taylorgruben

Hi MotorFabrik,

Today I was on my way to an advanced driver course, when about 1 km from home the car started shuddering. The ECP light came on, then the engine light came on solid. The car would hardly run under 2000 rpm, it jumped and jerked and shudddered. I turned around and limped it home.

Last week I had the APR stage 1 upgrade. I am not sure if this is related. I reset the ECU back to stock to see if that would resolve the issue. No change. I do not have a device to read the codes. I can not drive it, so will have to get it towed into the shop.

Any idea what it may be.

MotorFabrik

hey farrous,

It helps slightly...a video would help out a lot more. There is no CEL right?

How does it idle when it starts up faster? Does it happen after the car sits for a while? All you are hearing is a louder motor? Not a starter or leaky exhaust right?

Still need a bit more info but something that could lead to a louder/high-rev start up would be a faulty coolant temp sensor..the computer dumps extra fuel on start up.

MotorFabrik

Ahh I see..which 1.8T do you have? For the AWM, you have to remove both the coolant tank and disconnect the harness underneath. Just three screws for the tank and be careful with the harness. There is another black harness that has to be unplugged right on top of where the serial number is located. Get a flash light and from the side you should be able to read it. May have to spray some degreaser and squeze a rag in there to clean up the area.

MotorFabrik

hey taylor,

The EPC (electronic power control) could be a number of things...usually an issue with either the throttle body/position, MAF, accelerator pedal (and sometimes very rarely coils/plugs). Reading the CEL would point us in the right direction pretty much instantly.
First thing to check if you can is remove the MAF. Once removed, run the car...does it make a difference?
If it is the MAF, do not try and clean it...has to be replaced.
Keep the tune stock until the issue can be resolved.
Sucks missing the course

taylorgruben

Thanks MF, Yes bummer to nmiss the course my B-day gift. It is off to Audi tomorrow. Hopefully all under warranty items.

MotorFabrik

Hopefully they can get it sorted out for you ASAP. Rain check on the course?

Happy birthday for what its worth

MotorFabrik

Hey taylor,

Out of curiosity, was the dealership able to provide a diagnosis?

Imeeaudi

I have had a small coolant leak for the past few week and as long as I kept coolant in it everything was fine. Well a couple of days ago I lost the coolant cap and drove with it off for a handful of miles, the car shut off and now will not start. I poured coolant back in it and got a new cap but still it won't start, the interior dash blinks few good amount of times and when I turn the key there is just a few empty clicks that sounds. My friend is telling me that the alternator needs to be replaced.

Does anyone know what may have happened and perhaps what I should do about this little predicament?

Thanks

bakerm

Hi MF
Just got myself into a bind. While changing my camshaft tensioner the tension tool broke after I removed tensioner and camshafts on driver side. The marks came off of the camshaft sprockets and chain came off so now I have no way of lining them up for proper timing. Is there a way to line them up once this happens? My concern is how will I know if valves are in proper position even if I have 16 rollers between the camshafts sprockets once I reassemble the camshafts and tensioner? Or are valves not under a lot of tension when locked at TDC. I also had the crankshaft lock tool installed. I did fine a diagram showing the notches on crankshafts and they lined these up with 16 rollers between them. Will this work or is there more involved? Below is the link for the diagram and a picture of how I would line up my camshafts once I replace chain. Wings on cams will also be in correct position(large holes facing in).

Mark

[url]http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/boarderline014/2011-10-07_195832_aa.jpg

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Audiophile1178/Audi%202_8%20A6/IMG_5035.jpg

taylorgruben

Hi MF,
coil pack on #3 cyl was gone. No other issues. I had them replace the other 3 at the same time. Cost was 70.00 for the 3 coil packs, labour was covered under warranty.

All good in the A3 again. Thanks for the follow up