wtrplnet

"RubEric" <RubEric@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1163531796.353526.306650@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>
> wtrplnet wrote:
>> >
>> > Alan:
>> >
>> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
>> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
>> > are about $65 ea.
>> >
>> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
>> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
>> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
>> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
>> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
>> > upper strut bushing.
>> >
>> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
>> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
>> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
>> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>> >
>> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
>> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
>> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>> >
>> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
>> > (RubEric@aol.com
>> >
>> > Eric.
>> >
>>
>> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
>> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
>> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over
>> the
>> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>>
>> Alan
>
> Alan:
>
> That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
> need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
>
> Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
> triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
> self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
> mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
> There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
> the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
> with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
> end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
> allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
> the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
> removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
> the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
> turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
>
> Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
> there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
> that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
> protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
> surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
> this part.
>
>
> There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
> to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
>
> Eric
>

Eric, I'm not the original poster, I just gave my 2 cents worth mainly about
being careful if using a spring compressor. I've replaced strut cartridges
many times, years ago, when it was a LOT more work! I'll use your advice
when I inherit my mothers A6 and put a set of Bilsteins on it.

Alan

wtrplnet

"RubEric" <RubEric@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1163531796.353526.306650@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>
> wtrplnet wrote:
>> >
>> > Alan:
>> >
>> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
>> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
>> > are about $65 ea.
>> >
>> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
>> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
>> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
>> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
>> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
>> > upper strut bushing.
>> >
>> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
>> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
>> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
>> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>> >
>> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
>> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
>> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>> >
>> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
>> > (RubEric@aol.com
>> >
>> > Eric.
>> >
>>
>> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
>> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
>> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over
>> the
>> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>>
>> Alan
>
> Alan:
>
> That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
> need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
>
> Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
> triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
> self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
> mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
> There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
> the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
> with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
> end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
> allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
> the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
> removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
> the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
> turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
>
> Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
> there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
> that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
> protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
> surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
> this part.
>
>
> There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
> to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
>
> Eric
>

Eric, I'm not the original poster, I just gave my 2 cents worth mainly about
being careful if using a spring compressor. I've replaced strut cartridges
many times, years ago, when it was a LOT more work! I'll use your advice
when I inherit my mothers A6 and put a set of Bilsteins on it.

Alan

wtrplnet

"RubEric" <RubEric@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1163531796.353526.306650@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>
> wtrplnet wrote:
>> >
>> > Alan:
>> >
>> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
>> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
>> > are about $65 ea.
>> >
>> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
>> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
>> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
>> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
>> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
>> > upper strut bushing.
>> >
>> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
>> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
>> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
>> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>> >
>> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
>> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
>> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>> >
>> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
>> > (RubEric@aol.com
>> >
>> > Eric.
>> >
>>
>> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
>> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
>> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over
>> the
>> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>>
>> Alan
>
> Alan:
>
> That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
> need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
>
> Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
> triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
> self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
> mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
> There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
> the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
> with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
> end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
> allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
> the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
> removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
> the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
> turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
>
> Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
> there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
> that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
> protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
> surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
> this part.
>
>
> There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
> to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
>
> Eric
>

Eric, I'm not the original poster, I just gave my 2 cents worth mainly about
being careful if using a spring compressor. I've replaced strut cartridges
many times, years ago, when it was a LOT more work! I'll use your advice
when I inherit my mothers A6 and put a set of Bilsteins on it.

Alan