Art M

"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:11b8nta1al0e441@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Art M wrote:
>> "Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
>> news:11b6m9tg2o2f87d@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>If this is the 1.8T engine the 'coking' issue can involve more than just
>>>the oil pump that the dealer replaced.
>>
>>
>>
>> It is the 1.8T and I have no doubt that the sludge is clogging things up.
>> When you look into the engine instead of seeing machined parts you see an
>> amorphous composition that hardly resembles anything mechanical.
>
> If what you see is a foamy tan looking goo you might have a problem with
> the head gasket leaking coolant into the oil. If so that it a big issue
> that needs to be corrected by pulling the head and replacing the gasket.
>
> There are conditions where condensation from short drives combined with
> cooler ambient temperatures can cause this goo and the only thing it needs
> is to just drive a longer trip allowing the system to warm for a longer
> period of time to evaporate the moisture.

I don't think so. It's black and tar-like, currently about a mm thick, but
more gunk in the corners that I can see such as on the plastic oil
deflector. When I changed the oil about 2000 miles ago I scraped some of it
away with my fingernail to reveal shiny metal. That mark and the metal is
still visible so not much new sludge, but plenty that was already there.

--Art

Art M

"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:11b8nta1al0e441@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Art M wrote:
>> "Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
>> news:11b6m9tg2o2f87d@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>If this is the 1.8T engine the 'coking' issue can involve more than just
>>>the oil pump that the dealer replaced.
>>
>>
>>
>> It is the 1.8T and I have no doubt that the sludge is clogging things up.
>> When you look into the engine instead of seeing machined parts you see an
>> amorphous composition that hardly resembles anything mechanical.
>
> If what you see is a foamy tan looking goo you might have a problem with
> the head gasket leaking coolant into the oil. If so that it a big issue
> that needs to be corrected by pulling the head and replacing the gasket.
>
> There are conditions where condensation from short drives combined with
> cooler ambient temperatures can cause this goo and the only thing it needs
> is to just drive a longer trip allowing the system to warm for a longer
> period of time to evaporate the moisture.

I don't think so. It's black and tar-like, currently about a mm thick, but
more gunk in the corners that I can see such as on the plastic oil
deflector. When I changed the oil about 2000 miles ago I scraped some of it
away with my fingernail to reveal shiny metal. That mark and the metal is
still visible so not much new sludge, but plenty that was already there.

--Art

Art M

"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:11b8nta1al0e441@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Art M wrote:
>> "Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
>> news:11b6m9tg2o2f87d@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>>>If this is the 1.8T engine the 'coking' issue can involve more than just
>>>the oil pump that the dealer replaced.
>>
>>
>>
>> It is the 1.8T and I have no doubt that the sludge is clogging things up.
>> When you look into the engine instead of seeing machined parts you see an
>> amorphous composition that hardly resembles anything mechanical.
>
> If what you see is a foamy tan looking goo you might have a problem with
> the head gasket leaking coolant into the oil. If so that it a big issue
> that needs to be corrected by pulling the head and replacing the gasket.
>
> There are conditions where condensation from short drives combined with
> cooler ambient temperatures can cause this goo and the only thing it needs
> is to just drive a longer trip allowing the system to warm for a longer
> period of time to evaporate the moisture.

I don't think so. It's black and tar-like, currently about a mm thick, but
more gunk in the corners that I can see such as on the plastic oil
deflector. When I changed the oil about 2000 miles ago I scraped some of it
away with my fingernail to reveal shiny metal. That mark and the metal is
still visible so not much new sludge, but plenty that was already there.

--Art

Art M

"Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
news:11%se.25791$6o4.14304@fed1read04...
> "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
> news:krYse.35038$rb6.3985@lakeread07...
>>
>> "Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:48Lse.17462$6o4.13505@fed1read04...
>> >
>> > "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
>> > news:jkGse.34962$rb6.23160@lakeread07...
>> >> So their diagnosis:
>> >>
>> >> "Oil was dirty & need replacing along with
>> >> new filter."
>> >
>> > Good grief! The oil is supposed to get dirty.
>> >
>> > Is the oil light still coming on after replacing the sensor?
>>
>> Not yet, but I've driven it less than 100 miles since then, and both
>> episodes happened after 5 hours of driving with only one or two brief
> stops.
>>
>> Hell, I just looked in the manual and saw that the oil level indicator
> light
>> has the word MIN printed with the oil can icon. The indicator light I had
>> was for oil PRESSURE just as I thought and as the symptoms indicated. I'm
>> thinking of installing one of those after-market dial pressure gauges so
>> that I can get a better idea of how bad the problem is, but I don't want
> it
>> to look jury-rigged.
>>
>> Anyone have any advice on how to be a squeaky wheel and actually get some
>> beneficial service done to it?
>>
>> --Art
>
> I would recommend that you attempt to duplicate the conditions under which
> the oil light previously appeared and see if it comes back on. The problem
> is if you don't get the oil light to come back on, you won't have much of
> a
> case to argue. Your oil pressure switch is on the oil filter bracket and
> from what I can see in the manual, you remove the switch and then install
> the appropriate fitting with tubing to your oil pressure gauge. With
> engine
> warmed up, Bentley manual says you should get more than 14.5 psi at idle
> and
> more than 72.5 psi at 3000 RPM. Haynes says at least 29 psi at 2000 RPM.
> It
> is also possible that the recent oil changes have removed some of the
> gunk.
> If the light doesn't come back on and your oil pressure measures OK, then
> I
> would use one of the recommended synthetics http://tinyurl.com/82xga in a
> 5W-40 formulation (not xW30) and do several oil changes over the next
> 10,000
> miles.
>
> IMHO this would not be a car I'd be looking at keeping for the long term.
> Because Audi stupidly increased the oil change interval and allowed
> continued use of dino-oil, there was no longer any safety factor to
> protect
> the owner who went slightly over the maintenance interval. Because of
> that,
> your engine has been essentially abused in its early life and the
> resulting
> excessive wear on internal engine components has probably shortened their
> lives considerably.

Audi dealer is pushing for frequent oil changes to gradually remove the
sludge. You would think they would at least clean the valve cover and oil
pan to eliminate a large portion of the sludge so that the filter wouldn't
clog as quickly. Assuming it does clean up and then I have an engine failure
within the 8yr warranty extension, do I still have a case? I think I'm going
to send in that reimbursement card included in the letter for the oil change
that I had to myself just so they have a record of my complaint about the
sludge. Nowhere in the service records is the sludge problem mentioned. This
even though the oil pump was replaced before 25k and there have been
complaints about the oil light coming on at every service visit from that
point onward.

Thanks for the advice.

--Art

Art M

"Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
news:11%se.25791$6o4.14304@fed1read04...
> "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
> news:krYse.35038$rb6.3985@lakeread07...
>>
>> "Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:48Lse.17462$6o4.13505@fed1read04...
>> >
>> > "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
>> > news:jkGse.34962$rb6.23160@lakeread07...
>> >> So their diagnosis:
>> >>
>> >> "Oil was dirty & need replacing along with
>> >> new filter."
>> >
>> > Good grief! The oil is supposed to get dirty.
>> >
>> > Is the oil light still coming on after replacing the sensor?
>>
>> Not yet, but I've driven it less than 100 miles since then, and both
>> episodes happened after 5 hours of driving with only one or two brief
> stops.
>>
>> Hell, I just looked in the manual and saw that the oil level indicator
> light
>> has the word MIN printed with the oil can icon. The indicator light I had
>> was for oil PRESSURE just as I thought and as the symptoms indicated. I'm
>> thinking of installing one of those after-market dial pressure gauges so
>> that I can get a better idea of how bad the problem is, but I don't want
> it
>> to look jury-rigged.
>>
>> Anyone have any advice on how to be a squeaky wheel and actually get some
>> beneficial service done to it?
>>
>> --Art
>
> I would recommend that you attempt to duplicate the conditions under which
> the oil light previously appeared and see if it comes back on. The problem
> is if you don't get the oil light to come back on, you won't have much of
> a
> case to argue. Your oil pressure switch is on the oil filter bracket and
> from what I can see in the manual, you remove the switch and then install
> the appropriate fitting with tubing to your oil pressure gauge. With
> engine
> warmed up, Bentley manual says you should get more than 14.5 psi at idle
> and
> more than 72.5 psi at 3000 RPM. Haynes says at least 29 psi at 2000 RPM.
> It
> is also possible that the recent oil changes have removed some of the
> gunk.
> If the light doesn't come back on and your oil pressure measures OK, then
> I
> would use one of the recommended synthetics http://tinyurl.com/82xga in a
> 5W-40 formulation (not xW30) and do several oil changes over the next
> 10,000
> miles.
>
> IMHO this would not be a car I'd be looking at keeping for the long term.
> Because Audi stupidly increased the oil change interval and allowed
> continued use of dino-oil, there was no longer any safety factor to
> protect
> the owner who went slightly over the maintenance interval. Because of
> that,
> your engine has been essentially abused in its early life and the
> resulting
> excessive wear on internal engine components has probably shortened their
> lives considerably.

Audi dealer is pushing for frequent oil changes to gradually remove the
sludge. You would think they would at least clean the valve cover and oil
pan to eliminate a large portion of the sludge so that the filter wouldn't
clog as quickly. Assuming it does clean up and then I have an engine failure
within the 8yr warranty extension, do I still have a case? I think I'm going
to send in that reimbursement card included in the letter for the oil change
that I had to myself just so they have a record of my complaint about the
sludge. Nowhere in the service records is the sludge problem mentioned. This
even though the oil pump was replaced before 25k and there have been
complaints about the oil light coming on at every service visit from that
point onward.

Thanks for the advice.

--Art

Art M

"Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
news:11%se.25791$6o4.14304@fed1read04...
> "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
> news:krYse.35038$rb6.3985@lakeread07...
>>
>> "Ian S" <iws51remove@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:48Lse.17462$6o4.13505@fed1read04...
>> >
>> > "Art M" <Xarthurruhtra@netscape.netX> wrote in message
>> > news:jkGse.34962$rb6.23160@lakeread07...
>> >> So their diagnosis:
>> >>
>> >> "Oil was dirty & need replacing along with
>> >> new filter."
>> >
>> > Good grief! The oil is supposed to get dirty.
>> >
>> > Is the oil light still coming on after replacing the sensor?
>>
>> Not yet, but I've driven it less than 100 miles since then, and both
>> episodes happened after 5 hours of driving with only one or two brief
> stops.
>>
>> Hell, I just looked in the manual and saw that the oil level indicator
> light
>> has the word MIN printed with the oil can icon. The indicator light I had
>> was for oil PRESSURE just as I thought and as the symptoms indicated. I'm
>> thinking of installing one of those after-market dial pressure gauges so
>> that I can get a better idea of how bad the problem is, but I don't want
> it
>> to look jury-rigged.
>>
>> Anyone have any advice on how to be a squeaky wheel and actually get some
>> beneficial service done to it?
>>
>> --Art
>
> I would recommend that you attempt to duplicate the conditions under which
> the oil light previously appeared and see if it comes back on. The problem
> is if you don't get the oil light to come back on, you won't have much of
> a
> case to argue. Your oil pressure switch is on the oil filter bracket and
> from what I can see in the manual, you remove the switch and then install
> the appropriate fitting with tubing to your oil pressure gauge. With
> engine
> warmed up, Bentley manual says you should get more than 14.5 psi at idle
> and
> more than 72.5 psi at 3000 RPM. Haynes says at least 29 psi at 2000 RPM.
> It
> is also possible that the recent oil changes have removed some of the
> gunk.
> If the light doesn't come back on and your oil pressure measures OK, then
> I
> would use one of the recommended synthetics http://tinyurl.com/82xga in a
> 5W-40 formulation (not xW30) and do several oil changes over the next
> 10,000
> miles.
>
> IMHO this would not be a car I'd be looking at keeping for the long term.
> Because Audi stupidly increased the oil change interval and allowed
> continued use of dino-oil, there was no longer any safety factor to
> protect
> the owner who went slightly over the maintenance interval. Because of
> that,
> your engine has been essentially abused in its early life and the
> resulting
> excessive wear on internal engine components has probably shortened their
> lives considerably.

Audi dealer is pushing for frequent oil changes to gradually remove the
sludge. You would think they would at least clean the valve cover and oil
pan to eliminate a large portion of the sludge so that the filter wouldn't
clog as quickly. Assuming it does clean up and then I have an engine failure
within the 8yr warranty extension, do I still have a case? I think I'm going
to send in that reimbursement card included in the letter for the oil change
that I had to myself just so they have a record of my complaint about the
sludge. Nowhere in the service records is the sludge problem mentioned. This
even though the oil pump was replaced before 25k and there have been
complaints about the oil light coming on at every service visit from that
point onward.

Thanks for the advice.

--Art