Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
more days at least.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Okay cheap fix,
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Okay cheap fix,
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Okay cheap fix,
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
go and buy a new rotor arm for the distributor and if that fixes the problem
contact bosch uk and get a new distributor. The shaft bearings wear out and
the rotor arm contacts the contacts and heats up so much it blows the
resistor as it cools and warms it contacts. If this is happening it is
usually shown up as a crack in the dark brown resin they cover the resistor
with. Have a look at it. You should also be able to rock the rotor shaft
left to right if it is warn. Does this make sense?
Paul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Makes sense but the engine is sparking perfectly without fail, unless
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Makes sense but the engine is sparking perfectly without fail, unless
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Makes sense but the engine is sparking perfectly without fail, unless
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
the distributor tells the injectors when to fire? but when its cranking
there is no fuel going up the injector lines from what i can tell, no
fuel coming out of the metal round thing that all the fuel lines bolt
into. (except for the cold start)
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi 100 5cyl cold start problem
Just thought of something else. Are all of the wires connected especially
the idle valve. They could be corroded check them just pulling them off and
refitting a couple of times might help.
The rotor arm actually usually actually works the other way it will start
when cold but not hot, however I have had similar problems, I still think it
might be the fuel relay. Don't forget that once it gets going it has to keep
up the pressure and that takes more power to do so, so still try the bypass
that I suggested mine also had the cold start issue. Just tapping the relay
sometimes was enough during cranking to get it to start. If this has been
going on a while it is likely to have carbon deposits etc. You could always
take it out and take off the cover and have a look inside and see for
yourself.
By the way if it is make sure you buy the 5 cyl relaynot the 4 cylinder I
think there is an over rev cutout that will kill the engine at lower revs if
you get the wrong one.
PAul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>
the idle valve. They could be corroded check them just pulling them off and
refitting a couple of times might help.
The rotor arm actually usually actually works the other way it will start
when cold but not hot, however I have had similar problems, I still think it
might be the fuel relay. Don't forget that once it gets going it has to keep
up the pressure and that takes more power to do so, so still try the bypass
that I suggested mine also had the cold start issue. Just tapping the relay
sometimes was enough during cranking to get it to start. If this has been
going on a while it is likely to have carbon deposits etc. You could always
take it out and take off the cover and have a look inside and see for
yourself.
By the way if it is make sure you buy the 5 cyl relaynot the 4 cylinder I
think there is an over rev cutout that will kill the engine at lower revs if
you get the wrong one.
PAul
"sealdogfish" <sealdogfish@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138839745.569708.149990@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> I also forgot to mention that the car does start every three days or so
> and once it starts and warms up it runs fine. you can turn it off and
> restart it but when it cools back down it wont start again for a few
> more days at least.
>