So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

So here's my deal, I bought this car a 1998 A4 B5 1.8TQ for 1000can from Merritt. Runs good, drives good :) However, before mods I would like everything to be in proper working order and if I can upgrade as I do any repair I will for sure.

Things I know need attention, some cosmetic and some mechanical. I haven't been able to get the car to my shop yet to do a full inspection:

- I am hopeing the oil cooler is the only reason there is oil in with the antifreeze. Doesn't smoke, make funny sounds or overheat at all. Just oil in the antifreeze is all.
- The front tires are worn out on the edges. So it needs new front tires. The lady said they had the front arms done already. Might be true, maybe not. Hopeing it's just tires and alignment.
- Front driver seat need to have a cut fixed, this is just kind of an eyesore for such an awesome black leather interior.
- Need to replace the LH rear taillight assy and replace some bulbs on the tail.
- There are two dents on the car I will fix, on the lh rear door and a small ding on the lh front fender.
- A thouall cleaning of the engine bay and interior is neccessary also before I will even drive it, haha.
- Royal purple oil change and full coolant flush along with regular maintainance stuff.

Things I would like to do:

- Stage 1, not 1+ cause I think being a 98 dbc I don't get an option for 1+
- Port match my intake and exhaust manifolds
- Look into better intake air setup
- Custom built high flow 2.5in exhaust with twin tips
- Some kind of suspension work, maybe coilover setup?
- 18in rim and tire setup, thinkin black rims with blackout glass
- Body kit, not crazy just sleek and sexy
- One peice front headlights


I am a mechanic by trade and work in a full machine shop that specializes in rebuilds and performance engines. Also my bosses brother owns a diesel shop and is into turbo stuff big time. In the long run I would like to do a full engine build and bigger turbo setup. Right now I want a lil extra ponies, awesome handling and style.

If anyone has suggestions them em fly, I'm all ears (eyes, lol)

Here is a pic of what I am starting with and one that I would like it to resemble:cheers:

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Just got back from driving the car home from Merritt. Approx. 90km from where I live. Drove pretty good with both front tires being bald, got a vibration I think from the front tires and needs frontend work or an alignment. Good power and everything works well. later this week I will take it down to my shop and do a full inspection on the car.

WHOOO-HOOO I gotta A4 in my driveway :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

you realize the car you want to look like is a B6 model and you have a b5 right?

if you want to look like a b6 you got your work cut out for ya

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

My suggestion would be to perform all the necessary maintenance that is needed first to get the car caught up and potentially turn this great deal into a great and reliable transportation. I suggest starting with the most obvious, the timing belt! While you're there, you might want to go ahead and replace the cam seals, H20 pump, roller seals and whatever else you deem fit to replace/repair while the assembly is out. This could be the difference between a great deal to a great big pile of junk!!!

Second on the list would be to run a complete diagnostics of the system with a VAG-COM. Then I would do a compression test to confirm whether or not the car's head gasket's potentially blown. Sometime through out the first few steps, I would throw in some better set of tyres. Just in case I needed to run to the parts store, I would atleast be safer driving the new car with better than the bald ones on it. This would probably solve the issue of the vibration in the steering. Then the list goes on!

I'm glad that another Audi had been given a second lease on life and is now being properly attended to by a mechanically inclined enthusiast. I hope to see the transformation (with pics!) roll along and wishes the new owner success in this project. I hope the car brings you much pleasure and the least headaches in the future! Congratulations on a fantastic buy and may you have a great experience with her!!!

Don't forget to check out the Maintenance section of the forum for some great DIY threads! Maybe during your restoration process, you could take the time to document your build and take some photos to add to our DIY threads. Welcome and happy motoring! :cheers:

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Thanks guys, The timing belt and tensioner was just done on the car. Very good ideas for comp test and tires and also maintainance. Those were on my immediate list of things to do. I will definately post pics as I go also.

Will my OTC Pegyisis scanner work for diag on this car or do I have to use a VAG-COM??

THANKS :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

looks good man besides the front tire being flat in the pic. =)
love to hear the progress as you work away on it! APR stage 1 that bad boy!

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

A4rob -- I am hoping the body kit and single piece lights can help me achieve a simalar look to the car as the one I showed. Need wheels to. It won't be the same but simalar.

From what I have read in here searching I will need to solder a chip in the comp right? And before I do this mod should I do my exhaust and porting work also? Any other things I should do that will be fairly cheap?

Oh ya as for exhaust my local shop will build me a custom one, should I go 3in or 2.5in and what exactly is a test pipe? Does that eliminate the cat? If so will my check engine light be permantly on?

As for tires I have a set of new winters on rims for it, however I am not driving the car right now. It is in build phase 1(repair). I have a 2001 Honda Accord I'm driving right now till it sells and then I can pile money into this project :)

With a chip, port matching and exhaust does anybody have a rough idea on HP gains?

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

HERE is a thread that might be of interest to you if you don't want to deal with modding to fit a 1pc headlight.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

THANK YOU mksu19... that link is perfect. :D Almost exactly what I was looking for.

What kind of mod has to be done for one piece? I am very skilled with fabrication and bodywork also so I might still do it one peice style. Definatly gonna go with HID thou in proper housing of course.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

The ones I used were 2pcs Helix/Depo Ecodes that required no trimming to the fenders whatsoever. The look of the 1pc with the fit of the 2pcs! But if you insist on using the 1pc headlights, the picture below shows the driver-side fender with the corner light removed. The part of the fender that is hidden by the original corner lights needs to be modified to allow the new lights to fit. Specifically, most of this metal must be removed (by cutting or grinding).

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/ec_un_no_corner2.jpg

Here you can clearly see the part of the fender that has been cut.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/ec_un_fender_cut.jpg

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Your exhaust piping size should depend on your final power goals. If you're seriously going to build a 600HP beast, go with 3" now, rather than having to upgrade it again later. A test-pipe is a term for putting a straight pipe in place of the cat. If you're going to do this, find a tune for your car that eliminates the O2 CEL that you'll get from eliminating the cat..



Port matching will likely do nothing at this power level - I'd skip it for real head-work and large-port manifolds when you start the final build. A chip and turbo-back should net ~50-60 Peak HP, and ~100 Peak lb-ft, along with a solid boost in drivability throughout the range. You might want to have a spare Diverter Valve (DV) around in case you pop that old one. For an OEM upgrade, guys often use the 710N ones from the 225HP TTs.

An air intake can net some gain at higher power levels, but will not do much but change the sound on a Stage 1-2 car.

I'm not sure if all 1998 1.8T A4s had AEB heads, but I do know that some did - you should check if you do. The AEB head is a huge advantage in airflow (VAG heads flow notoriously poor) when you start the heavy mod'ing! When you're facing the engine bay, there is a little tab on the front, right corner of the head that will state a three-letter cylinder-head code.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Thanks again mksu19 for that info, think I might go with the ones like your car has. I'll look alittle more into the one peice stuff but that mod is aways away for me right now. Have to deal with the maintainance stuff and get it reliable.

Hi Cheeba, glad you found me. I have put some serious thought into this build and since it is a tiptronic car I will probably only do lightish mods to this one. Been told the tiptronic can only handle 300hp. So unless I find out how to build it into a killer tranny then I won't be looking for 600hp on this car. My 86 4000cs Q was a 5spd and I loved it, god I miss that car :( I will hopefully get this car built nicely and make it super reliable with a touch on performance. Then later on find a B6 or B7 chassis (maybe even a 4000??) with a stick to build into a monster :) Thanks for the tip on me not to waste my time porting also, and the divertor mod :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

You're welcome! By the way, I got mine from an Ebay retailer. I believe his store is called Eurosport Garage or something. Mine cost no more than $225 Shipped and duties paid. Only waited 3 days for it since it came from California. I'm really happy with mine and I think you would too if you decide to get these. I was set to get an OEM S4 headlights but decided against them due to the mod/price thing. Anyways, whatever route you go through, please do post them up! ;)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Oh I will post them up for sure :) That seems like a fair price for the headlights< did that include the signals also?

I might have some pics up later tonight, right now I have the interior gutted and fully cleaning it. And going to get the driver seat fixed. Basically free for me to do so why not, hahaha I am basically doing everything I can do that is cheap or free right now while I wait for my Honda Accord to sell.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Yes it came with the clear corners.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

to upgrade your tranny that has a tip, i believe you should look into level10?? (someone correct me on this)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

What is level 10???

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Can I upgrade somhow to have paddles on the steering wheel?

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

mksu19----that is a good deal for projectors with clear sigs. definatly looking into that.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Just doing some necessary housework, hahaha. Hard to tell by the pics but I think there was a choclate milkshake spilled over the console and carpet. YUCK!!!

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http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...118011957a.jpg

Looks almost brand new after a tooth brush and some detailing work< I also scrubbed and cleaned the carpet.

This is the shop I work in, this is just one part of the machine shop I work in.

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

I want that shop!!

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Did a compression test on the car today, here is the results:

Cylinder #1 188
Cylinder #2 180
Cylinder #3 175
Cylinder #4 190

This is what the spark plugs look like, pretty good

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...0119011938.jpg

I also found out that it is a AEB head :)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...0119011951.jpg

Also as a bonus I found out that it has a K&N filter, NICE!!!

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Thanks "vgourus" about that tranny level 10 site. Something to think about for sure if my trans does blow up. A 5spd swap would probably cost the same as putting in a bullitproof Tip.

My Audi got postposed for a few days while I put a new motor in my Honda :( I just put a used motor in it 3000kms ago and it started knocking. Warranty covered it and they gave me another motor so I am putting that in right now. Seriously sucks!!!! But if it's a good motor I can sell it and put some cash into my Audi and get it rollin :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

So I got the Honda all done and it is selling on Monday. Time to order parts and do some maintainance on the car.

Step 1: Rh inner tierod end. At this time I want to lower the car so I don't have to get an alignment twice. Any suggestions on spring and amount of drop??? I have noticed everyone using H&R... what about Nuespeed and Koni etc...

Step 2: Front brake pads and was thinking of upgrading the rotors. Any suggestions on performance rotors and pads would be nice.

Step 3: Exhaust work... Hmmm 2.5in or 3in???? This will be a custom exhaust with future mods to come in performance so I would like to keep that in mind so I don't have to do it again.

Step 4: Regular maintanance... all fluids flushed and new.

Step 5: LET'S ROLL OUT!!!!!! HAHAHAHA

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

You could swap in a manual for waaaay less than a full Level 10 build would cost. I'll say it again: I don't know why you're wasting your time with a full-out build on a craptastic tiptronic...

That said :D:

1.) A cup kit is a horrible idea for the level of build you're proposing - do it right and at least get some decent coilovers. I'm not saying that you have to spend $5K on some remote reservoir Ohlins, but at least get a set of Bilstein PSS9s or something. I wouldn't even run a cup-kit on an otherwise stock car...

2.) If you're serious about your power goals, it's a good idea to have appropriate brakes. Now is the time to toss on a BBK (Big-Brake Kit). You'll also need high-end tires to maintain good braking traction. If you're not going to go BBK, just 'upgrading' the rotors won't do much other than reduce weight and possibly increase brake cooling (depends on the rotors). I do recommend shedding weight from the rotors - it will increase performance noticeably - but the pads and fluid are going to be what increases braking power and reduces fade.

3.) Definitely 3" or even 3.5"! 2.5" will start to give you problems at maybe 300hp. The last thing you want is $100 worth of piping restricting 50Whp, and melting turbos because of high EGTs due to excessive backpressure.

4.) Good thinking. Not many people do this, but for every used car I buy, I drain all the fluids and replace with those of my choice.

By the way, the K&N filter is not going to benefit your car any. Except blow-up MAFs if you oil it improperly.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Hi Cheeba, thanks for the info. I have kinda took a different turn with this car due to the limitations of the tiptronic trans.

My new plan is to make a street car out of it and keep the HP around 240-270 with mild suspension and brake upgrades. Plus wheels and tires.

The reason is because I will eventually sell this car and buy a more suitable platform for what I want to achieve. That being said some cost effective mods are in order for this build.

As for the K&N filter it came with the car and i have the proper cleaning kit and do them all the time at work. The coils were a thought due to the fact that I have to do a wheel alignment anyways and can't afford to go full on coilovers at this time. Also if i don't plan on pushing over 300 I think I will go 3in on the exhaust. As for the brakes a good set of pads for now with do I guess.

Honestly I am kinda bummed about the auto/tip tranny not being able to do what I want it to unless I spend more on a trans than what the whole car is worth :(

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Why not just get this car up to good running standard and sell it for a tidy profit; which, you can use to buy a manual A4 and start building?

If you want to keep this car for a cost-effective build, but would still make a kick-ass daily driver, I'd do the following:

- Chip
- Turbo-back
- Rear anti-sway
- Coilovers
- Sticky tires
- Good brake pads and fluid

Also, if you're going to stick to the B5 A4 for your future build, consider that you can transfer parts from this car, so you might not want to cheap out now. Whatever works for you, though :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

I have thought about the option of building it up to be a DD with awesome parts and then transfer them all over to a 5spd car later when I want to start pulling some kick ass HP numbers. VERY GOOD IDEA!!! Thanks Cheeba.

Just curious? What kind of price am I looking at for all the parts to make this car a 5 spd? I can do all the labour so just an idea on parts would be nice with stuff like performance flywheel and clutch in mind also. I haven't given up on the idea of a conversion. I think the big reason i loved my 86 4000csQ was because it was a stick :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Anybody have a set of coilovers they want to part with???

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a good used 5-speed in the $500 range. A clutch/FW/PP will be in the $500-$1500 range depending on power capabilities. You should be able to get a decent Stage III+ kit for around the $1K mark.

If there's one thing that I've learned modifying vehicles, it's that you should have a clear goal in mind when you start, and don't half-ass anything - just buy what you really from the start. Nearly everyone who mod's seriously, buys stuff, then upgrades to something else, and, in the end, finally just buys what they really should have bought first, losing a lot of money every step of the way ;)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

So I found a set of coilovers used with 15,000kms on them for $375. They are ABT H&R full coilovers. No adjustability in rebound or compression but are adjustable in ride height. this seems like a pretty fair deal, any ideas or thoughts on this? (Cheeba) haha

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Buying used coilovers is always risky. You have to evaluate the risk vs. reward for yourself. At $375, if you can be reasonably sure that the seller is an upstanding person, I think it may be worth the risk. When buying a used suspension, you should be ready to accept that all of the dampers may need rebuilding. And, of course, don't buy something that doesn't suit your needs just because it's a good deal.

Also, as far as I know, ABT doesn't manufacture their own suspension kits, but they also aren't re-branded H&R coilovers; so, I don't know what's up with calling them ABT H&Rs - they're either one or the other. That said, I know ABT has worked with in the past, and is a very prominent German tuner. Although, maybe they are all re-branded H&Rs and I've just never picked up on it :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

So I have commenced work on the car... Replaced rh tie rod assy and got an alignment (84 bucks) and mounted my new winter tires that I only paid 300 bucks for on 16in rims... SCORE!!!! Drives so much nicer already :) And did some engine cleaning and a bath.

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http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/DSC06863.jpg

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Sooooo, i've recently dicided to do the coolant flush that iv've been wanting to do anyway since I bought the car. Anitreeze is mud!!!!!! So much oil contamination it's crazy. Flushed and flushed it crazy and still more. I added a bottle of rad cleaner and am gonna run it for abit. Then do the fush again. At this time test and clean the oil cooler and the turbo. Also pressure test both. Mostly I am testing the turbo just cause i want to know it"s condition. As in a K04 swap now or after I've done other stuff to the car. This is a big factor on were I spend my time and money...

I will find out where the oil is coming from and yes there are no bubbles in the antifreeze but I do smell fuel... Immediatly thinking turbo now!!!! Gonna test the oil cooler in the next day or two and then the turbo. I am hoping the turbo is fine and it's the cooler. My money is best in suspension and exhaust work right now.

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

This is what I drained and flushed out of my cooling system. the car never overheats and actually barely will registar 90... It does puck out the overflow after I've been driving and park thou. Thinking turbo thou again. Turbo creating preesure and leaking oil. possible!!!

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

This how Iebded my flush. I did add cleaner and new antifrreze at this point. Gonna still flush it again after the cleaner get's a chance to work.

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Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

Wow - that does not look pretty at all... oil in the coolant

Chad

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

You're looking at a head-gasket leak, or an oil-cooler gasket leak. The coolant and oil lines to the turbo do not interface, so there's no way for them to have fluid contamination there. What does your oil look like? I wouldn't run the car until you figure out what's wrong with it.

If you do need to do the head-gasket, you should consider just building the engine now. Once the head is off, have it rebuilt with stainless intake and inconel exhaust valves, toss in some rods, and the engine is ready for 600HP! You can leave the block in when flex-honing it, but if it's unknown condition, you might want to pull it for some machine work. Of course, once you're that far along, a 2.0T is only a used AEG crank (from the naturally-aspirated 2.0L Golf/Jetta) and a set of $500 pistons away :)

Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
 

I am doing some major digging in on this oil/coolant problem. The car NEVER smokes or has any bubbles in the coolant res. I am almost positive that it is a oil cooler. In the last two days I am down 3/4liter of oil again thou. Good ol Wes-Can will be supplying me with a oil cooler. They are cheap so I figured I would just buy it and do it since this has been a problem for some people.

If it does turn out to be a head gasket then I will be doing the head up and probably for now leave the bottom end alone until I get all the parts together to do it right. For now I want the engine to be solid and all the maintainance up to par.

I really want to spend my money on suspension and wheels and exhaust plus chip. Not full out engine build right now. Thanks for the tip on the 2.0 swap... I will be looking into that also when I am collecting all the parts for the long block build.

My buddy is looking at those coilovers for me and I will most likely be buying them. Not gonna put them in till spring most likely thou.