air conditioning problem in 1989 200 turbo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi everyone,
Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
were unable to even diagnose the problem.
Thank you all!
I have a new issue now:
I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
Possibly a switch or sensor.
The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
one or the other working.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Jan
Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
were unable to even diagnose the problem.
Thank you all!
I have a new issue now:
I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
Possibly a switch or sensor.
The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
one or the other working.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Jan
Guest
Posts: n/a
First the window regulator.
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
First the window regulator.
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
First the window regulator.
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
First the window regulator.
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
If you are replacing it because it doesn't work then your problem is more likely
electrical than the regulator itself. A number of electrical functions in the
car are controlled be switches in the driver's door. What happens is the wires
that route through a rubber accordion in the hinge area get broken due to
flexing over time. I would look there first and repair any bad wires.
AC:
First check the outside air re-circulator flap up behind the glove box. The
spring that closes it is very likely to break or the plastic mount for the
spring breaks. Either replace the spring or fashion a coat hanger in the shape
of the letter M to re-mount the spring. You will get the idea when you look at it.
While in there check from the top side to be sure the vacuum hose is attached to
the vacuum servo that operates the flap. You need to be sure that all the vacuum
components are functioning and that there are no leaks in order for the system
to operate.
Also, while the glove box is removed check the operation of the cable that runs
from a black box through the firewall. That cable operates the hot / cold air
flap in the blower cage just in front of the windshield and under the black
plastic rain shield cover. Operation can be checked by turning the AC on and
observing the movement of the cable.
Check these things first and get back to use if it doesn't correct the problem.
There are other things to check but they get a bit more complicated.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Thanks to this site my husband was able to repair my car's brake
> problem for $100 and in about 20 minutes after the German repair shops
> were unable to even diagnose the problem.
> Thank you all!
> I have a new issue now:
> I took my 1989 200 turbo in to have the air conditioning recharged at a
> local garage. They found no leaks when it was pressure tested and feel
> that there is an electrical problem which they're unwilling to touch.
> Possibly a switch or sensor.
> The air has never worked since I bought the car in the spring. We've
> also been looking for a window regulator for the passenger window
> without success and, even though summer's almost over, I need at least
> one or the other working.
> Any ideas? Thanks!
> Jan
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Tony,
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Tony,
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Tony,
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Tony,
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
doesn't come on at all, though.
I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
not coming on.
Thanks again.
Jan
Guest
Posts: n/a
Regulator again:
It could still be either the switch in the driver's door or the passenger door.
At this point I think you should pull the passenger side door panel (really not
a bad job at all) and check with a volt meter to see if power is getting to the
regulator. If it is then I agree the regulator is probably bad. If not you still
have to trace where the power is getting interrupted.
The reason I would be supprised to see the regulator be the problem is that they
are usually good unless you have heard a grinding noise when they were
operating. Also the passenger side is not used as much as the drivers side wo is
not often a problem.
AC:
At this point there get to be a number of things that could be the problem. If
you and your husband are confident with DIY mechanics and electronics then it is
worth a try troubleshooting. OTOH if you are not that comfortable with the auto
tech stuff it might be a project best done at an auto AC repair shop.
Things that could be involved:
climate control controller
bad AC compressor clutch
Bad AC relay (relay box in front of driver side windshield
problem with outside temp sensor
problem with engine coolant temp sensor
bad idle or WOT switch on throttle body
The control on the dash has its own diagnostics. If you have a manual you can
interrogate it to see if it can give you clues to its problem.
You might want to search the history on the AudiWorld forum for T44 series.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
(don't worry about the V8 it is for all T44s. Lots of poster with lots of
knowledge. this has been discussed repeatedly for years on that forum.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi Tony,
> Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
> checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
> regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
> often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
> dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
> wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
> I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
> It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
> 'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
> doesn't come on at all, though.
> I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
> the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
> Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
> what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
> not coming on.
> Thanks again.
> Jan
>
It could still be either the switch in the driver's door or the passenger door.
At this point I think you should pull the passenger side door panel (really not
a bad job at all) and check with a volt meter to see if power is getting to the
regulator. If it is then I agree the regulator is probably bad. If not you still
have to trace where the power is getting interrupted.
The reason I would be supprised to see the regulator be the problem is that they
are usually good unless you have heard a grinding noise when they were
operating. Also the passenger side is not used as much as the drivers side wo is
not often a problem.
AC:
At this point there get to be a number of things that could be the problem. If
you and your husband are confident with DIY mechanics and electronics then it is
worth a try troubleshooting. OTOH if you are not that comfortable with the auto
tech stuff it might be a project best done at an auto AC repair shop.
Things that could be involved:
climate control controller
bad AC compressor clutch
Bad AC relay (relay box in front of driver side windshield
problem with outside temp sensor
problem with engine coolant temp sensor
bad idle or WOT switch on throttle body
The control on the dash has its own diagnostics. If you have a manual you can
interrogate it to see if it can give you clues to its problem.
You might want to search the history on the AudiWorld forum for T44 series.
http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/
(don't worry about the V8 it is for all T44s. Lots of poster with lots of
knowledge. this has been discussed repeatedly for years on that forum.
Amigo wrote:
> Hi Tony,
> Thank you for the quick response. The window not working has been
> checked by two shops and both said it wasn't the switch but was the
> regulator. Both seemd surprised because apparently they don't 'go' very
> often. It's also been checked for broken wires, etc. A new one at the
> dealership is $650 and for the only used one we could find the guy
> wanted $500. Have been watching eBay but no luck.
> I should probably elaborate on the air problem.
> It tested at 50 pounds pressure. When I put the climate control to
> 'auto' it does blow out lots of air, it's just not cold. The compressor
> doesn't come on at all, though.
> I spoke to the mechanic again and he mentioned a module possibly being
> the problem but, of course, knows nothing about Audis.
> Should I still look for the things you mentioned? It sounds like that's
> what I would do if there were no air blowing, rather than if it's just
> not coming on.
> Thanks again.
> Jan
>


