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DIY: HVAC In-dash motor cycling & whirring noises
10 Attachment(s)
Ever since I bought my B6 two years ago, these flap motors have been driving me crazy. For some reason, Audi didn't wire the HVAC to the ignition switch so these motors keeping whirring and cycling away when the potentiometers (pot) aren't sending the right voltages to the HVAC unit even when the ignition is turned off.
This is caused by the pots (contained inside of the motors units) accumulating dust that prevents proper readings (dead spots). Aside from replacing the motor units, the best fix is to remove each one and clean the pot contacts. VAG-COM codes I pulled to determine which motors are acting up: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl Part No: 8E0 820 043 L Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 63351 VCID: 2A50CA3CD6B1254EEA7-513C 2 Faults Found: 01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70) 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent 00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113) 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------- V70 is the Air Flap Control motor assembly mounted on the blower motor housing behind the glove box. It's the one with the light blue wheel. Since I was in there, I decided the clean the other (Air recirculation flap control) motor assembly too since it's right beside it. It's relatively easy if you are handy. Here are some of the tools you need: - Digital Volt Meter (DVM) - Precision (Jewelers) screwdriver set - Isopropyl (Rubbing) alcohol - Cotton swap (Q-Tip) Remove the glove box and motor assembly from the duct work. I won't describe it here because it's self explanatory. If it's not, you shouldn't even be attempting this procedure yourself. Make sure the motors have stopped completely before you remove them. This is so you can put it back later and have everything lined up in their resting positions. Again, this may take a while because they have a mind of their own, even with the key removed from the ignition. The hardest part is getting inside the motor assembly. It just takes patience and a light hand. *** WARNING: It's very easy to break the motor assembly tabs so be careful. *** I have found that it's easier to attack the smaller tab first (see Pic). Once this is separated, un-clasping the remaining tabs should be a cinch. Once the half casing has been removed, you can see the motor, gears and the pot (see pic). Before you do anything, mark the pot's initial position (see pic) so you can put it back in the same setting when re-assembling. Now carefully pry up on the pot to remove it from the assembly - it should pop out very easily. Since this is a center tap pot, meaning the center pin is the varying part of the resistor, one side's resistance is the difference of the other side (see pic). You'll figure this out when you play with the measurements. Across the outer pins, it's should be fixed at 5Kohm. Each leg with reference to the center should read between a couple hundred ohms to about 5Kohm. To check for dead spots in the pot, simply measure the resistance across the center pin to one of the outer pins while SLOWLY turning the pot one way or the other. Once you get a reading, keep turning slowly and you should see the meter jump around if there are dead spots. If you're using a digital meter, it may read OL or something like that because it's telling you that you're measuring an open circuit. Now clean the pot (see pic). With a very small precision screwdriver, pry the pot open (be careful not to pry too much or you'll break the pot) and take a cotton swap soaked with rubbing alcohol and rub it into the crack. You don't need too much rubbing alcohol, just enough to get a drop inside of the pot. Now give it a shake to saturate the inside with it and turn the pot a few of full turns each way to work in the rubbing alcohol. Don't do this too fast as you may induce additional wear on the pot. Once the rubbing alcohol has been worked in, let it dry a bit and measure the pot again. If done properly, it should give you a nice continuous reading between the center and one of the outer pins. Now measure the other outer pin and you should see the same smooth continuous reading. There shouldn't be any dead spots now unless the pot internals has completely worn away. If this is the case, there is no other choice than to replace the whole unit. If all your post cleaning measurements are good, re-assemble the motor assembly but make sure all the pins on the pot are lined up straight (not bent) with the motor pins. This will ruin your day if you plug it back into the car and bend or break the pins if they're not lined up. The last step is to re-calibrate the motors so your HVAC unit can get a handle on the new readings. You may or may not need this last step but if you have access to VAG-COM, why not?!? You might as well clear the old HVAC codes while you're doing the calibration. See this VAG-COM calibration taken from another post (not mine): -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I managed to find the basic setting for all the flaps. It's located at: Controller 08 - Auto HVAC Basic Settings - 04 Group 001 Go! There are about 10 values that come up but around 6 of them go through a cycle. You can hear them all moving to the upper range and find their limits and then they all move to the lower range and then they all reset back to 0. This takes about 60 seconds. The aircon stops while it's doing this and starts up again once completed. I went back into the Fault codes and it now shows No faults. Seems to have worked but I will have to put it to the test tomorrow when I drive the car to work. I'll update as to how it went, if I hear any more noises or if the fault codes come back up. Had same issue and was able to clear it by using Ross Tech to go to AC module - basic settings and having module perform a recalibration. took 2 minutes to move all flaps to min and max and find new zeros and then the noise and codes have been gone for 2 days now! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good luck! I'm trying to help other Audi owners with my own experiences, so if you find this post is of any value, please let me know with a response or a PM. It's only fair because of the time and effort it takes to do a proper write up. In other words, if I don't know my contribution is helping others, I may not have the incentive to post additional fixes. Thanks. |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
I don't have this problem but thanks for putting some good content out there!
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Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
4 Attachment(s)
It's been a week since I did these flap units and so far so good. When I went to re-calibrate the motor flaps with VAG-COM, I found another one that needs attention:
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl Part No: 8E0 820 043 L Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 63351 VCID: 2A50CA3CD6B1254EEA7-513C 1 Fault Found: 01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left ( V158 ) 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Needless to say, I needed to get this resolved as well. So I removed the drivers side knee panel and took a look at it. I wasn't too impressed at where it was located. It looked like a PITA and after spending about 3 hours, it ended up to be a PITA. I had to remove the accelerator pedal which is held in with 3 hex bolts (size: 5 mm). You may be able to remove the motor unit without removing the accelerator pedal but I doubt it. There's 2 up top and 1 at the bottom. The hardest one to remove was the upper right one. The flap motor unit has a red arm and held in with 3 screws (6mm) much like the other motor units described before. This is pretty challenging as well because there's no space to work under there. Once the screws are removed, the red arm is still attached to the flap arm so you need to line up the key slots before you can remove it (see picture). *** Again, make sure you know the position of the flap arm before removing the motor unit so you know how to re-assemble it properly. *** Once you remove it, the same procedure applies to clean the potentiometer inside the motor unit as described before. FYI, this pot's value is approximately 4.3Kohm if you really needed to know. It's a lot of work and lots of knuckle scraping but in the end it works very well if you are willing to put in the effort, especially this particular one. I'm willing to bet that my AC and heater will work better after all of this because these damn flaps won't be bouncing around opening and closing when they want to. Other than the noises they make, I haven't had decent heat in the winter nor decent cold air in the summer so I'm pretty confident these fixes should bear fruit. |
Re: DIY: HVAC In-dash motor cycling & whirring noises
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 191122)
Ever since I bought my B6 two years ago, these flap motors have been driving me crazy. For some reason, Audi didn't wire the HVAC to the ignition switch so these motors keeping whirring and cycling away when the potentiometers (pot) aren't sending the right voltages to the HVAC unit even when the ignition is turned off.
This is caused by the pots (contained inside of the motors units) accumulating dust that prevents proper readings (dead spots). Aside from replacing the motor units, the best fix is to remove each one and clean the pot contacts. VAG-COM codes I pulled to determine which motors are acting up: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl Part No: 8E0 820 043 L Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 63351 VCID: 2A50CA3CD6B1254EEA7-513C 2 Faults Found: 01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70) 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent 00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113) 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------- V70 is the Air Flap Control motor assembly mounted on the blower motor housing behind the glove box. It's the one with the light blue wheel. Since I was in there, I decided the clean the other (Air recirculation flap control) motor assembly too since it's right beside it. It's relatively easy if you are handy. Here are some of the tools you need: - Digital Volt Meter (DVM) - Precision (Jewelers) screwdriver set - Isopropyl (Rubbing) alcohol - Cotton swap (Q-Tip) Remove the glove box and motor assembly from the duct work. I won't describe it here because it's self explanatory. If it's not, you shouldn't even be attempting this procedure yourself. Make sure the motors have stopped completely before you remove them. This is so you can put it back later and have everything lined up in their resting positions. Again, this may take a while because they have a mind of their own, even with the key removed from the ignition. The hardest part is getting inside the motor assembly. It just takes patience and a light hand. *** WARNING: It's very easy to break the motor assembly tabs so be careful. *** I have found that it's easier to attack the smaller tab first (see Pic). Once this is separated, un-clasping the remaining tabs should be a cinch. Once the half casing has been removed, you can see the motor, gears and the pot (see pic). Before you do anything, mark the pot's initial position (see pic) so you can put it back in the same setting when re-assembling. Now carefully pry up on the pot to remove it from the assembly - it should pop out very easily. Since this is a center tap pot, meaning the center pin is the varying part of the resistor, one side's resistance is the difference of the other side (see pic). You'll figure this out when you play with the measurements. Across the outer pins, it's should be fixed at 5Kohm. Each leg with reference to the center should read between a couple hundred ohms to about 5Kohm. To check for dead spots in the pot, simply measure the resistance across the center pin to one of the outer pins while SLOWLY turning the pot one way or the other. Once you get a reading, keep turning slowly and you should see the meter jump around if there are dead spots. If you're using a digital meter, it may read OL or something like that because it's telling you that you're measuring an open circuit. Now clean the pot (see pic). With a very small precision screwdriver, pry the pot open (be careful not to pry too much or you'll break the pot) and take a cotton swap soaked with rubbing alcohol and rub it into the crack. You don't need too much rubbing alcohol, just enough to get a drop inside of the pot. Now give it a shake to saturate the inside with it and turn the pot a few of full turns each way to work in the rubbing alcohol. Don't do this too fast as you may induce additional wear on the pot. Once the rubbing alcohol has been worked in, let it dry a bit and measure the pot again. If done properly, it should give you a nice continuous reading between the center and one of the outer pins. Now measure the other outer pin and you should see the same smooth continuous reading. There shouldn't be any dead spots now unless the pot internals has completely worn away. If this is the case, there is no other choice than to replace the whole unit. If all your post cleaning measurements are good, re-assemble the motor assembly but make sure all the pins on the pot are lined up straight (not bent) with the motor pins. This will ruin your day if you plug it back into the car and bend or break the pins if they're not lined up. The last step is to re-calibrate the motors so your HVAC unit can get a handle on the new readings. You may or may not need this last step but if you have access to VAG-COM, why not?!? You might as well clear the old HVAC codes while you're doing the calibration. See this VAG-COM calibration taken from another post (not mine): -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I managed to find the basic setting for all the flaps. It's located at: Controller 08 - Auto HVAC Basic Settings - 04 Group 001 Go! There are about 10 values that come up but around 6 of them go through a cycle. You can hear them all moving to the upper range and find their limits and then they all move to the lower range and then they all reset back to 0. This takes about 60 seconds. The aircon stops while it's doing this and starts up again once completed. I went back into the Fault codes and it now shows No faults. Seems to have worked but I will have to put it to the test tomorrow when I drive the car to work. I'll update as to how it went, if I hear any more noises or if the fault codes come back up. Had same issue and was able to clear it by using Ross Tech to go to AC module - basic settings and having module perform a recalibration. took 2 minutes to move all flaps to min and max and find new zeros and then the noise and codes have been gone for 2 days now! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good luck! I'm trying to help other Audi owners with my own experiences, so if you find this post is of any value, please let me know with a response or a PM. It's only fair because of the time and effort it takes to do a proper write up. In other words, if I don't know my contribution is helping others, I may not have the incentive to post additional fixes. Thanks. I know that the thread is a bit old but can you please tell us step by step how you did the calibration? I was getting errors when I tried to do what you did and now I have an error code 01087 and a ticking noise behind the dash which I believe its one of the flaps Your help will be much appreciated. Thanks |
Re: DIY: HVAC In-dash motor cycling & whirring noises
Originally Posted by jnins5
(Post 193765)
Hey there
I know that the thread is a bit old but can you please tell us step by step how you did the calibration? I was getting errors when I tried to do what you did and now I have an error code 01087 and a ticking noise behind the dash which I believe its one of the flaps Your help will be much appreciated. Thanks I did exactly what I had posted using Vagcom: Controller 08 - Auto HVAC Basic Settings - 04 Group 001 Go! I didn't get any errors when I ran through this procedure. I don't know what the error you got is but could it be the pot wasn't put back in the right way on one of your flap modules? I'm assuming you took them apart to clean them as described. |
Re: DIY: HVAC In-dash motor cycling & whirring noises
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 193779)
Hi.
I did exactly what I had posted using Vagcom: Controller 08 - Auto HVAC Basic Settings - 04 Group 001 Go! I didn't get any errors when I ran through this procedure. I don't know what the error you got is but could it be the pot wasn't put back in the right way on one of your flap modules? I'm assuming you took them apart to clean them as described. When I hit go the 1st small window comes up with "ERROR" and the other 3 with "N/A". I can hear and feel the air moving through the vents but that's it. Doesn't do anything else... I haven't cleaned the motors yet as I want to do the calibration first because I have an S5 and by the looks of it its PITA to remove them... Any suggestions? Thanks |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
It seems this problem still exists, even with a newer model like your S5.
I would suggest removing some panels to see what exactly is making the clicking first. The error you're getting may be a compatability issue with older Vagcom software interfacing with a newer car. Or the same procedure in your newer car is found elsewhere in Vagcom and the steps I've outlined for my older B6 (2003 A4, 1.8TQ) doesn't apply to your chassis. I suspect it may be the latter. Check with Ross Tech for the correct procedure for your car. |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 193781)
It seems this problem still exists, even with a newer model like your S5.
I would suggest removing some panels to see what exactly is making the clicking first. The error you're getting may be a compatability issue with older Vagcom software interfacing with a newer car. Or the same procedure in your newer car is found elsewhere in Vagcom and the steps I've outlined for my older B6 (2003 A4, 1.8TQ) doesn't apply to your chassis. I suspect it may be the latter. Check with Ross Tech for the correct procedure for your car. I ve already submitted the issue to Ross-Tech because there are no labels for this module and I am still waiting... Looks like there are no side panels...They come off with the dash? I can send a picture later. I can only remove a panel which is under the glove box and maybe removing the glove box will be able to see the motors? Anyone can shed some light on this? Thanks |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
I just saw that you have a label for your HVAC and I don't...That's why maybe the calibration failed...
I could post a video with the ticking noise but I am not allowed to upload any MOV files |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Thanks for posting this Wayne. This information is still quite helpful
|
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Good to know that it's till useful.
Cheers! |
Re: DIY: HVAC In-dash motor cycling & whirring noises
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 191122)
Ever since I bought my B6 two years ago, these flap motors have been driving me crazy. For some reason, Audi didn't wire the HVAC to the ignition switch so these motors keeping whirring and cycling away when the potentiometers (pot) aren't sending the right voltages to the HVAC unit even when the ignition is turned off.
This is caused by the pots (contained inside of the motors units) accumulating dust that prevents proper readings (dead spots). Aside from replacing the motor units, the best fix is to remove each one and clean the pot contacts. VAG-COM codes I pulled to determine which motors are acting up: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl Part No: 8E0 820 043 L Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 63351 VCID: 2A50CA3CD6B1254EEA7-513C 2 Faults Found: 01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70) 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent 00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113) 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------- V70 is the Air Flap Control motor assembly mounted on the blower motor housing behind the glove box. It's the one with the light blue wheel. Since I was in there, I decided the clean the other (Air recirculation flap control) motor assembly too since it's right beside it. It's relatively easy if you are handy. Here are some of the tools you need: - Digital Volt Meter (DVM) - Precision (Jewelers) screwdriver set - Isopropyl (Rubbing) alcohol - Cotton swap (Q-Tip) Remove the glove box and motor assembly from the duct work. I won't describe it here because it's self explanatory. If it's not, you shouldn't even be attempting this procedure yourself. Make sure the motors have stopped completely before you remove them. This is so you can put it back later and have everything lined up in their resting positions. Again, this may take a while because they have a mind of their own, even with the key removed from the ignition. The hardest part is getting inside the motor assembly. It just takes patience and a light hand. *** WARNING: It's very easy to break the motor assembly tabs so be careful. *** I have found that it's easier to attack the smaller tab first (see Pic). Once this is separated, un-clasping the remaining tabs should be a cinch. Once the half casing has been removed, you can see the motor, gears and the pot (see pic). Before you do anything, mark the pot's initial position (see pic) so you can put it back in the same setting when re-assembling. Now carefully pry up on the pot to remove it from the assembly - it should pop out very easily. Since this is a center tap pot, meaning the center pin is the varying part of the resistor, one side's resistance is the difference of the other side (see pic). You'll figure this out when you play with the measurements. Across the outer pins, it's should be fixed at 5Kohm. Each leg with reference to the center should read between a couple hundred ohms to about 5Kohm. To check for dead spots in the pot, simply measure the resistance across the center pin to one of the outer pins while SLOWLY turning the pot one way or the other. Once you get a reading, keep turning slowly and you should see the meter jump around if there are dead spots. If you're using a digital meter, it may read OL or something like that because it's telling you that you're measuring an open circuit. Now clean the pot (see pic). With a very small precision screwdriver, pry the pot open (be careful not to pry too much or you'll break the pot) and take a cotton swap soaked with rubbing alcohol and rub it into the crack. You don't need too much rubbing alcohol, just enough to get a drop inside of the pot. Now give it a shake to saturate the inside with it and turn the pot a few of full turns each way to work in the rubbing alcohol. Don't do this too fast as you may induce additional wear on the pot. Once the rubbing alcohol has been worked in, let it dry a bit and measure the pot again. If done properly, it should give you a nice continuous reading between the center and one of the outer pins. Now measure the other outer pin and you should see the same smooth continuous reading. There shouldn't be any dead spots now unless the pot internals has completely worn away. If this is the case, there is no other choice than to replace the whole unit. If all your post cleaning measurements are good, re-assemble the motor assembly but make sure all the pins on the pot are lined up straight (not bent) with the motor pins. This will ruin your day if you plug it back into the car and bend or break the pins if they're not lined up. The last step is to re-calibrate the motors so your HVAC unit can get a handle on the new readings. You may or may not need this last step but if you have access to VAG-COM, why not?!? You might as well clear the old HVAC codes while you're doing the calibration. See this VAG-COM calibration taken from another post (not mine): -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I managed to find the basic setting for all the flaps. It's located at: Controller 08 - Auto HVAC Basic Settings - 04 Group 001 Go! There are about 10 values that come up but around 6 of them go through a cycle. You can hear them all moving to the upper range and find their limits and then they all move to the lower range and then they all reset back to 0. This takes about 60 seconds. The aircon stops while it's doing this and starts up again once completed. I went back into the Fault codes and it now shows No faults. Seems to have worked but I will have to put it to the test tomorrow when I drive the car to work. I'll update as to how it went, if I hear any more noises or if the fault codes come back up. Had same issue and was able to clear it by using Ross Tech to go to AC module - basic settings and having module perform a recalibration. took 2 minutes to move all flaps to min and max and find new zeros and then the noise and codes have been gone for 2 days now! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good luck! I'm trying to help other Audi owners with my own experiences, so if you find this post is of any value, please let me know with a response or a PM. It's only fair because of the time and effort it takes to do a proper write up. In other words, if I don't know my contribution is helping others, I may not have the incentive to post additional fixes. Thanks. I just register to said that you help me. I had problems on 4 flap motor on my A4. After cleaning everything works lik charm! |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
My pleasure. I'm glad its useful to others.
BTW, this may not be a permanent fix due to the properties of the isopropyl alcohol. My motors are starting to act up again. I may have to do this procedure again with electronic contact cleaner. Contact cleaner comes in an aerosol can with a tube so you can just squirt it in to the pot and clean from there. If anyone has done this fix, my apologies for cheaping out and using the alcohol. I should've use the contact cleaner in the first place. But the procedure shouldn't change. I wanted to edit the original post but I can't find a way to do so. |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Thx dude for update!
|
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 191200)
It's been a week since I did these flap units and so far so good. When I went to re-calibrate the motor flaps with VAG-COM, I found another one that needs attention:
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl Part No: 8E0 820 043 L Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 63351 VCID: 2A50CA3CD6B1254EEA7-513C 1 Fault Found: 01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left ( V158 ) 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Needless to say, I needed to get this resolved as well. So I removed the drivers side knee panel and took a look at it. I wasn't too impressed at where it was located. It looked like a PITA and after spending about 3 hours, it ended up to be a PITA. I had to remove the accelerator pedal which is held in with 3 hex bolts (size: 5 mm). You may be able to remove the motor unit without removing the accelerator pedal but I doubt it. There's 2 up top and 1 at the bottom. The hardest one to remove was the upper right one. The flap motor unit has a red arm and held in with 3 screws (6mm) much like the other motor units described before. This is pretty challenging as well because there's no space to work under there. Once the screws are removed, the red arm is still attached to the flap arm so you need to line up the key slots before you can remove it (see picture). *** Again, make sure you know the position of the flap arm before removing the motor unit so you know how to re-assemble it properly. *** Once you remove it, the same procedure applies to clean the potentiometer inside the motor unit as described before. FYI, this pot's value is approximately 4.3Kohm if you really needed to know. It's a lot of work and lots of knuckle scraping but in the end it works very well if you are willing to put in the effort, especially this particular one. I'm willing to bet that my AC and heater will work better after all of this because these damn flaps won't be bouncing around opening and closing when they want to. Other than the noises they make, I haven't had decent heat in the winter nor decent cold air in the summer so I'm pretty confident these fixes should bear fruit. Any advice on how I might be able to clean it up? |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Originally Posted by ddarziu
(Post 196531)
I have the exact same problem on my Audi A4 B7. My question is, how did you clean the pot on the Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left ( V158 )? As can be seen in the pictures, it's encapsulated and I don't think it's possible to pry it open as you've done with the pot from your first post.
Any advice on how I might be able to clean it up? It may be a possibility that Audi had changed it in the B7. I know that they do change even the smallest things from one year to the next. I.e. rear license plate light strip on the trunk (boot) was changed from metal in my 2003 B6 to a plastic strip in the 2005 B6. Sorry that I can't help if this is your case. Good luck though! |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Originally Posted by veedubb
(Post 196532)
Hi. I did it the exact same way as the others. I don't remember it being any different than the others if yours is the same type in my pictures.
It may be a possibility that Audi had changed it in the B7. I know that they do change even the smallest things from one year to the next. I.e. rear license plate light strip on the trunk (boot) was changed from metal in my 2003 B6 to a plastic strip in the 2005 B6. Sorry that I can't help if this is your case. Good luck though! I installed the part, did the Basic Settings - Alignment and it successfully got everything to zero. After this I scanned for errors and it's all clear. I've tested the HVAC by going from LO (cold air comes in as expected) to HI (here it's not as hot as I'd like it to be) and it's opening/closing the flaps ok. I think I might have to clean the heater core though, 'cause on HI it's not really HI.. |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
It sounds like you are having cabin heat issues. Unfortunately, this is pretty common on our B6/B7 chassis'. If that's the case, refer to the following post for rudimentary checks and bleeding of your cooling system.
It is a good idea to flush out your heater core (HC) forwards and backwards, and ensure you have no possible leaks. Also check your thermostat, J-plug, etc. As you can see from the linked post, I finally found out how to get all the air out of my system with a cold bleed. It's a quick and simple method after you have made sure your cooling system is in good shape. Remember that there are two places to bleed out air: the first is the bleed screw in the hard line that runs along the length of the 1.8T engine and the other is through a small hole in the top HC inlet hose. Here's the link: Heater problem |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Hi, I have a similar problem with my 2008 S5, whenever I start the car there is a clunk clunk noise coming from the dash/airvents and this can last for up to 5mins and even does it when the climate control is off.
I have taken the glovebox out and exposed the 2 motors and also the flaps, the flaps I can see are operating correctly. If I disconnect the motors (pull the power cable out) then the noise stops, however I then have no control over the heat/cold air in the car. The flap that seems to be stuck appears to be in the middle of the dash. I have 2 fault codes - Positioning motor for temp flap l-V158 Any help would be much appreciated as I can't live with it like this. Cheers, Jamie. |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
The sensor is a 5k-ohm potentiometer made by Piher Sensing Systems. The part description is HVAC 3. Cleaning potentiometers is always a temporary fix, ideally it would be great to be able to buy a new sensor and drop it in instead. I looked online, and it seems it's a custom part, so no one seems to sell it.... but, maybe some one could buy a minimum order and sell them to Audi / VW folk like us on EBAY?
Just a thought ;) Piher: HVAC 3 |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Here's another tip for running the flap calibration routine. If you press the ECON or A/C button at the same time as the button which directs the air straight at you, this will initiate a calibration of the FLAPS. The digital temperature display will show all segments, and the computer will do a 2 minute calibration (you'll here the flaps moving).
It worked for my EOS 2007. See the Youtube video at: |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Originally Posted by Geek@Audi
(Post 197524)
The sensor is a 5k-ohm potentiometer made by Piher Sensing Systems. The part description is HVAC 3. Cleaning potentiometers is always a temporary fix, ideally it would be great to be able to buy a new sensor and drop it in instead. I looked online, and it seems it's a custom part, so no one seems to sell it.... but, maybe some one could buy a minimum order and sell them to Audi / VW folk like us on EBAY?
Just a thought ;) Piher: HVAC 3 here is link to new potenciometer from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/23275280617...84.m1558.l2649 or find words "VW Skoda Audi Seat A/C clima positioning flap motor actuator new potentiometer" |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Thx mister veedubb
I just register to said that you help me. I had problems on 3 flap motor on my A4 B6 After cleaning everything works. TY |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
Thank you for writing this tutorial, i managed to save quite a lot of money.
However, i used a special potentiometer cleaner spray and i advice everyone to use it, it cleans the dirt and also has a special lubricant in order for the potentiometer to slide correctly. Cheers! |
Re: DIY: HVAC flap motor potentiometer cleaning
I think this might be the problem I have. My issue is that my AC is now shot. Could this problem lead to that? I ask because my mechanic is hesitant to change all the main components of the AC (compressor etc) when it’s still throwing a code that the environment controls are off (something they are insisting u go to the dealership to confirm which seems like overkill). Because I am not a mechanic and I will not be doing the work myself, I can not confirm the exact codes it is giving them. However, I wanted to determine whether fixing the larger components is even worth it when this problem would still exist. I suppose I could have them go ahead and do what you suggested to see if that clears the code. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help!
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