diggerd83@yahoo.com

Thanks for all the help. I called autozone and they have both tools
that can be used for the brakes. I think I will take the tube
suggestion. I believe the bottle should have fluid in it as not to
allow air into the brake system.
So thanks to you help I'm going to save about 500.00 by doing this
myself and not taking it to the dealer for something that will take me
a couple of hours at the most.


Dan



Robert wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > Do you have anti lock brakes?
> > If so I would not attempt it till I knew if using the c-clamp process would
> > damage anything.
> > Last time I bought anything for my Audi, I remember it was pretty expensive.
> >
>
> Naturally, an Audi (or any other car) of MY 2000 will have ABS.
>
> A good point about potential damage you bring up. Some have claimed that
> pushing/rotating the piston back in may, in the event of contaminated
> brake fluid in the pistons, push the contaminants back up into the ABS
> mechanism, rendering it less effective. Others say that it makes no
> difference. YMMV.
>
> If you are worried about this kind of thing (or if you don't flush your
> hydraulics with new fluid every two years), then an accepted way around
> this is to loosen slightly the brake fluid nipple on the (rear) brake
> being worked on, so that the fluid being expelled from the chamber goes
> out the nipple, not back up the system, when rotating the pistons back
> into the housing. Of course, use plastic tubing to lead the fluid from
> the nipple to a bottle. Remember to tighten nipple once job is
> completed. Repeat for the other brake. Top up brake fluid reservoir with
> new fluid if needed.
>
> I do the above procedure myself and am pleased with the results.
>
> /Robert