j hillard

Just purchased a 2012 Audi TT RS....the brakes screach like crazy...have returned it to the dealership 3 times...no luck in their repairs...they have replaced the pads, etc...any ideas?

cheeba

Did you break-in the pads? Google Stoptech's or Wilwood's (or any reputable brake manufacturer) procedure for it.

Audimuscle

My friend had same issue till he took it to the track. I guess all the hard braking worked it in

mferreira424

I bought a used 2010 TTS a couple weeks ago, same issue. I've brought it in twice now. They've removed pads and rotors, sanded them. Didn't work. They've advised they're going to contact Audi to see what else they can do. One sales person told me it's a characteristic of the brakes...not quite buying that one.

InTTruder

Usually, high performance pads squeal a bit until heated up. Do the bedding procedure described, then avoid trail braking on city streets. This will only exacerbate the squealing.

Audi has TB, but it appears they're chamfering the edges of the existing pad. Odd that- they should already be chamfered.

InTTruder

And heating up a hipo pad takes a bit of speed and consistent pedal.

Stevelev

My TTS brakes have never been an issue but I drive my car fairly hard. Had some vibration and squeeking on a prior car (S4 Avant) shortly after buying it (2nd hand). After a bed-in procedure, never had a problem afterwards.

Unfortunately, the TTRS seems to have more brake squeeking issues but my money is on them not being driven the way they're meant to be ... lots of TTRS guys on Fourtitude so perhaps the OP can a find "fix" there.

From Stoptech's website:

Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Jim Beam

I have the same issue since I picked up my TT-RS two weeks ago. I reduced the noise by cleaning them every day or two to remove the heavy accumulation of brake dust

Joelc_TTRS

The problem essentially goes away after a bit...I know have 2,600 kms on my 4 month old TTRS and the brakes no longer squeak, not even in cold weather...

Joel

Jim Beam

Thanks, good to hear. After 1100km things are starting to improve.