hydraulic system problem
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 5 Nov, 20:10, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 5 Nov, 20:10, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 5 Nov, 20:10, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
> On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 19:01:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >the brake light flashes for up to
> >a minute on a cold start. On a warm start it doesn't flash.
> [snip]
> >Another point is that I've researched this, & tried the brake 'bomb'
> >test - switching the engine off, and pumping the brake pedal - it
> >takes over 40 pumps to go hard.
>
> I am not sure about your model, but on the earlier models, the warning
> light can have three possible causes:
>
> 1: Low brake fluid level.
> 2: Low hydraulic oil level.
> 3: Low hydraulic pressure.
>
> I'd say your bomb is slowly leaking. Try the bomb test before you
> start the engine after a night's rest.
> --
> RoRo
Hi Robert,
I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
has been fine for ages.
Many thanks,
Jamie
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fishjam@gmail.com wrote:
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fishjam@gmail.com wrote:
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fishjam@gmail.com wrote:
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
>I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
>the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
>this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
>has been fine for ages.
Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
seep out.
Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
say might be completely irrelevant:
I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
reservoir.
To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
overnight.
In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
also be the cause of the problem.
--
RoRo
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 6 Nov, 16:57, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 6 Nov, 16:57, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On 6 Nov, 16:57, Robert Roland <f...@ddress.no> wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 14:51:11 -0000, fish...@gmail.com wrote:
> >I tried the test this morning, after leaving the car over night, and
> >the brakes were hard straight away (before starting the engine) - does
> >this indicate the bomb is leaking? There's no loss of fluid, the level
> >has been fine for ages.
>
> Leaking may not be the correct word, but yes, it confirms my
> suspicion: Fluid is slowly seeping back into the reservoir. Notice how
> the fluid level is a little higher after the pressure has had time to
> seep out.
>
> Note that the car I used to have is not the same as yours, so what I
> say might be completely irrelevant:
>
> I can think of two possible causes. One is the pump. I that case,
> however, you'd have to have two check valves fail in a similar manner,
> i.e. both having a slow leak. I don't think that is likely.
>
> The other possible problem is that the brake booster (the one that the
> brake pedal activates) has a slow leak so that the pressure from the
> bomb slowly seeps through the valve and into the return line to the
> reservoir.
>
> To test: Disconnect the brake booster return line from the reservoir
> and place a jug under the open end, so that you catch any fluid that
> comes out. Start the engine and let the bomb charge. Don't touch the
> brake pedal while the return line is disconnected, or you'll make a
> mess. Stop the engine, note the reservoir fluid level, and leave
> overnight.
>
> In the morning, if there is fluid in the jug and the reservoir level
> is unchanged, the booster is bad. If the jug is empty and the
> reservoir level has increased, the pump is bad.
>
> If you have other hydraulic components, such as suspension, they can
> also be the cause of the problem.
> --
> RoRo
Thanks very much for your help, much appreciated. Is the booster the
same thing as the bomb?
J.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hydraulic system problem
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 00:49:52 -0000, fishjam@gmail.com wrote:
>Is the booster the
>same thing as the bomb?
No. The booster is the hydraulic actuator that sits between the brake
pedal and the master cylinder. It looks a lot like the master
cylinder, and is bolted directly to it.
The booster has two hydraulic lines connected to it: One is the high
pressure from the bomb, and the other is the return to the reservoir.
Do NOT disconnect the high pressure line unless you are absolutely
sure the bomb is discharged, because the pressure in that line is very
high.
--
RoRo
>Is the booster the
>same thing as the bomb?
No. The booster is the hydraulic actuator that sits between the brake
pedal and the master cylinder. It looks a lot like the master
cylinder, and is bolted directly to it.
The booster has two hydraulic lines connected to it: One is the high
pressure from the bomb, and the other is the return to the reservoir.
Do NOT disconnect the high pressure line unless you are absolutely
sure the bomb is discharged, because the pressure in that line is very
high.
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RoRo