audi dealership dont know nothing. go to proffesional that do only german (audi, vw and porsche) and they will know. Only 10% of audi owner that doest have warranty anymore (after 4 years) goes to the dealership. the other 90% goes to german proffesional shop. im sure they will help you better than the dealership.

 

Is it possible that my throttle body needs to be reset/realigned???

 

I would try the throttle body alignment trick people talk about on audi forums.
Seafoaming your car can help rough idle. It could be just high gunk buildup in throttle etc....
How much km you have?

I seafoam my car before I change my spark plugs. Love the stuff.

 

I'll look into that, thanks

I'm starting to think it might be electrical for the reason that the vibration in my car pulses when one of my blinkers is on. Thoughts?

 

I am having a similar issue with my 2000 audi a4 1.8t. I do have the p0411 secondary air pump CEL. I also got it VAG tested and it came up with the following:

17965- charge pressure control
18014- rough road/ engine torque signal from ABS

I feel as though I have power, and the car drives fine when I am not stopped. This happens whenever I am idling and shakes the whole car.

Also, the CEL code I have is because there is no power getting to my secondary air pump. Anyone know how to fix that? The person before me put an aftermarket cone filter on my car and did not connect the hose from the secondary air pump to the filter, I dont know if that would affect anything.

Anyone have any ideas as to what my issue is?

 

Does this still happen when the engine is warm of just on first start up?

Doug

 

Hi Doug,
First of all, thanks for your reply. It happens even when my car is warm. It happens every time I start my vehicle and evey time I am idling at a traffic light etc.
Gareth

 

Hello everyone I have a 1999 A4-B5 with the same issue though mine only does it under load. It started when I was having mass airflow censer trouble. Wondering if you have tried disco the +side of the battery for 10min reconnect, turn you head lights on your ac or heater and radio then start the car. This allows the computer to rethink idle. Also as soon as the car started put it in gear with the emergency brake on. I have not tried this yet and will this weekend. No engine codes were found.

 

Ok this morning I did what I wrote previously. I also went ahead and disco the mass airflow and some other censors just to be sure no dirt or bad connection. I gave the car 10min to discharge. Turned on the radio, AC, lights started the car and put it in gear and turned my steering wheel to add even more load. Gave this a few minutes and then went for a test drive. I did notice a difference the RPM's at idle in park were higher and some of the lower RPM's with load got better. I would recomend trying this your results my differ.

 

I have the same problem but only in extreme cold, -15 C. The colder it get the more noticeable the vibrations/shaking. at -30 the car has a hard time starting and it turns over a couple of times before it starts. Once it warms up the vibrations are gone, they are also not present when driving.