice for that.
>>>>
>>>>The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife.
>>>>
>>>>What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks again,
>>>>
>>>>Bill Graham
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Not a bad car, but it's no problem-free ride. It's old.
>>>>>The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are
>>>>>usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All
>>>>>5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I've had to replace the drivers
>>>>>lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.)
>>>>>At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor
>>>>>repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump
>>>>>can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.)
>>>>>Driveline major is very reliable.
>>>>>I just bought one, '89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a
>>>>>trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator,
>>>>>and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror
>>>>>doean't heat, I have a new glass, but haven't stuck it in yet. It's
>>>>>got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600.
>>>>>If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com .
>>>>>This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance.
>>>>>Also, you'd want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a
>>>>>little more steam. It's a half-hour job, and a whole new car.
>>>>>
>>>>>Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good.
>>>>>
>>>>>There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 04:35:03 GMT, Bill Graham <whgraham@nc.rr.com>
>>>>>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hello,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I am considering buying the car above, '89 200 Quattro Turbo with the
>>>
>>>cold
>>>
>>>>>>weather package................
>>>>
>>>
>
>

 

AMR <arodino@att.net> wrote in message news:<iRWvb.100172$Ec1.4615533@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
> Hey Steve, did you lock either of the differentials when you drove
> around in the message you posted earlier? I'm a little worried about
> locking the center dif and doing some damage if I need to turn too
> sharply at any real speed.

I am not S.S., but I can tell you with assurance that you should
*never* lock the diff when there is any significant traction. If your
'89 is the same system as my '90TQ (I believe it is.), the lock only
functions up to about 15 mph in any event. It is just enough to get
you moving under the worst traction conditions and it then
automatically reverts to its usual 'open' settings, retaining AWD at
all times. The earlier Quattros had manually-controlled center and
center/rear diff locks that could be left engaged all the time if you
were dumb enough to do so. It would wreak havoc on the tires, but
I've never heard of a driveline failure from it. The Quattro
drivetrains are remarkably durable but it's still a good idea not to
abuse them.

In years of ownership in Wisconsin, I've only seriously switched the
diff lock on a handful of times (the BMW club ice driving school
doesn't count) and even then had only marginal success. The reason is
simple: most of the time when you manage to get a Quattro stuck in the
snow, it's not because of the surface; it's the depth of the snow -
'bellypanning' the car. If the wheels aren't *touching* the ground
with enough force, it doesn't matter how many are locked. Always
remember to shovel deep snow from under the *center* of the car and
*leave it* under the wheels.

When you're done memorizing that, you need to learn how to trim
previous posts when replying ...
--
C.R. Krieger
Been there; done that.

 

Hi AMR,
(Sorry - I'm on a full time site and haven't been in the office of late)
Yes, I had the diffs locked - I know, much to the chagrin of CR - I usually
lock the center in lousy weather on the highway - rain storms, snow, etc. -
but take it off on the slower stuff, street corners are no fun with the
center locked - and brutal with both center and rear ("Hey, what's wrong
with my car???? oooooh, yeah. clickclick."). In talking at our local Audi
pub night - one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track
racing and locking the diffs - he said that he used to lock all the diffs on
the track - dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned -
it's a track car and the tires get replaced regularly). That day I did most
of my driving with all 4 locked - of course in the corners I was spinning
bigtime - but I meant to do that - It was a blast. To prepare for winter, I
usually take the car to the local grocery store when we have our first real
snowfall and do about a half hour of slides, spins, etc. (entertain the
bored cashiers...) BTW, the '87 will disengage the ABS when the diffs are
locked, but hey, the ABS doesn't work on my car anyway.
On the other stuff - http://www.homestead.com/Ben_Swann/boostin.html - there
ya go.
Cheers!

--
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - qlcc in, V8 taillights on, eurolights soon
1980 Audi 5k - um, does a Turbo Chin Spoiler count as a performance upgrade?
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - with Hi-Performance seat
covers.
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

 

"Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message news:<aO9xb.13072$Eq1.1254953@news20.bellglobal.co m>...
> Hi AMR,
> I usually
> lock the center in lousy weather on the highway - rain storms, snow, etc. -
> but take it off on the slower stuff, street corners are no fun with the
> center locked - and brutal with both center and rear ("Hey, what's wrong
> with my car???? oooooh, yeah. clickclick.").

Actually, in crappy conditions, I used to lock the center diff on my
old 4000Q as a way of getting some cheap ABS benefits. It was truly
rare when I bothered to lock the rear as well and I normally had to
shovel the damn thing out anyway. >:^(

> In talking at our local Audi
> pub night - one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track
> racing and locking the diffs - he said that he used to lock all the diffs on
> the track - dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned -
> it's a track car and the tires get replaced regularly).

When you've got enough power to spin a wheel if the diffs are
unlocked, then it's perfectly alright to lock them. I'd like to know
what that feels like ... ;^)

Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the '89 (like the '90 200TQ)
diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen)
*automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the '87
might not have this feature, as my '86 4KQ did not nor did my dad's
'87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the '89 redesign.
--
C.R. Krieger
Been there; done that

 

"C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a8a578a8.0312010944.15f941c3@posting.google.c om...
> > In talking at our local Audi
> > pub night - one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track
> > racing and locking the diffs - he said that he used to lock all the
diffs on
> > the track - dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned -
> > it's a track car and the tires get replaced regularly).
>
> When you've got enough power to spin a wheel if the diffs are
> unlocked, then it's perfectly alright to lock them. I'd like to know
> what that feels like ... ;^)
Yep, if it was Sprongl, then they'd be talking about the S1 that is at
Shokan now - I saw it on a trailer travelling along the 401 to a rally
once - I was paying more attention to the 4000q that was following the
convoy, as the car on the trailer looked [shudder] like Mustang with some
kind of body kit. It wasn't until near my exit that I noticed that it was
actually an S1 - darn.
>
> Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the '89 (like the '90 200TQ)
> diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen)
> *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the '87
> might not have this feature, as my '86 4KQ did not nor did my dad's
> '87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the '89 redesign.
I dunno about that CR - maybe JPF could verify that? Audiworld's model
guide shows that the '89 200 had a " Lockable rear differential with
automatic disengagement" - is that what you are referring to?
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

 

Yup, that's it. '89-'91 100/200 with the "diff" switch below the
parking brake. Unless, of course, you yank the rear seat and cut the
white/blue wire. it's the speed signal. The factory decided that the
diff unlocks and re-engages the ABS when you hit around 15Mph. Cut
the wire, and she stays locked until you unlock it. If you're horking
through the goop, the spinning wheels can easily hit 15. With the
Torsen centre, it's just as locked as the '87 with the manual locking
****. 'Course, nothing beats the V8 with Torsen rear and fully
locked, clutched centre for pure get up and go. JPF

On Mon, 1 Dec 2003 15:19:31 -0500, "Steve Sears"
<steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote:


>>Snip<<

 

My '91 100q spd automatically disengages the center lock when speed
exceeds 15 mph. A friend had the '89 tq and I am quite sure it was the
same. (Several Audis later he just got his '04 S4 4.2 V8 / 6 speed ...
now that IS a car!!)

> Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the '89 (like the '90 200TQ)
> diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen)
> *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the '87
> might not have this feature, as my '86 4KQ did not nor did my dad's
> '87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the '89 redesign.
> --
> C.R. Krieger
> Been there; done that

 

My '89 200 TQ is the same as well.

> My '91 100q spd automatically disengages the center lock when speed
> exceeds 15 mph. A friend had the '89 tq and I am quite sure it was the
> same. (Several Audis later he just got his '04 S4 4.2 V8 / 6 speed ...
> now that IS a car!!)
>
>> Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the '89 (like the '90 200TQ)
>> diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen)
>> *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the '87
>> might not have this feature, as my '86 4KQ did not nor did my dad's
>> '87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the '89 redesign.
>> --
>> C.R. Krieger
>> Been there; done that
>