Can it be driven??
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
"me" <me@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:2hqfo09kifooacsok43q2jnr2huaph5hp8@4ax.com...
> Hi, just a question, my aircon motor siezed up today and subsequently
> caused the belt to snap also.
> My question is, can I still drive without the aircon motor and belt
> that drives it?
If the belt is gone then I can't see why you can't drive it because its
running off the main crank & there is nothing else on the same belt - the
alternator, waterpump & power steering are all run off the main Serpantine
belt by the looks of it. That said I'd call Audi and/or the guys at
Wheelbase (www.wheelbase.uk.com) to check - don't take my word for it!
> and what sort of costs are involved in replacing the motor?
Lots I should think - try GSF or the scrapper - see what Audi say as well -
sometimes the difference between GSF parts & Audi parts is big, sometimes it
isn't. Look for someone who will do it on an exchange basis for you as well.
> The car is a 2000 A4 SE.
> Any advice appreciated, thanks.
It looks like it might be a pretty big job to get in there to replace the
thing as well. Prepare for £2-300 of labour just to get in there & deal with
it if you give it to a dealer. I would think its a complete Lock carrier
removal job (either that or bank on spending your weekend with a Haynes
manual for company!) They might be able to do it from underneath but somehow
I doubt it.
If it does involve taking the front of the car apart then depending on
mileage you might also think about doing a cambelt change & also changing
the Serpantine belt while you are in there given how much time its going to
take to get the thing apart.
I.
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
Thinking on this some more....
You may want to look into the root cause of this failure. The AC pump uses
the AC fluid as a lubricant AFAIK - so no fluid & the pump siezes - so if
your AC has leaked then this could well be the cause of the failure. If that
is the case you'll need to find the leak before you replace the pump and fix
that as well. Could be anywhere in the pipework or, worst case, the
evaporators. This unit is buried in the heater box & to get to it you have
to practically remove the entire dashboard. A £1300 job at a main dealer. (I
am assuming here that the design is basically the same as my 96 A4 which has
a very slow leak in the evaporators - I need to get the AC recharged about
once every 18 months.) As one tech explained it to me - they build the
floorpan, stick the heater box on it & then build the rest of the car around
it!
If you are going to attempt to replace the AC pump yourself then come what
may you should take the car to an AC place (or get a mobile guy to come to
you) & get them to drain the AC system first. Then ask them to test it for
leaks. They should be able to tell you how much fluid they were able to
retrieve from it which will give a good indicator as to whether a leaking AC
system is the root cause of your problem even before they test it. They test
it by pumping it full of some kind of gas and then look for leaks with some
kind of wierd gas detector.
You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
In considering all the relevant costs bear in mind the warranty you will get
on the repair if you have the work done by a dealer.
Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
HTH
I.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
Thinking on this some more....
You may want to look into the root cause of this failure. The AC pump uses
the AC fluid as a lubricant AFAIK - so no fluid & the pump siezes - so if
your AC has leaked then this could well be the cause of the failure. If that
is the case you'll need to find the leak before you replace the pump and fix
that as well. Could be anywhere in the pipework or, worst case, the
evaporators. This unit is buried in the heater box & to get to it you have
to practically remove the entire dashboard. A £1300 job at a main dealer. (I
am assuming here that the design is basically the same as my 96 A4 which has
a very slow leak in the evaporators - I need to get the AC recharged about
once every 18 months.) As one tech explained it to me - they build the
floorpan, stick the heater box on it & then build the rest of the car around
it!
If you are going to attempt to replace the AC pump yourself then come what
may you should take the car to an AC place (or get a mobile guy to come to
you) & get them to drain the AC system first. Then ask them to test it for
leaks. They should be able to tell you how much fluid they were able to
retrieve from it which will give a good indicator as to whether a leaking AC
system is the root cause of your problem even before they test it. They test
it by pumping it full of some kind of gas and then look for leaks with some
kind of wierd gas detector.
You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
In considering all the relevant costs bear in mind the warranty you will get
on the repair if you have the work done by a dealer.
Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
HTH
I.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>
> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>
> HTH
>
> I.
>
>
>
>
Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
outer half of the pulley spins freely.
That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
pressure to enable the clutch.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>
> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>
> HTH
>
> I.
>
>
>
>
Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
outer half of the pulley spins freely.
That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
pressure to enable the clutch.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 00:16:52 GMT, "Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote:
>
>"me" <me@somewhere.com> wrote in message
>news:2hqfo09kifooacsok43q2jnr2huaph5hp8@4ax.com.. .
>> Hi, just a question, my aircon motor siezed up today and subsequently
>> caused the belt to snap also.
>> My question is, can I still drive without the aircon motor and belt
>> that drives it?
>
>If the belt is gone then I can't see why you can't drive it because its
>running off the main crank & there is nothing else on the same belt - the
>alternator, waterpump & power steering are all run off the main Serpantine
>belt by the looks of it. That said I'd call Audi and/or the guys at
>Wheelbase (www.wheelbase.uk.com) to check - don't take my word for it!
>
>> and what sort of costs are involved in replacing the motor?
>
>Lots I should think - try GSF or the scrapper - see what Audi say as well -
>sometimes the difference between GSF parts & Audi parts is big, sometimes it
>isn't. Look for someone who will do it on an exchange basis for you as well.
>
>> The car is a 2000 A4 SE.
>> Any advice appreciated, thanks.
>
>It looks like it might be a pretty big job to get in there to replace the
>thing as well. Prepare for £2-300 of labour just to get in there & deal with
>it if you give it to a dealer. I would think its a complete Lock carrier
>removal job (either that or bank on spending your weekend with a Haynes
>manual for company!) They might be able to do it from underneath but somehow
>I doubt it.
Thanks iain, I dont do hayes stuff, fu** that, i have just put it in
to my local garage (not audi) sayes he will call me tomorrow with a
diagnosis and a cost. watch this space......... %0)
>
>If it does involve taking the front of the car apart then depending on
>mileage you might also think about doing a cambelt change & also changing
>the Serpantine belt while you are in there given how much time its going to
>take to get the thing apart.
Makes sense, but cam belt is ok. :0)
Cheers Dude..........
>
>I.
>
>
>
>
>"me" <me@somewhere.com> wrote in message
>news:2hqfo09kifooacsok43q2jnr2huaph5hp8@4ax.com.. .
>> Hi, just a question, my aircon motor siezed up today and subsequently
>> caused the belt to snap also.
>> My question is, can I still drive without the aircon motor and belt
>> that drives it?
>
>If the belt is gone then I can't see why you can't drive it because its
>running off the main crank & there is nothing else on the same belt - the
>alternator, waterpump & power steering are all run off the main Serpantine
>belt by the looks of it. That said I'd call Audi and/or the guys at
>Wheelbase (www.wheelbase.uk.com) to check - don't take my word for it!
>
>> and what sort of costs are involved in replacing the motor?
>
>Lots I should think - try GSF or the scrapper - see what Audi say as well -
>sometimes the difference between GSF parts & Audi parts is big, sometimes it
>isn't. Look for someone who will do it on an exchange basis for you as well.
>
>> The car is a 2000 A4 SE.
>> Any advice appreciated, thanks.
>
>It looks like it might be a pretty big job to get in there to replace the
>thing as well. Prepare for £2-300 of labour just to get in there & deal with
>it if you give it to a dealer. I would think its a complete Lock carrier
>removal job (either that or bank on spending your weekend with a Haynes
>manual for company!) They might be able to do it from underneath but somehow
>I doubt it.
Thanks iain, I dont do hayes stuff, fu** that, i have just put it in
to my local garage (not audi) sayes he will call me tomorrow with a
diagnosis and a cost. watch this space......... %0)
>
>If it does involve taking the front of the car apart then depending on
>mileage you might also think about doing a cambelt change & also changing
>the Serpantine belt while you are in there given how much time its going to
>take to get the thing apart.
Makes sense, but cam belt is ok. :0)
Cheers Dude..........
>
>I.
>
>
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 00:16:52 GMT, "Iain Miller" <donot@spam.me> wrote:
>
>"me" <me@somewhere.com> wrote in message
>news:2hqfo09kifooacsok43q2jnr2huaph5hp8@4ax.com.. .
>> Hi, just a question, my aircon motor siezed up today and subsequently
>> caused the belt to snap also.
>> My question is, can I still drive without the aircon motor and belt
>> that drives it?
>
>If the belt is gone then I can't see why you can't drive it because its
>running off the main crank & there is nothing else on the same belt - the
>alternator, waterpump & power steering are all run off the main Serpantine
>belt by the looks of it. That said I'd call Audi and/or the guys at
>Wheelbase (www.wheelbase.uk.com) to check - don't take my word for it!
>
>> and what sort of costs are involved in replacing the motor?
>
>Lots I should think - try GSF or the scrapper - see what Audi say as well -
>sometimes the difference between GSF parts & Audi parts is big, sometimes it
>isn't. Look for someone who will do it on an exchange basis for you as well.
>
>> The car is a 2000 A4 SE.
>> Any advice appreciated, thanks.
>
>It looks like it might be a pretty big job to get in there to replace the
>thing as well. Prepare for £2-300 of labour just to get in there & deal with
>it if you give it to a dealer. I would think its a complete Lock carrier
>removal job (either that or bank on spending your weekend with a Haynes
>manual for company!) They might be able to do it from underneath but somehow
>I doubt it.
Thanks iain, I dont do hayes stuff, fu** that, i have just put it in
to my local garage (not audi) sayes he will call me tomorrow with a
diagnosis and a cost. watch this space......... %0)
>
>If it does involve taking the front of the car apart then depending on
>mileage you might also think about doing a cambelt change & also changing
>the Serpantine belt while you are in there given how much time its going to
>take to get the thing apart.
Makes sense, but cam belt is ok. :0)
Cheers Dude..........
>
>I.
>
>
>
>
>"me" <me@somewhere.com> wrote in message
>news:2hqfo09kifooacsok43q2jnr2huaph5hp8@4ax.com.. .
>> Hi, just a question, my aircon motor siezed up today and subsequently
>> caused the belt to snap also.
>> My question is, can I still drive without the aircon motor and belt
>> that drives it?
>
>If the belt is gone then I can't see why you can't drive it because its
>running off the main crank & there is nothing else on the same belt - the
>alternator, waterpump & power steering are all run off the main Serpantine
>belt by the looks of it. That said I'd call Audi and/or the guys at
>Wheelbase (www.wheelbase.uk.com) to check - don't take my word for it!
>
>> and what sort of costs are involved in replacing the motor?
>
>Lots I should think - try GSF or the scrapper - see what Audi say as well -
>sometimes the difference between GSF parts & Audi parts is big, sometimes it
>isn't. Look for someone who will do it on an exchange basis for you as well.
>
>> The car is a 2000 A4 SE.
>> Any advice appreciated, thanks.
>
>It looks like it might be a pretty big job to get in there to replace the
>thing as well. Prepare for £2-300 of labour just to get in there & deal with
>it if you give it to a dealer. I would think its a complete Lock carrier
>removal job (either that or bank on spending your weekend with a Haynes
>manual for company!) They might be able to do it from underneath but somehow
>I doubt it.
Thanks iain, I dont do hayes stuff, fu** that, i have just put it in
to my local garage (not audi) sayes he will call me tomorrow with a
diagnosis and a cost. watch this space......... %0)
>
>If it does involve taking the front of the car apart then depending on
>mileage you might also think about doing a cambelt change & also changing
>the Serpantine belt while you are in there given how much time its going to
>take to get the thing apart.
Makes sense, but cam belt is ok. :0)
Cheers Dude..........
>
>I.
>
>
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 17:45:50 GMT, Chris Bartram
<news@delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>
>> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
>> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
>> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>>
>> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
>> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> I.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
>pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
>switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
>ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
>be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
>clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
>outer half of the pulley spins freely.
>
>That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
>checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
>pressure to enable the clutch.
Thanks for the input chris, this all seems a bit above my head, but i
think the unit is fuc**d as i think it has seized and that caused all
the smoke from the engine and cos it was so hot it caused the belt to
burn and then split. ;0(
I noticed when i was driving home the aircon started to rise and fall
then went off completley. so i think at that point the unit had died
on me. what do you think??
<news@delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>
>> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
>> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
>> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>>
>> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
>> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> I.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
>pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
>switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
>ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
>be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
>clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
>outer half of the pulley spins freely.
>
>That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
>checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
>pressure to enable the clutch.
Thanks for the input chris, this all seems a bit above my head, but i
think the unit is fuc**d as i think it has seized and that caused all
the smoke from the engine and cos it was so hot it caused the belt to
burn and then split. ;0(
I noticed when i was driving home the aircon started to rise and fall
then went off completley. so i think at that point the unit had died
on me. what do you think??
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 17:45:50 GMT, Chris Bartram
<news@delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>
>> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
>> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
>> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>>
>> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
>> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> I.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
>pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
>switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
>ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
>be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
>clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
>outer half of the pulley spins freely.
>
>That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
>checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
>pressure to enable the clutch.
Thanks for the input chris, this all seems a bit above my head, but i
think the unit is fuc**d as i think it has seized and that caused all
the smoke from the engine and cos it was so hot it caused the belt to
burn and then split. ;0(
I noticed when i was driving home the aircon started to rise and fall
then went off completley. so i think at that point the unit had died
on me. what do you think??
<news@delete.me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
>
>> You'd then need to get a mobile AC guy to come out & recharge the system for
>> you before you start the engine again. I wouldn't drive the thing even a
>> short distance with a new pump & no fluid.
>>
>> Bottom line, if your AC won't blow cold air then get your system tested for
>> leaks or recharged before your pump siezes....!
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> I.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Actually, its not so bad. As long as the elctromagnetic clutch on the
>pulley hasn't seized too, if the aircon has no gas there's a pressure
>switch that stops the clutch engaging- presumably for the exact reason
>ian says- the lubricant is injected into the refrigerant gas. This can
>be handy as an indicator of a system all the gas has leaked out of- the
>clutch on the pump pulley never engages, so the pump never runs- the
>outer half of the pulley spins freely.
>
>That said, if your aircon stops blowing cold it's good advice to get it
>checked, as some lubricant could get lost while there's still enough
>pressure to enable the clutch.
Thanks for the input chris, this all seems a bit above my head, but i
think the unit is fuc**d as i think it has seized and that caused all
the smoke from the engine and cos it was so hot it caused the belt to
burn and then split. ;0(
I noticed when i was driving home the aircon started to rise and fall
then went off completley. so i think at that point the unit had died
on me. what do you think??
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Can it be driven??
>
> Thanks for the input chris, this all seems a bit above my head, but i
> think the unit is fuc**d as i think it has seized and that caused all
> the smoke from the engine and cos it was so hot it caused the belt to
> burn and then split. ;0(
>
> I noticed when i was driving home the aircon started to rise and fall
> then went off completley. so i think at that point the unit had died
> on me. what do you think??
>
Yeah, it's knackered. What I meant was where another poster had said you
perhaps shouldn't drive the car after a new pump was fitted, but not had
the AC re-gassed, it would actually probably be OK, because the pump
won't run unless the AC is pressurised.
Your pump has had it. , and they're not cheap , and you'll need a
new receiver/dryer, and a regass as well.