cheeba

I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a good used 5-speed in the $500 range. A clutch/FW/PP will be in the $500-$1500 range depending on power capabilities. You should be able to get a decent Stage III+ kit for around the $1K mark.

If there's one thing that I've learned modifying vehicles, it's that you should have a clear goal in mind when you start, and don't half-*** anything - just buy what you really from the start. Nearly everyone who mod's seriously, buys stuff, then upgrades to something else, and, in the end, finally just buys what they really should have bought first, losing a lot of money every step of the way

bro460

So I found a set of coilovers used with 15,000kms on them for $375. They are ABT H&R full coilovers. No adjustability in rebound or compression but are adjustable in ride height. this seems like a pretty fair deal, any ideas or thoughts on this? (Cheeba) haha

cheeba

Buying used coilovers is always risky. You have to evaluate the risk vs. reward for yourself. At $375, if you can be reasonably sure that the seller is an upstanding person, I think it may be worth the risk. When buying a used suspension, you should be ready to accept that all of the dampers may need rebuilding. And, of course, don't buy something that doesn't suit your needs just because it's a good deal.

Also, as far as I know, ABT doesn't manufacture their own suspension kits, but they also aren't re-branded H&R coilovers; so, I don't know what's up with calling them ABT H&Rs - they're either one or the other. That said, I know ABT has worked with in the past, and is a very prominent German tuner. Although, maybe they are all re-branded H&Rs and I've just never picked up on it

bro460

So I have commenced work on the car... Replaced rh tie rod assy and got an alignment (84 bucks) and mounted my new winter tires that I only paid 300 bucks for on 16in rims... SCORE!!!! Drives so much nicer already And did some engine cleaning and a bath.

bro460

Sooooo, i've recently dicided to do the coolant flush that iv've been wanting to do anyway since I bought the car. Anitreeze is mud!!!!!! So much oil contamination it's crazy. Flushed and flushed it crazy and still more. I added a bottle of rad cleaner and am gonna run it for abit. Then do the fush again. At this time test and clean the oil cooler and the turbo. Also pressure test both. Mostly I am testing the turbo just cause i want to know it"s condition. As in a K04 swap now or after I've done other stuff to the car. This is a big factor on were I spend my time and money...

I will find out where the oil is coming from and yes there are no bubbles in the antifreeze but I do smell fuel... Immediatly thinking turbo now!!!! Gonna test the oil cooler in the next day or two and then the turbo. I am hoping the turbo is fine and it's the cooler. My money is best in suspension and exhaust work right now.

bro460

This is what I drained and flushed out of my cooling system. the car never overheats and actually barely will registar 90... It does puck out the overflow after I've been driving and park thou. Thinking turbo thou again. Turbo creating preesure and leaking oil. possible!!!

bro460

This how Iebded my flush. I did add cleaner and new antifrreze at this point. Gonna still flush it again after the cleaner get's a chance to work.

voodooca

Wow - that does not look pretty at all... oil in the coolant

Chad

cheeba

You're looking at a head-gasket leak, or an oil-cooler gasket leak. The coolant and oil lines to the turbo do not interface, so there's no way for them to have fluid contamination there. What does your oil look like? I wouldn't run the car until you figure out what's wrong with it.

If you do need to do the head-gasket, you should consider just building the engine now. Once the head is off, have it rebuilt with stainless intake and inconel exhaust valves, toss in some rods, and the engine is ready for 600HP! You can leave the block in when flex-honing it, but if it's unknown condition, you might want to pull it for some machine work. Of course, once you're that far along, a 2.0T is only a used AEG crank (from the naturally-aspirated 2.0L Golf/Jetta) and a set of $500 pistons away

bro460

I am doing some major digging in on this oil/coolant problem. The car NEVER smokes or has any bubbles in the coolant res. I am almost positive that it is a oil cooler. In the last two days I am down 3/4liter of oil again thou. Good ol Wes-Can will be supplying me with a oil cooler. They are cheap so I figured I would just buy it and do it since this has been a problem for some people.

If it does turn out to be a head gasket then I will be doing the head up and probably for now leave the bottom end alone until I get all the parts together to do it right. For now I want the engine to be solid and all the maintainance up to par.

I really want to spend my money on suspension and wheels and exhaust plus chip. Not full out engine build right now. Thanks for the tip on the 2.0 swap... I will be looking into that also when I am collecting all the parts for the long block build.

My buddy is looking at those coilovers for me and I will most likely be buying them. Not gonna put them in till spring most likely thou.