Christoph Bollig

Hi again,

I found the following description on the SJM pages:

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim

However, he notes that this is for the following engines:

"10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"

Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
models?

How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?

Thanks,

Christoph

Tony

I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.

You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
problems.

Tonyj
..... same as the other one.

Plan on most of a day to do the job.

Christoph Bollig wrote:

> Hi again,
>
> I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>
> http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>
> However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>
> "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>
> Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> models?
>
> How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Christoph

Tony

I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.

You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
problems.

Tonyj
..... same as the other one.

Plan on most of a day to do the job.

Christoph Bollig wrote:

> Hi again,
>
> I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>
> http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>
> However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>
> "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>
> Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> models?
>
> How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Christoph

Tony

I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.

You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
problems.

Tonyj
..... same as the other one.

Plan on most of a day to do the job.

Christoph Bollig wrote:

> Hi again,
>
> I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>
> http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>
> However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>
> "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>
> Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> models?
>
> How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Christoph

Christoph Bollig

Hi again,

Thanks a lot for your help.

I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
something in writing about the little things to look out for.
Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
I don't know how many of them he has done recently.

One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?

BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
seal.

Thanks again,

Christoph

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
wrote:

> I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
> same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
> than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
> process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
> the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>
> You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
> line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
> tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
> antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
> replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
> Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
> problems.
>
> Tonyj
> .... same as the other one.
>
> Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>
> Christoph Bollig wrote:
>
> > Hi again,
> >
> > I found the following description on the SJM pages:
> >
> > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
> >
> > However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
> >
> > "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
> >
> > Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> > engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> > models?
> >
> > How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Christoph

Christoph Bollig

Hi again,

Thanks a lot for your help.

I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
something in writing about the little things to look out for.
Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
I don't know how many of them he has done recently.

One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?

BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
seal.

Thanks again,

Christoph

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
wrote:

> I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
> same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
> than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
> process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
> the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>
> You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
> line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
> tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
> antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
> replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
> Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
> problems.
>
> Tonyj
> .... same as the other one.
>
> Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>
> Christoph Bollig wrote:
>
> > Hi again,
> >
> > I found the following description on the SJM pages:
> >
> > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
> >
> > However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
> >
> > "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
> >
> > Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> > engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> > models?
> >
> > How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Christoph

Christoph Bollig

Hi again,

Thanks a lot for your help.

I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
something in writing about the little things to look out for.
Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
I don't know how many of them he has done recently.

One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?

BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
seal.

Thanks again,

Christoph

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
wrote:

> I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
> same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
> than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
> process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
> the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>
> You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
> line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
> tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
> antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
> replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
> Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
> problems.
>
> Tonyj
> .... same as the other one.
>
> Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>
> Christoph Bollig wrote:
>
> > Hi again,
> >
> > I found the following description on the SJM pages:
> >
> > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
> >
> > However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
> >
> > "10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
> >
> > Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
> > engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
> > models?
> >
> > How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Christoph

Tony

If the third party parts are German manufactured I would trust them otherwise it
might be a gamble and the Audi parts would be a better choice for this job.

The idler pulley is fixed. The adjustment for the belt tension is the water
pump. It rotates in and eccentric.

It is a good idea to replace the front crank shaft seal at this time as well
because it is easily accessible. Just remind the mechanic to not push the new
one in too far. Look at the position of the old one before removing it.

Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Thanks a lot for your help.
>
> I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
> to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
> guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
> print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
> assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
> something in writing about the little things to look out for.
> Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
> I don't know how many of them he has done recently.
>
> One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
> Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
> local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
> third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?
>
> BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
> something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
> tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
> seal.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Christoph
>
> On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
>>same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
>>than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
>>process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
>>the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>>
>>You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
>>line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
>>tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
>>antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
>>replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
>>Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
>>problems.
>>
>>Tonyj
>>.... same as the other one.
>>
>>Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>>
>>Christoph Bollig wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi again,
>>>
>>>I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>>>
>>>http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>>>
>>>However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>>>
>>>"10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>>>
>>>Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
>>>engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
>>>models?
>>>
>>>How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Christoph
>
>

Tony

If the third party parts are German manufactured I would trust them otherwise it
might be a gamble and the Audi parts would be a better choice for this job.

The idler pulley is fixed. The adjustment for the belt tension is the water
pump. It rotates in and eccentric.

It is a good idea to replace the front crank shaft seal at this time as well
because it is easily accessible. Just remind the mechanic to not push the new
one in too far. Look at the position of the old one before removing it.

Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Thanks a lot for your help.
>
> I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
> to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
> guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
> print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
> assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
> something in writing about the little things to look out for.
> Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
> I don't know how many of them he has done recently.
>
> One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
> Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
> local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
> third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?
>
> BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
> something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
> tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
> seal.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Christoph
>
> On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
>>same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
>>than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
>>process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
>>the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>>
>>You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
>>line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
>>tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
>>antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
>>replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
>>Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
>>problems.
>>
>>Tonyj
>>.... same as the other one.
>>
>>Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>>
>>Christoph Bollig wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi again,
>>>
>>>I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>>>
>>>http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>>>
>>>However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>>>
>>>"10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>>>
>>>Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
>>>engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
>>>models?
>>>
>>>How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Christoph
>
>

Tony

If the third party parts are German manufactured I would trust them otherwise it
might be a gamble and the Audi parts would be a better choice for this job.

The idler pulley is fixed. The adjustment for the belt tension is the water
pump. It rotates in and eccentric.

It is a good idea to replace the front crank shaft seal at this time as well
because it is easily accessible. Just remind the mechanic to not push the new
one in too far. Look at the position of the old one before removing it.

Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Thanks a lot for your help.
>
> I am actually not intending to do this myself. I have recently moved
> to Pretoria (South Africa) and looked around for garages. I found a
> guy who works from home and seems to be quite good. My intention is to
> print the section on SJM and give it to him, when he does the job. I
> assume he knows about the timing issues, but it's always good to have
> something in writing about the little things to look out for.
> Apparently he did his apprenticeship on these cars ~20 years ago, but
> I don't know how many of them he has done recently.
>
> One more question: As far as I know, I can get genuine parts only from
> Audi over here. I have the choice to get third-party parts from the
> local parts shops or the Audi parts from Audi. I'm tempted to get the
> third-party parts. Or would this be a high risk?
>
> BTW, the "idler pulley" is this the timing belt tensioner (or is it
> something else)? I was told I should get the timing belt, the
> tensioner and the water pump. No mention of an idler pulley or front
> seal.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Christoph
>
> On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:04:25 -0500, Tony <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I have done this job on five or more T44 non-turbos. The job is basically the
>>same as the turbo except that there are a few less coolant lines involved. Other
>>than that the timing procedure is the same. Be sure you understand the timing
>>process before starting. It is really quite easy but you need to be aware that
>>the timing mark on the cam pulley is on the back, not of the front of the gear.
>>
>>You will need to get the correct parts from Blaufergnugen, ECS or another on
>>line source. They all will rent the special tools for the job. You WILL need the
>>tools. Be sure to replace the water pump, idler pulley, front seal and
>>antifreeze in the process. As long as the system is drained you should also
>>replace the thermostat. Be sure to get the correct temperature range 87 degrees
>>Celsius. Most places have 82 degrees and that it too cold and will cause running
>>problems.
>>
>>Tonyj
>>.... same as the other one.
>>
>>Plan on most of a day to do the job.
>>
>>Christoph Bollig wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi again,
>>>
>>>I found the following description on the SJM pages:
>>>
>>>http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...g/eng.html#tim
>>>
>>>However, he notes that this is for the following engines:
>>>
>>>"10V Turbo MC Engine, 1991 200TQ 20V Turbo 3B Engine"
>>>
>>>Are there any descriptions anywhere for normal (non-turbo) 5cyl
>>>engines as in an Audi100 1989 model or for the earlier Audi100/5k
>>>models?
>>>
>>>How different is the procedure to the one described on SJM?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Christoph
>
>