HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being stranded.
Courtney Thomas wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>
>> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
>>
>> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
>> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
>> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
>> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
>> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
>> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
>> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
>>
>> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
>> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
>> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
>> and cheap - just two small bolts.
>>
>> What causes you to think you have a problem?
>>
>> Tonyj
>> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
>> former four T44s
>>
>> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>>
>>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to measure
>>>
>>> current & voltage
>>>
>>> output from the alternator, please ?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Courtney
>
> Thanks Tony.
>
> I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> that it's about 95 deg. here, now
>
> Appreciatively,
> Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
Forgot to ask.....can the same people that check the alternator, also check
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
Forgot to ask.....can the same people that check the alternator, also check
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
Forgot to ask.....can the same people that check the alternator, also check
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HOW2 measure alternator output on '90 Turbo 200 ?
Forgot to ask.....can the same people that check the alternator, also check
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
out the voltage regulator ?
Thanks again,
Courtney
"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12brmgf1lej3kac@corp.supernews.com...
> If it only reads 12V when it is running then the alternator or its voltage
> regulator are almost surely bad. You are running the risk of being
stranded.
>
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> > Tony wrote:
> >
> >> Your alternator is the 110 Amp version.
> >>
> >> You could check voltage output with a volt meter on the main
> >> connection on the back of the alternator when it is idling
> >> (dangerous). Then check voltage and the jumper terminal just in front
> >> of the air intake box / air filter. Next check the voltage on the
> >> battery under the rear seat. It should be nearly the same as the
> >> alternator or jumper terminal. If it isn't you have a bad / corroded
> >> splice under the carpet by the passenger kick panel.
> >>
> >> If the battery light is not on on the dash when it is running you
> >> probably do not have a problem. If the light is on you could replace
> >> the brushes and voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. Easy
> >> and cheap - just two small bolts.
> >>
> >> What causes you to think you have a problem?
> >>
> >> Tonyj
> >> '98.5 A4 1.8TQM
> >> former four T44s
> >>
> >> Courtney Thomas wrote:
> >>
> >>> I assume, perhaps incorrectly, a 110v alternator.
> >>>
> >>> What is the easiest way to measure
> >>>
> >>> current & voltage
> >>>
> >>> output from the alternator, please ?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you,
> >>> Courtney
> >
> > Thanks Tony.
> >
> > I tightened the alternator belt but the dash meter shows just over 12v
> > which I assume is the voltage output to the battery. I charged up the
> > battery before tightening up the alt belt. I guess I'll have to wait and
> > see if the battery goes dead again since I'd like to NOT crawl under now
> > that it's about 95 deg. here, now
> >
> > Appreciatively,
> > Courtney
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