williebone

Hello everyone, I can't seem to get my VCDS Report to Upload from my Computer to explain what problems I am having for your help.

I now have a direct link to Just Answers.com regarding my Session with Audi Techs. I had them remove all personal data from the Transcripts, but somehow they gumbled part of the First VCDS Report. However thats not that important since the Last VCDS Report shows the Faults that can not be Cleared. Just click on the"Read More" button to expand the Session Log. You then will know my Pain at this moment that I'm having and being an Annalytical Problem Solver makes this a Thorn In My Side.

justanswer.com/questions/36ubn-ok-im-going-to-give-this-a-try-heres-what-ive-been-up

(For some reason I can't get the above link active, so please copy/paste to Browser)

I am looking forward to the Responses from those that know this Car. Thanks Williebone

P.S. BTW before someone ask which VCDS I'm using, it is the HEX-CAN+USB recommended by Ross-Tech. Also, if possible please keep the above link in your Reply so that everyone can find it.

williebone

I can't get the above Link active, so please copy & paste to Browser.

I was really hoping to have some suggestions at this point, but I guess maybe that I was a little to Impersonal with my approach. So, here is a short of the problems. I did an Aftermarket Upgrade to the Sound System and I beleive from cycling the Ignition over and over again thru out the Install has created problems.

I now have Parking Brake Symble, Parking Brake Warning, Brake Warning and Warning Buzzers along with a new Airbag Warning Light. There is no Power to the Left Parking Brake Motor and MMI has gone Dead. I have been on justanswer.com working with an Audi Tech and was looking for some input regarding my Problem Solving Session with him. I tried Copying the Session to a Word File along with my VCDS Report, but the File was too large to Upload so I Zip Filed it (compressed).

The above Link to justanswer.com take you directly to my Session with the Audi Tech so that you can understand what led up to my DTCs and Dead MMI. I know it may seem like an added step to do in order get my story, but I tend to be Very Long Winded and I know that I will get alot of questions. I only thought that it wasn't neccessary to repeat it all over again, so please help me out. Thanks, Willie

wailshark

Can't access the justanswer link right now...maybe its my browser so I guess i'll try from another comp. later.

williebone

The Link is working now. Thanks

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...at-ive-been-up

P.S. I noticed the above Link is a little slow, so please be patient. Thanks

Ok, it's time to share some info since I see some would rather have the Story Up Front and Pesonal. I'm a DIYer and Very Tech Savy. It take me a very long time to complete a project from start to finish because I'm Mathotical in my approach to everything (annalytical). My first A8 (D2) had a Professional System Upgrade to the Sound System not because I couldn't do it myself, but because of time. The only thing I did was research Speaker Replacement to fit OEM Cut-Outs and removed Ski-Thru for Custom Subwoofer Application. I settled with JL Audio (441) which allows you to keep Factory OEM HU an all applicable controls (steering/nav/etc..) and by-pass bose amp. This is the only way to add Aftermarket Amps and keep your Factory Look. I lived in Heaven with the New Sound System until I decided to Sell the car and move to the D3. I removed all aftermarket equipment myself and put the D2 back to Factory Specs and said goodby to the car.

Now for the Black w/ Smoke Gray Leather D3 Mods: 20mm Spacers on the Rear & 15mm Spacers on the Front (All Bolt On from ECS) and stayed with my 12 Spoke Turbines/ Audi Logo Valve Caps. Added Custom Grey Leather Logo Seat Belt Pads/ Custom Grey Leather Logo Seat Over-Lays/ Trunk Molded Rear Lip Spoiler/ Rear Glass Spoiler/ Dual Vent Low-Profile Wind Diflector. SoundSytem Upgrade: Replaced 8" Front Door Subs w/7" Full Range Woofers/ Added 2" Silk Dome Tweeters to Front Door Grills/ Replaced L & R Dash Mids with 2" Mids all tied to 3-Way Electronic Passive Cross-Overs. Replaced Rear Door Woofers & Tweeters w/ 7" Full Range/ Added 2" Silk Dome Tweeters tied to 2-Way Electronic Passive Cross-Overs. Removed Ski-Thru and Built Custom Contoured Shallow Box (H-15"xW-14"xD-7" @ 0.35 cubic. ft.) using 3" Shallow Mount 10" Subwoofer. Built Custom Epuipment Rack: (W-12"xH-14"xD-14") Covered both w/Matching Carpet. Epuipment: CDT Cross-Overs/Soudstream Stealth Amps (320/4 & 600/1 Small Stackable Units)/Audio Control ESQ & 2XS/JL Audio (SSI & 441). Sound Deadened all Aluminum Panels in the 4 Doors. Power Wired directly to Battery using 4 guage Power Wire w/110 Amp Cut-Off Relay Switch (Service & Repair). The Ground Wire is connected to Left Side of Trunk Floor using an existing Ground Point that is Utilizing an existing Ground Wire from Some Unit in the Left Rear. The Power and Ground are running to a D-Block with a Heavy Duty Quick Disconnect for Removal of Equipment. The Entire Aftermarket Set-UP is Carry & Go with Disconnects on anything running to the Equipment Rack as well as the Sub Box. There is Very Little Loss of Luggage Space and done this way because I travel alot.

There is no Alteration to the Body or Panels. Everything in the Equipment Rack runs to the D-Block on the Rack. There is 1 Unit in the Rack that is responsible for Remote Turn On of all of the Aftermarket Equpment. That 1 Unit's Remote Turn On Wire is connected to the Bose Amp's Yellow/White Wake Up Wire which is Common in the A8's wiring Diagram. I have the Bentley Publishing Service Manual which is how I know about Sevicing/Repair/Location/Wiring & Dismantalling of this car. So, because the D3 is Optical, you have to tap the Speaker Wires after the Bose Amp and then Sum the Signals (JLA-SSI) to get a Full Range Sound and cancel the EQ Curve and Cross-Over Point (JLA-441). The Bose Front Channel provides HF, Front Doors Subs provides MF, and 12" Sub provides LF. You now have clean signal source to use any aftermarket equipment with the Bose Premium Systems be it Foreign or Domestic. There is nothing Better than driving the Best Car on market with the Best Sound System which runs rings around Bose & B&O both combined. However, you have to be an Audiophile to appreciate the Detail in good quality music and I listen to all Genera of Music. This Mod Project was 4 months into the making with everything from research/planning/& execution. The last 3 or 4 weeks were the Powering and Tuning Process of the Sound System only because of my need to be Perfect. This entails setting cross-over slopes, setting filters, setting output levels, setting equalization. I have the 12" Factory Sub disconnected at the Sub, the Front Dash Center & Rear Shelf Fill Speaker wires were cut in the Trunk. Using these Speakers with the Aftermarket System shows the Bose Flaws. The front Dash L & R Speaker wire is cut also, but I used the existing wire to the 2 Dash Speakers as an after-thought due to missing frequency range in the Front Sound Staging. I will eventually add 2 Rear Fills in the Rear Shelf. Other than the Front Dash Speakers, I ran New 14 guage Wire to the New Speakers, but the existing Bose Wiring as well as Harness/Connectors are still in place and sealed with Electrical Tape so that I can re-install Factory Equipment when I sell the car.

So, this is where my problem begins. It was during the testing stage Powering and tuning in the garage without a charger that I would often drain the Battery down to Low or Dead. I would do this and have to jump the Battery and drive the car to get the power back up. I would often ignore the warning "Start Engine in 3 Minutes" that would pop up on the Screen. I would do this by turning the Key/Ignition to the right without starting the car to get rid of the Message. Sometimes this process would go on every 5 minutes or so until she would just die. My tuning takes hours, Days, and Weeks. After being annoyed by this, I went out and bought an All in 1 Multi Charger (charger/trickler/jumper/monitor/etc..) and connected it directly to the Battery Post. I just found out what the Ground Stud by the EMC is used for lol! Needless to say, I was now able to carry out my entinsive tuning process only stopping when the battery was low or dead and I would then throw it on the Charger. I then got smart and starting testing with the charger running. Well then the Symptoms started: Could not access the Car Function Button on the MMI (it would freeze/reset MMI everytime), the Parking Brake Symble appearded. Ok, no biggy and I can live with that until I'm done with the Install. One day I was out and decided to pull the Parking Brake Lever to see what happens and that's when the system malfunctioned and would not release. After several tries, it was drivable, but now there is the Flashing Parking Brake Light and Brake Light (Pads). Now there is this annoying Buzzer that happens at every take off from a still position and finally Dead MMI. I always take great precaution with everything I do in life and this was no different, but being human has its shortfall even for a Perfectionist! I know that the DTCs that was posted in the Link were easy to clear, but the ones that will not clear are the ones that deal with MMI & Parking Brake (specifically the no power to left PB). These problems can occur on their own as I've read from various Audi Forums, but I think that I triggered my problems and hoping that someone can point to the Fault based on my particular information.

I warned everyone that I can be long winded, but I'm being Up Front and Personal.

wailshark

From what I gather in the bottom part of your post you had the car on WHILE trickle charging from a portable battery charger?

What model is the charger and does it have auto-shutoff when the battery is charged?

ok2000A8

What did you do with "cut wires" from previous speakers and/or audi system? If they weren"t taped, they could still be active somehow and ends in contact with conductive surfave leading to a small short circuit draining power. Just a guess at this point.

ok2000A8

I had a friend who did a similar massive upgrade to the sound system and due to the standby draw on the battery from the new amps, he drained battery, so needed to install a second battery just for sound system and run charge wires from alternator to second battery. Another friend doing a similar high end upgrade needed to upgrade vehicle alternator to next size up. Most of this equipment probably draws power even when shut off. Get a vehicle electrical report on draw when car is off. Could also just be a faulty battery. Get battery load test. I know that when the voltage drops way too low that often alarms go off. Problems range from simple to complex. Good luck.