Show starts at 1PM officially and goes until 5PM. We will supply BBQ, Fridge, coolers. Come out and support one of our sponsors!! http://www.audiforum.ca/showthread.php?t=68646
I had to remove my oil pan this week and I was shocked to find that there is no DIY for how to remove a sump, but lots of people seem to be looking for information about this job. I took photos of my experience so here goes:
Before I start, this is a difficult job. If you have never replaced a transmission, engine or clutch in a front wheel drive car, DON'T ATTEMPT! I rate this a 7.5/10
First Step:
Take the car to an air conditioning specialist and have the air conditioning system discharged.
Second step:
Unhook battery
Third step:
Put this front clip in the service position . This just means taking weight off the front end. After doing this remove all the bottom covers to expose the oil pan.
Fourth step:
Support the transmission using a jack and wood so you don't damage the transmission. Remove the lower A/C line off the compressor.
Fifth Step:
Loosen the rear bolts (one on each side) for the front sub-frame. Do NOT take them out. Loosen them so about 1 inch is sticking out.
Next:
Drain the oil from the engine. Remove the oil pan engine mount and turbo return line.
Next:
Remove the bottom engine mount bolts on the left and right side engine mounts.
Next:
This step is optional. I found it easier to access some of the oil pan bolts at the back of the pan but you can do this job without this step. I removed the coolant reservoir and throttle body.
Next:
Place another jack under the front of the sub-frame. Remove the front sub-frame bolts (there are 3 on each side). Lower the sub-frame using the jack. The sub-frame should drop about 8 inches. This drop will allow you to access the rear oil pan bolts.
Next:
Undo all the oil pan bolts. You will need a 16mm socket and a 10mm socket. Unhook the oil level sensor. Now is the tricky part. I wish I had a guide to tell me about the 2 hidden bolts. There are 2 windows between the transmission and oil pan. Inside these windows you will see the fly wheel. Turn the fly wheel until you see a gap in the fly-wheel and through that gap you see a bolt. You will need a LONG 5mm hex-key to get both these bolts out. Good luck finding one. I found one at Brafasco. I then modified the end with a grinder so it was a flat end and less likely to damage the hex-key bolt. REMEMBER: If you damage this hex-key bolt you will have to remove the transmission and flywheel to get the oil pan off!!!!
Next:
Using a 2x4, pry the sub-frame down enough to remove the oil pan.
Next:
Remove the oil pan. Inspect and clean.
Next:
Apply a thin bead of silicone (buy from Audi!) to the mating surface of the oil pan. REMEMBER: if you over-do the silicone and it gets into the engine that can spell the end of your 1.8 Turbo. They have small oil journals that can be easily clogged.
Next:
Allow the silicone to set for 20 to 30 minutes before installing the oil pan. You want it to start to get tacky. Pry down the sub-frame and install the oil pan. Snug one bolt and each side to start to hold the pan in place.
Next:
Locate the transmission windows and re-install the 2 bolts behind the flywheel. REMEMEBER: These don’t have to be very tight. If you damage them the next person to have to remove this pan is going to be VERY angry.
Next:
Follow all steps in reverse. Fill with oil and anti-freeze. Clean up and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.
Who-ever decided to place those two hidden bolts inside the bell housing should be shot. I was able to remove one of the two, but the bolt in the closer to the center has been fighting me for the last 3 hours. I simply cannot get this bolt out
The car is automatic, and i have placed it in neutral (with the e-brake on) however spinning the flywheel is nearly impossible. Does anyone know of the best way to gain access to flywheel, without dropping the entire subframe/engine/transmission!??!
Thanks in advance for the assistance. Stupid sludge got the best of me