z261994

I'll just go through the main problems for now... read through them and give your input. Any help is better than none, so post anything. Thanks in advance

Bought my 1995 Cabriolet cheap because the transmission is in fail-safe mode. It has the 2.8 and 4 speed auto. I was told it was an electrical connection on the trans not making contact and that a new connector was around $100. That's all the info I got when I bought it. Today I poked around and found only one electrical connection on the top of the trans on the passenger side. It was a 2-pin plug. It was clean, but I took it out and cleaned it anyways... that didn't solve my problem. I also used an ohm-meter and found that both wires went to ground (wiring connector side, not plugged into trans). I don't have any clue what the wiring is even for, but I figured it didn't hurt to check and have more info for you guys.

I then went and had the codes scanned and had a few things checked out. I had a few engine codes on because of emissions stuff (found the problems right away) and those cleared out and didn't come back on after restarting the car. The other codes I got are as follows:

00518 Throttle Position Sensor - Signal Out of Range (G69) Also check for loose ECM power relay.

00293 Multi-Function Transmission Range Switch - Malfunction (PRNDL Input) (F125)

00281 Vehicle Speed Sensor - No Signal (G68 )

00638 (the big one) Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2. Also check for loose ECM power relay.

Everything seems to be related.

The VSS error seems odd to me because the speedo and tach still work fine.

What connection is electrical connecton 2??? Is that on the trans, engine, body, or ECM/TCM connection... and what plug is it exactly? If I know that much I can probably sort this all out in a matter of a couple hours. Also seeing as it's telling me to check for a loose ecm power relay for 2 of the codes, where is the relay so I can check it? Hell, where is the ECM? I did find the TCM behind the back seat and check the electrical connector there (free of corrosion and fine).

I found this artice on the F125 switch... different model, but same switch code came up (and I was told there was a corroded connection too.. apparently checked out by an Audi dealer). This *could* be my problem.

url here....

I did some research and found a TSB on a different model that may also be my problem. It's that the wiring is stretched tight and breaks around the connectors that hold it to the body. Anyone know about this?

url here...

Mostly what I need to know is what electrical connection is the code referring to as "electrical connection 2"? If I know that, I'll be in a lot better shape.



My second big problem is that the car was getting pretty hot for only being driven short distances (yes, I'm driving it a little in fail-safe mode just to get everything sorted out). I dug around and ended up checking out the fuses. At that time I noticed a fuse missing for the fan and 2 relays as labeled for the fan also missing. There are two rows of 4 relays. The first relay was the bottom right, and was label low range or something of the sort. That spot was dirty and it didn't look like there had ever been a relay plugged in. The second was in the top row second from the left. This was just labeled fan relay and there was certainly one plugged in at one time. I replaced the fuse, but I need to know which relays need to be replaced (mostly, does the lower right need to be there), and what relays do I need to order? This is the relay I found through a parts site, but I need to know if it's the right one:

url here... (it's a Meyle brand part # P2020-64184 40A Electric Fan relay)

Third big problem is that nearly none of the HVAC system works. This has the three *****, not the computer system like the later years, just so you know. There is hot air coming from all vents all the time; I can't change the temp or get it shut off. I can turn the fan on to full and make it blow out, but only the top speed works. Temp doesn't change at all with the ****, and airflow direction can't be chaged either... it's just simply hot air always flowing from all vents, and fan can be turned on at highest setting only. Are the vents vacuum or electrically controlled?



I'm going to start with these three problems and try to sort them out before getting into anything else. I thank anyone in advance for any help.


argh... sorry for the lack of URL's. I guess I can't post any till I have 5 posts here. I will put them up when I have another 3 posts, or I can PM them to anyone that would like them.

theinfamousone

Hey, I feel your pain. I have a '94 Cab and my HVAC system is EXACTLY the same way. I don't know what the deal is, I don't know if the AC doesn't work, I am no where near your level of gear headedness, if you can figure out what the deal is, send me a PM. If you'd like, I can take a picture of my fuse box and maybe you can configure yours the same way (got a better idea?). I have had mine for 2 years, in that time I've put a new transmission in, and dealt with endless hydraulic issues with the convertible top. At this point I just do it manually and I'm not about to dump any more money (and time...countless hours... ) into it. It is truly a love - hate relationship in my driveway

z261994

I took out everything in the center of the dash a few days ago. None of the stock wiring connectors were plugged in and there were only two seperate wires were plugged in (one power and one to the blower motor). I'm ordering new heater controls (just emailed for quotes frpm differeny places a few hours ago), and I'm having them include the wiring connectors and a few inches of wiring attached... then I'm taking it somewhere to get fixed. I'm sick of wiring crap on this car.

I've also done a ton of troubleshooting on the trans problem. I replaced the multifunction switch and it didn't fix anything. Long story short, I took it somewhere and we're 99% sure the TCU is malfunctioning.

theinfamousone

So what was wrong with the heater controls? I'm wondering if I would have to order the same parts. Can you give me any pointers on how to take it apart or an idea of where to take it to get it fixed lol?

z261994

Nothing is wrong with my actual controls; mine just stick and it bugs me, so I want new ones.

The real problem is that I need the entire system rewired. Yours might be the same deal, or it might not be... I can't say without seeing it. If you're not familiar with wiring, I wouldn't tear into it.

Always, always, take your car to get fixed at an independant shop. With the heater problem, you can take it anywhere and they should be able to fix it.

To remove the center dash piece:
-pull off the three ***** on the heater controls; they pull straight off
-pull out left and right side vents, again pull straight out
-remove 4 8mm bolts, one in each corner
-the whole center section should come straight out now

theinfamousone

What's weird is that I have called the Utah audi dealership and their prices are about half what my audi dealerships in Oregon want for parts. I thought of Utah because I used to live in Provo and when I would get parts at the dealership there they were still expensive but not astronomically expensive. You could try them and have them fedex you parts.

z261994

I found a good used unit for $75, so I'm all set on parts.

ktownboostn

I'm gonna say your resistor pack for your Heater fan is faulty. Most likeley why you are only able to get the High speed.

ktownboostn

check either Under the Rain tray ... or Somehwere in the passenger front footwell area for the ECM. You should try and find a Repair manual for it. They usually have Fuse/Relay Locations in them. Unless you can find one online somwhere