1.8t engine sludge question.
01-28-2010, 06:01 PM
#11
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
This 2.7T is over 100K KM and has regular synthetic oil changes with zero sludge accumulation.
IMHO this confirms that regular synthetic oil changes especially on Turbo & Twin Turbo Audi Engines helps prevent sludge.
IMHO this confirms that regular synthetic oil changes especially on Turbo & Twin Turbo Audi Engines helps prevent sludge.
Last edited by K04-S4; 01-28-2010 at 06:07 PM.
01-28-2010, 07:04 PM
#13
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
But evennturely Audi or the other german car after 1996 should use Syn Oil with regular interval, because high compression and high temperature.
01-29-2010, 09:48 AM
#14
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
I'll have to look around for sludge pics... none of my Audi engines have any sludge!
That assumes regular interval oil changes. Start changing oil every 15K KM with regular oil like some suggest and see how fast sludge accumulates, regardless if it is a I4 / V6 / V8.
The I4 holds less oil than the larger engines. For 1.8T's strongly suggest to use the oversized oil filter that Audi 1.8T TSB now recommends due to increase oil capacity.
Turbo engines are typically lower compression compared to non Turbo engines. Synthetic in the Turbo engines helps with the high temps and also by not coking the oil as easily in the Turbo oil lines (typically caused by hot Turbo engine shutdowns).
The I4 holds less oil than the larger engines. For 1.8T's strongly suggest to use the oversized oil filter that Audi 1.8T TSB now recommends due to increase oil capacity.
Turbo engines are typically lower compression compared to non Turbo engines. Synthetic in the Turbo engines helps with the high temps and also by not coking the oil as easily in the Turbo oil lines (typically caused by hot Turbo engine shutdowns).
01-29-2010, 10:53 AM
#15
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
I've rebuilt quite a few VW/AUDI engines, they basicly same. 1.8, 2.0 after 200k always have sludge, some cause hydraulic lifter faiurel. And V6,V8, V10 much less due to more oil pathes,
The engine internal are suppose to look shine metal color, not yellow or brown. When the yellow/brown stuff stick on internal enigne, that's called oil residue, when it's getting thicker and darker, it's called sludge, when sludge thick enough to block your oil path, your engine will got big trouble. But most engine design will let this happen at less critial location, but you still can find some on high temp dead corner.
And most Germany car's compression above 10, even 11, and America/Japan car only around 9. That's called higher compression. This make engine hotter than A/J cars. Also make their engine gaskets have much shorter life than A/J cars, and needing Syn Oil for worser working environment much more than A/J car. For audi/vw, whatever 1.8-4.2. they share basic same design, like pistons, rings, gaskets, combustion chamber, material; just quite small diff on size. and whatever turbo or not, they have similar compression ratio, it's not necessary compromise compression ratio for turbo. turbo develop more horse power, also working in crucial environment, it's indeed need Syn oil.
The engine internal are suppose to look shine metal color, not yellow or brown. When the yellow/brown stuff stick on internal enigne, that's called oil residue, when it's getting thicker and darker, it's called sludge, when sludge thick enough to block your oil path, your engine will got big trouble. But most engine design will let this happen at less critial location, but you still can find some on high temp dead corner.
And most Germany car's compression above 10, even 11, and America/Japan car only around 9. That's called higher compression. This make engine hotter than A/J cars. Also make their engine gaskets have much shorter life than A/J cars, and needing Syn Oil for worser working environment much more than A/J car. For audi/vw, whatever 1.8-4.2. they share basic same design, like pistons, rings, gaskets, combustion chamber, material; just quite small diff on size. and whatever turbo or not, they have similar compression ratio, it's not necessary compromise compression ratio for turbo. turbo develop more horse power, also working in crucial environment, it's indeed need Syn oil.
01-29-2010, 11:05 AM
#16
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
Stock compression ratio for the 2.7T Twin Turbo is 9.3 : 1 and 1.8T MY2K is 9.5 : 1
This is lower compression than Audi non Turbo engines by design.
In pics above, the honey brown color with no black sludge deposits is normal and what you expect to see inside a well maintained engine.
Post your engine rebuild pics of sludge inside engine!
This is lower compression than Audi non Turbo engines by design.
In pics above, the honey brown color with no black sludge deposits is normal and what you expect to see inside a well maintained engine.
Post your engine rebuild pics of sludge inside engine!
Last edited by K04-S4; 01-29-2010 at 07:15 PM.
01-30-2010, 09:42 PM
#17
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
Sludgy due to poor oil maintenance
2.7T Replace Cam Adjuster Gaskets at 188K KMs, engine well oiled & identify a tiny bit of sludge
Valve Cover easily wipes clean when engine well oiled
2.7T Replace Cam Adjuster Gaskets at 188K KMs, engine well oiled & identify a tiny bit of sludge
Valve Cover easily wipes clean when engine well oiled
Last edited by K04-S4; 01-30-2010 at 10:03 PM.
02-01-2010, 10:51 AM
#19
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
The low oil pressure display symbol is managed by the Engine ECU. If pressure is low then the symbol will appear regardless of any "reset". Also check if oil pressure sender unit is defective as it can cause false trigger and display the low oil pressure symbol when in fact oil pressure is good. If there is any question regarding the sender, you could replace it as it is a fairly inexpensive part.
Did you look inside your oil fill cap to see if there is any visible sludge accumulating?
Did you look inside your oil fill cap to see if there is any visible sludge accumulating?
02-01-2010, 06:26 PM
#20
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Re: 1.8t engine sludge question.
Hey davidj24,
I had the same problem.
Fearing the dreaded sludge story, don't panic.
I changed my oil pressure sender.
Still had intermittant light.
Then jiggled my plug on sender, BINGO! Oil pressure light!
Loose connection.
Tape secured the wires and plug to sender. Not seen a light since (10k ago).
By the way, with each synthetic change, I substitute 1 quart of oil for 1 quart of Rislone oil additive.
Breaks down existing sludge, and prevents new.
When I first started using it I was skeptical, but my used oil filters told the story.
Before Rislone, normal dirty filter.
2nd and third Rislone change, filthy, dark brown filter.
Now each change, relatively clean!
Also, I vent my crankcase into a catch pot. You should see the volatile residue crap in the catch pot, that was previously being sucked into my intake.
Catch pot pics if you need them.
I had the same problem.
Fearing the dreaded sludge story, don't panic.
I changed my oil pressure sender.
Still had intermittant light.
Then jiggled my plug on sender, BINGO! Oil pressure light!
Loose connection.
Tape secured the wires and plug to sender. Not seen a light since (10k ago).
By the way, with each synthetic change, I substitute 1 quart of oil for 1 quart of Rislone oil additive.
Breaks down existing sludge, and prevents new.
When I first started using it I was skeptical, but my used oil filters told the story.
Before Rislone, normal dirty filter.
2nd and third Rislone change, filthy, dark brown filter.
Now each change, relatively clean!
Also, I vent my crankcase into a catch pot. You should see the volatile residue crap in the catch pot, that was previously being sucked into my intake.
Catch pot pics if you need them.
