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Very good, can anyone else verify this and what year the allroads came pre wired??????

seanmc

Latest score: 1move, 1 : Audi master guild tech, 0

So, I took the car to the local Audi dealership, and they said "No problem, we just recode the module to activate the DRLs.
They phone that afternoon to say " I guess we can't do that on the allroad as there is no electronic control module. We'll need to fit a DRL module kit. It's not the same as the A6."
That's the "bad" news, which I was half expecting after listening to everyone here.
The good news is that they replaced one of the airbags under CPO warranty, no questions asked, and the car runs like a dream. It's big and heavy and kinda thirsty, and doesn't handle like my A4, but there's nothing that can come close to it in comfort and versatility IMHO.

sliner6

Same experience here; the module is #9, which can be programmed from US to Canada as the country on a A4 or other cars, A6/All-road, especially with HID beam DON'T have a VAG-COM accessible lighting module.

Seems there was an issue once with some wiring getting burnt (99 i think) and then the load reducer relays were introduced.

Back to the solution, some people had success with shorting some pins on the module that is accessible by dismantling the inside of the glove-box.

The wiring solution with fuse-taps does not work on some cars since there is only ONE pin in the fuse holder for position 36 that is being powered from Fuse socket 27

This weekend, I was able to get my mechanic to go over the connections again and here is what we found.

For a US model car, the light switch has
- 3 twist positions; Off, Parking lights, Beam On
- 2 pull positions; Front fog on, Rear fog on (which work in the two ON positions mentioned above)

When high beam is activated from the level push behind the steering wheel, the fogs go off

If the fuse tap is in place, then having the first pull position with Parking/Beam on makes the fogs work as DRL

As luck would have it, we were testing with thin wire which was heating quick because of the ~10Amps that the wire was feeding

Will put in the tap today and update on how it works.

Its not the most elegant explaination, but i hope you get some clarity around the missing parts

UPDATE:
The fuse tap works and with light switch in position 1 pulled out 1 stop starts the front fog lights.
Pulled to position 2, the rear fogs also light up
When set to high-beam, the fogs turn off

Drove around a while, put in 10 amp fuses, driving the 55 watt (x2) lights. Wire was warm, but not insanely hot as it was in our test.

If you leave the fogs on while trying to exit the car, the light alarm still sounds.

So to have the fogs on, pull switch one position in first position before starting off. One advantage of such an arrangement is that you can turn them off, and when you start the car, there is no extra load on the battery

Tim Polzin

I'm guessing your light switch is the same as my 99 A6. Pin 3 of the light switch will provide power only with the ignition on and the light switch off. If you use that contact for DRL power, everything else should function as designed. A pigtail with connector is available from the dealer for about $6.

Tim

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Thanks for the Credit