|
new oil filter
I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil
change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? Hunter |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the 1.8. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the 1.8. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the 1.8. |
Re: new oil filter
There has been a revision in the recommended filter for the 1.8T as a result of
the coking issue. Synthetic is also recommended for the same reason as it has better heat tolerance. The new filter is notably larger in diameter than the previous. TonyJ 98.5 1.8TQM APR Ian S wrote: > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >>change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >>can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >>I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >>Hunter > > > I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the > best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone > will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As > for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the > 1.8. > > |
Re: new oil filter
There has been a revision in the recommended filter for the 1.8T as a result of
the coking issue. Synthetic is also recommended for the same reason as it has better heat tolerance. The new filter is notably larger in diameter than the previous. TonyJ 98.5 1.8TQM APR Ian S wrote: > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >>change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >>can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >>I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >>Hunter > > > I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the > best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone > will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As > for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the > 1.8. > > |
Re: new oil filter
There has been a revision in the recommended filter for the 1.8T as a result of
the coking issue. Synthetic is also recommended for the same reason as it has better heat tolerance. The new filter is notably larger in diameter than the previous. TonyJ 98.5 1.8TQM APR Ian S wrote: > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >>change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >>can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >>I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >>Hunter > > > I think with a turbo, you should use the synthetic. Walmart probably has the > best price on a brand name synthetic but places like Checker and Autozone > will sometimes have a sale. It's fine to get the filter at the dealer. As > for filter size, my 2.8 has had a couple of sizes but I don't know about the > 1.8. > > |
Re: new oil filter
I'm thinking I should start posting this monthly or maybe weekly. Please
note specific brands and weights. http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter > |
Re: new oil filter
I'm thinking I should start posting this monthly or maybe weekly. Please
note specific brands and weights. http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter > |
Re: new oil filter
I'm thinking I should start posting this monthly or maybe weekly. Please
note specific brands and weights. http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Hunter > |
Re: new oil filter
where is the engine oil located?
|
Re: new oil filter
where is the engine oil located?
|
Re: new oil filter
where is the engine oil located?
|
Re: new oil filter
do you know where is the engine oil belly pan?
hunter |
Re: new oil filter
do you know where is the engine oil belly pan?
hunter |
Re: new oil filter
do you know where is the engine oil belly pan?
hunter |
Re: new oil filter
In message <b9f9f6ca055843d713bad018d5bfe23b@localhost.talkab outautos.com>
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote: > where is the engine oil located? In the sump? -- Peter Bell (Note Spamtrap - To reply, replace 'invalid' with 'bellfamily') |
Re: new oil filter
In message <b9f9f6ca055843d713bad018d5bfe23b@localhost.talkab outautos.com>
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote: > where is the engine oil located? In the sump? -- Peter Bell (Note Spamtrap - To reply, replace 'invalid' with 'bellfamily') |
Re: new oil filter
In message <b9f9f6ca055843d713bad018d5bfe23b@localhost.talkab outautos.com>
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote: > where is the engine oil located? In the sump? -- Peter Bell (Note Spamtrap - To reply, replace 'invalid' with 'bellfamily') |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:af652d4d373d35cb6b3ff39b7b122037@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > do you know where is the engine oil belly pan? > hunter Hmmmmm....in answer to your two questions.... The Engine oil is usually located in the engine....(!) But I expect you meant the oil filter ........ Its towards the back of the engine on the right hand side (about half way up) as you stand in front of the car looking at the engine. Easiest access is by moving the coolant reservoir out of the way (just 3 screws & unhook the electrical connection underneath). No need to empty this just move it away. To change the filter you need to unscrew the old cannister - you *might* be able to do this by hand but more likely will need a strap wrench. Once you have it loosened then slip a zip lock bag over it and undo it & catch it in the bag - this will also catch a lot of the oil that inevitably spills. Once you have it out wipe up as much of the remaining spilled oil as possible. Putting some paper towels underneath is a good idea before you start. To replace the filter, smear a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal on the new filter, fill it half full of fresh engine oil and then screw it into place. Once its snugged up then add an additional 1/4 turn - you must not overtighten it or it will probably leak and you'll have a hell of a job to get it back off. Just tighten it by hand. Assuming you are a person of average strength then a good rule of thumb is to make it as tight as you can using one hand only - and then add a little bit more. Once you are done put the coolant tank back & don't forget to plug in the electrical connector underneath before you do. To change the oil you need to remove the belly pan under the engine - it is the plastic cover that fits across the entire width of the car underneath the engine - so it is really very large. Removing it is the only way to get to the drain plug. The belly pan is fastened by 2 or 3 fasteners in each front wheel well & then three screws & a nut across the front & three screws across the back. You can get it out without jacking the car up but its easier if you can raise the car up. It is possible your car does not have a belly pan. If it doesn't it should and you should go and buy one from the dealer. Since you are a novice mechanic I suggest you find some planks of wood and just drive the front of the car up onto these to lift it 2-3 inches (that's all you need) rather than try to figure out how to jack the car & put it on stands safely. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks - they can disintegrate under the weight of the car and never, ever work under a car that is only supported on a jack - you are likely to get killed. Remember to apply the brake & chock the rear wheels so it can't roll back off. To drain the oil you will need a 17mm wrench to undo the drain plug - this will be quite tight. Use a ring spanner/box wrench & you may need to help it with a mallet. It is located towards the front of the engine at the bottom of the side of the sump on the right side as you look at it from the front. Make sure you have an adequate sized container underneath before you undo it. The oil will come out very fast. When you have undone it you should find there is a copper washer there - you should replace this. Before draining the oil & changing the filter, warm the car up a bit first - not upto full running temp but just run it for 3-5 minutes from cold to warm the oil up a bit - it comes out much easier when warm. Allow it to drip for a good 20-30 minutes before you replace the plug and refill. Make sure the plug is good and tight - you should really torque it with a torque wrench. Get the car back to level ground before you refill with oil - just roll it back off the planks - do not start it without oil in it! Add about 4 quarts (suggest you use Mobil 1 0W40) , replace cap on top of engine and then start engine. Do NOT rev it. just turn the key and allow it to come to life & settle at idle. It will clatter a fair bit initially until the new oil finds its way up round the engine. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, turn it off, wait a couple of minutes & then check oil level - you will probably need to add a bit - do NOT overfill it. Once it is full & you are satisfied there are no leaks from either the drain plug or the filter then refit the belly pan - this can be tricky and you need to be patient with it. Dispose of your old oil and filter sensibly. I strongly recommend you go and buy yourself a Haynes manual at least before you start, and, if possible, get some help from a freind who does this kind of thing regularly. HTH I. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:af652d4d373d35cb6b3ff39b7b122037@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > do you know where is the engine oil belly pan? > hunter Hmmmmm....in answer to your two questions.... The Engine oil is usually located in the engine....(!) But I expect you meant the oil filter ........ Its towards the back of the engine on the right hand side (about half way up) as you stand in front of the car looking at the engine. Easiest access is by moving the coolant reservoir out of the way (just 3 screws & unhook the electrical connection underneath). No need to empty this just move it away. To change the filter you need to unscrew the old cannister - you *might* be able to do this by hand but more likely will need a strap wrench. Once you have it loosened then slip a zip lock bag over it and undo it & catch it in the bag - this will also catch a lot of the oil that inevitably spills. Once you have it out wipe up as much of the remaining spilled oil as possible. Putting some paper towels underneath is a good idea before you start. To replace the filter, smear a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal on the new filter, fill it half full of fresh engine oil and then screw it into place. Once its snugged up then add an additional 1/4 turn - you must not overtighten it or it will probably leak and you'll have a hell of a job to get it back off. Just tighten it by hand. Assuming you are a person of average strength then a good rule of thumb is to make it as tight as you can using one hand only - and then add a little bit more. Once you are done put the coolant tank back & don't forget to plug in the electrical connector underneath before you do. To change the oil you need to remove the belly pan under the engine - it is the plastic cover that fits across the entire width of the car underneath the engine - so it is really very large. Removing it is the only way to get to the drain plug. The belly pan is fastened by 2 or 3 fasteners in each front wheel well & then three screws & a nut across the front & three screws across the back. You can get it out without jacking the car up but its easier if you can raise the car up. It is possible your car does not have a belly pan. If it doesn't it should and you should go and buy one from the dealer. Since you are a novice mechanic I suggest you find some planks of wood and just drive the front of the car up onto these to lift it 2-3 inches (that's all you need) rather than try to figure out how to jack the car & put it on stands safely. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks - they can disintegrate under the weight of the car and never, ever work under a car that is only supported on a jack - you are likely to get killed. Remember to apply the brake & chock the rear wheels so it can't roll back off. To drain the oil you will need a 17mm wrench to undo the drain plug - this will be quite tight. Use a ring spanner/box wrench & you may need to help it with a mallet. It is located towards the front of the engine at the bottom of the side of the sump on the right side as you look at it from the front. Make sure you have an adequate sized container underneath before you undo it. The oil will come out very fast. When you have undone it you should find there is a copper washer there - you should replace this. Before draining the oil & changing the filter, warm the car up a bit first - not upto full running temp but just run it for 3-5 minutes from cold to warm the oil up a bit - it comes out much easier when warm. Allow it to drip for a good 20-30 minutes before you replace the plug and refill. Make sure the plug is good and tight - you should really torque it with a torque wrench. Get the car back to level ground before you refill with oil - just roll it back off the planks - do not start it without oil in it! Add about 4 quarts (suggest you use Mobil 1 0W40) , replace cap on top of engine and then start engine. Do NOT rev it. just turn the key and allow it to come to life & settle at idle. It will clatter a fair bit initially until the new oil finds its way up round the engine. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, turn it off, wait a couple of minutes & then check oil level - you will probably need to add a bit - do NOT overfill it. Once it is full & you are satisfied there are no leaks from either the drain plug or the filter then refit the belly pan - this can be tricky and you need to be patient with it. Dispose of your old oil and filter sensibly. I strongly recommend you go and buy yourself a Haynes manual at least before you start, and, if possible, get some help from a freind who does this kind of thing regularly. HTH I. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:af652d4d373d35cb6b3ff39b7b122037@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... > do you know where is the engine oil belly pan? > hunter Hmmmmm....in answer to your two questions.... The Engine oil is usually located in the engine....(!) But I expect you meant the oil filter ........ Its towards the back of the engine on the right hand side (about half way up) as you stand in front of the car looking at the engine. Easiest access is by moving the coolant reservoir out of the way (just 3 screws & unhook the electrical connection underneath). No need to empty this just move it away. To change the filter you need to unscrew the old cannister - you *might* be able to do this by hand but more likely will need a strap wrench. Once you have it loosened then slip a zip lock bag over it and undo it & catch it in the bag - this will also catch a lot of the oil that inevitably spills. Once you have it out wipe up as much of the remaining spilled oil as possible. Putting some paper towels underneath is a good idea before you start. To replace the filter, smear a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal on the new filter, fill it half full of fresh engine oil and then screw it into place. Once its snugged up then add an additional 1/4 turn - you must not overtighten it or it will probably leak and you'll have a hell of a job to get it back off. Just tighten it by hand. Assuming you are a person of average strength then a good rule of thumb is to make it as tight as you can using one hand only - and then add a little bit more. Once you are done put the coolant tank back & don't forget to plug in the electrical connector underneath before you do. To change the oil you need to remove the belly pan under the engine - it is the plastic cover that fits across the entire width of the car underneath the engine - so it is really very large. Removing it is the only way to get to the drain plug. The belly pan is fastened by 2 or 3 fasteners in each front wheel well & then three screws & a nut across the front & three screws across the back. You can get it out without jacking the car up but its easier if you can raise the car up. It is possible your car does not have a belly pan. If it doesn't it should and you should go and buy one from the dealer. Since you are a novice mechanic I suggest you find some planks of wood and just drive the front of the car up onto these to lift it 2-3 inches (that's all you need) rather than try to figure out how to jack the car & put it on stands safely. Do not use concrete blocks or bricks - they can disintegrate under the weight of the car and never, ever work under a car that is only supported on a jack - you are likely to get killed. Remember to apply the brake & chock the rear wheels so it can't roll back off. To drain the oil you will need a 17mm wrench to undo the drain plug - this will be quite tight. Use a ring spanner/box wrench & you may need to help it with a mallet. It is located towards the front of the engine at the bottom of the side of the sump on the right side as you look at it from the front. Make sure you have an adequate sized container underneath before you undo it. The oil will come out very fast. When you have undone it you should find there is a copper washer there - you should replace this. Before draining the oil & changing the filter, warm the car up a bit first - not upto full running temp but just run it for 3-5 minutes from cold to warm the oil up a bit - it comes out much easier when warm. Allow it to drip for a good 20-30 minutes before you replace the plug and refill. Make sure the plug is good and tight - you should really torque it with a torque wrench. Get the car back to level ground before you refill with oil - just roll it back off the planks - do not start it without oil in it! Add about 4 quarts (suggest you use Mobil 1 0W40) , replace cap on top of engine and then start engine. Do NOT rev it. just turn the key and allow it to come to life & settle at idle. It will clatter a fair bit initially until the new oil finds its way up round the engine. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, turn it off, wait a couple of minutes & then check oil level - you will probably need to add a bit - do NOT overfill it. Once it is full & you are satisfied there are no leaks from either the drain plug or the filter then refit the belly pan - this can be tricky and you need to be patient with it. Dispose of your old oil and filter sensibly. I strongly recommend you go and buy yourself a Haynes manual at least before you start, and, if possible, get some help from a freind who does this kind of thing regularly. HTH I. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. I. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. I. |
Re: new oil filter
"audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil > change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. > can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? > I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. I. |
Re: new oil filter
Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and weights of oil are posted. It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved list... http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net... > > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >> > > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter > from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but > check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should > only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which > is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for > your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of > the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need > this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. > > I. > |
Re: new oil filter
Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and weights of oil are posted. It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved list... http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net... > > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >> > > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter > from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but > check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should > only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which > is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for > your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of > the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need > this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. > > I. > |
Re: new oil filter
Audi in the US now requires Synthetic Oil for the 1.8T engine. The link
below takes you to the Audi Website where the list of approved brands and weights of oil are posted. It is interesting to note which highly touted brands are NOT on the approved list... http://www.audiusa.com/common/images..._Oil_Chart.pdf "Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote in message news:ZCwhe.6872$yY4.6467@newsfe5-win.ntli.net... > > "audidrive" <hunter@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:b1dba05ed81a4f5361690a0c3f8de911@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com... >>I have A4 1.8 2001 audi. I'm trying to save some money by doing my oil >> change. I'm thinking of buying the audi oil filter through the dealer. >> can I use the regular pennzoil oil or do I need to buy the synthetic oil? >> I also read that the oilfilter are bigger now. is that true? >> > > Yes, the filters for the 1.8Ts are now bigger - basically its the filter > from the diesel engine! The dealer should give you a bigger filter but > check with them. In order to maintain your warranty for sludge you should > only use oil off the approved VAG list - best bet is Mobil 1 0W40 (which > is synthetic) - you can't go wrong with it. Make sure you get receipts for > your oil and filter and make sure you keep them together with a record of > the date and the mileage at which you made the oil change. You will need > this if you ever need to claim under the warranty for sludging etc. > > I. > |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:38 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands