Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

Robert knastet inn: :
> Frank wrote:

> As far as water pump goes, I am told by my Audi indy that the water pump
> on my motor variant (AJL) is *not* driven off of the timing belt, though
> it seems to be a universal truth on this forum that all water pumps are.


That was not the point ...

To replace the water pump _or_ the timing belt, 90% of the
job is done - replacing the other one as well. The thumb
rule - is to change both at the same time, to save work hours

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

Change the timing belt, water pump and any idler bearings while replacing
one or the other. Sometimes it is considered "Preventative Maintenance".
Kinda like if you need to replace the clutch...........change the rear
crankshaft seal and pilot bearing too!

AFAIK that has been the rule since the Audi 5000, although the rule is
stronger when the timing belt and interference engine could be damaged by a
damaged water pump. :-)

Some Audis, like my 4000S with the 4 cylinder, that rule is NA! :-)

JMHO
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"Frank" <NoSpam2Me@online.no> wrote in message
news:51i9bbF1k34bmU1@mid.individual.net...
> Robert knastet inn: :
>> Frank wrote:
>
>> As far as water pump goes, I am told by my Audi indy that the water pump
>> on my motor variant (AJL) is *not* driven off of the timing belt, though
>> it seems to be a universal truth on this forum that all water pumps are.
>
>
> That was not the point ...
>
> To replace the water pump _or_ the timing belt, 90% of the
> job is done - replacing the other one as well. The thumb
> rule - is to change both at the same time, to save work hours

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

Change the timing belt, water pump and any idler bearings while replacing
one or the other. Sometimes it is considered "Preventative Maintenance".
Kinda like if you need to replace the clutch...........change the rear
crankshaft seal and pilot bearing too!

AFAIK that has been the rule since the Audi 5000, although the rule is
stronger when the timing belt and interference engine could be damaged by a
damaged water pump. :-)

Some Audis, like my 4000S with the 4 cylinder, that rule is NA! :-)

JMHO
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"Frank" <NoSpam2Me@online.no> wrote in message
news:51i9bbF1k34bmU1@mid.individual.net...
> Robert knastet inn: :
>> Frank wrote:
>
>> As far as water pump goes, I am told by my Audi indy that the water pump
>> on my motor variant (AJL) is *not* driven off of the timing belt, though
>> it seems to be a universal truth on this forum that all water pumps are.
>
>
> That was not the point ...
>
> To replace the water pump _or_ the timing belt, 90% of the
> job is done - replacing the other one as well. The thumb
> rule - is to change both at the same time, to save work hours

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

Change the timing belt, water pump and any idler bearings while replacing
one or the other. Sometimes it is considered "Preventative Maintenance".
Kinda like if you need to replace the clutch...........change the rear
crankshaft seal and pilot bearing too!

AFAIK that has been the rule since the Audi 5000, although the rule is
stronger when the timing belt and interference engine could be damaged by a
damaged water pump. :-)

Some Audis, like my 4000S with the 4 cylinder, that rule is NA! :-)

JMHO
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"Frank" <NoSpam2Me@online.no> wrote in message
news:51i9bbF1k34bmU1@mid.individual.net...
> Robert knastet inn: :
>> Frank wrote:
>
>> As far as water pump goes, I am told by my Audi indy that the water pump
>> on my motor variant (AJL) is *not* driven off of the timing belt, though
>> it seems to be a universal truth on this forum that all water pumps are.
>
>
> That was not the point ...
>
> To replace the water pump _or_ the timing belt, 90% of the
> job is done - replacing the other one as well. The thumb
> rule - is to change both at the same time, to save work hours

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

Change the timing belt, water pump and any idler bearings while replacing
one or the other. Sometimes it is considered "Preventative Maintenance".
Kinda like if you need to replace the clutch...........change the rear
crankshaft seal and pilot bearing too!

AFAIK that has been the rule since the Audi 5000, although the rule is
stronger when the timing belt and interference engine could be damaged by a
damaged water pump. :-)

Some Audis, like my 4000S with the 4 cylinder, that rule is NA! :-)

JMHO
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"Frank" <NoSpam2Me@online.no> wrote in message
news:51i9bbF1k34bmU1@mid.individual.net...
> Robert knastet inn: :
>> Frank wrote:
>
>> As far as water pump goes, I am told by my Audi indy that the water pump
>> on my motor variant (AJL) is *not* driven off of the timing belt, though
>> it seems to be a universal truth on this forum that all water pumps are.
>
>
> That was not the point ...
>
> To replace the water pump _or_ the timing belt, 90% of the
> job is done - replacing the other one as well. The thumb
> rule - is to change both at the same time, to save work hours

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

I just ran into the same exact problem on the same application. It was
the thermostat.I picked up the part at the dealer.If you are not
mechanically inclined do not attempt to replace it.It has a plastic
housing and is behind the alternator and steering pump.It also has a
sensor on the housing.I went through the same thing replacing the green
sensor,it was not the problem.when i removed the whole housing and took it
apart i found that the plastic tabs that held the thermostat in place broke
off which caused the thermostat to remain open.I purchased the whole
housing,it came with everthing that i needed,it was a little over a $100
but worth it.replaced it and problem resolved.

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

I just ran into the same exact problem on the same application. It was
the thermostat.I picked up the part at the dealer.If you are not
mechanically inclined do not attempt to replace it.It has a plastic
housing and is behind the alternator and steering pump.It also has a
sensor on the housing.I went through the same thing replacing the green
sensor,it was not the problem.when i removed the whole housing and took it
apart i found that the plastic tabs that held the thermostat in place broke
off which caused the thermostat to remain open.I purchased the whole
housing,it came with everthing that i needed,it was a little over a $100
but worth it.replaced it and problem resolved.

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

I just ran into the same exact problem on the same application. It was
the thermostat.I picked up the part at the dealer.If you are not
mechanically inclined do not attempt to replace it.It has a plastic
housing and is behind the alternator and steering pump.It also has a
sensor on the housing.I went through the same thing replacing the green
sensor,it was not the problem.when i removed the whole housing and took it
apart i found that the plastic tabs that held the thermostat in place broke
off which caused the thermostat to remain open.I purchased the whole
housing,it came with everthing that i needed,it was a little over a $100
but worth it.replaced it and problem resolved.

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

I just ran into the same exact problem on the same application. It was
the thermostat.I picked up the part at the dealer.If you are not
mechanically inclined do not attempt to replace it.It has a plastic
housing and is behind the alternator and steering pump.It also has a
sensor on the housing.I went through the same thing replacing the green
sensor,it was not the problem.when i removed the whole housing and took it
apart i found that the plastic tabs that held the thermostat in place broke
off which caused the thermostat to remain open.I purchased the whole
housing,it came with everthing that i needed,it was a little over a $100
but worth it.replaced it and problem resolved.

Re: A4 1,8 TS coolant temp reads low
 

moparmadman wrote:
> I just ran into the same exact problem on the same application. It was
> the thermostat.I picked up the part at the dealer.If you are not
> mechanically inclined do not attempt to replace it.It has a plastic
> housing and is behind the alternator and steering pump.It also has a
> sensor on the housing.I went through the same thing replacing the green
> sensor,it was not the problem.when i removed the whole housing and took it
> apart i found that the plastic tabs that held the thermostat in place broke
> off which caused the thermostat to remain open.I purchased the whole
> housing,it came with everthing that i needed,it was a little over a $100
> but worth it.replaced it and problem resolved.
>
>

Thanks for this good info. I have just replaced the temp sensor but I
notice that the temp is now only a couple of degrees higher, so it may
indeed be a sticking thermostat.

Some questions:

1) was your only problem a low temperature or did you have other
symptoms that caused you to want to replace the thermostat?

2) did you have to remove more than the undertray to get to the pump, or
did you also have to remove the cowling around the timing belt?

3) were the plastic tabs broken through general wear and age, or did
they get broken as a result of your dismantling job?

4) Can you say more about this sensor on the housing - I cannot see one
in the pics on the Haynes manual, but their material is incomplete as a
matter of course.

Grateful for any additional info you can provide.

Thanks, Robert