drs

Has anyone changed the coolant in their 3.0? A4 has 63K on the clock and the dealer said no need to change. I just don’t believe in leaving cooling for 100K, especially when I own the car. I tried a search and can’t find any instructions. Also tried a google search and no info found.

Regards,
Dennis

1move

iTrader: (1)

Use only phosphate free coolant G 012 A8F A4 (Purple colored) with a 50:50 pixture ratio!!

Draining
Note:
Drained coolant must be stored in a clean container for disposal or reuse.
CAUTION!
Cover cap of expansion tank with rag and open carefully, as hot steam i.e. hot coolant may escape when opening.

Open cap of coolant expansion tank.
For vehicles with auxiliary heater, remove bolts - arrows - for exhaust pipe of parking heater/auxiliary heater on noise insulation.
Loosen quick-release fasteners - 1 through 3 - and remove front and rear noise insulation.
Place drip tray for workshop crane VAS 6208 under engine.
Disconnect coolant hose - arrow - from oil cooler and drain coolant.
Disconnect lower right coolant hose from radiator - arrow - and drain residual coolant.
Filling
Ignition switched off.
Note:
The cooling system is filled all year round with a mixture of frost and corrosion protection additives and water.
Use only coolant additive Plus G 012 A8F A1 (short: G12+ ) "according to TL VW 774 F" . Other coolant additives may above all reduce the corrosion protection effect significantly. The damage resulting from this may lead to loss of coolant and consequently to severe engine damage.
Coolant additive G12+ can be combined with additives G11 and G12 .
G12+ and coolant additives with the designation "according to TL VW 774 F" reduce frost and corrosion damage as well as lime deposits. They also raise the boiling point. For this reason the system must be filled all year round with frost and corrosion protection additives.
Because of its high boiling point, the coolant improves engine reliability under heavy loads, particularly in countries with tropical climates.
Protection against frost must be assured to about -25 ° C (in arctic climatic countries to about -35 ° C).
The coolant concentration must not be reduced by adding water even in warmer seasons and in warmer countries. The coolant additive portion must be at least 40%.
If for climatic reasons greater frost protection is required, the amount of G12+ can be increased, but only up to 60% (frost protection to about -40 ° C), otherwise frost protection and cooling effectiveness will be reduced.
Only clean drinking water may be used for mixing coolant.
If the radiator, heater core, cylinder head and cylinder head gasket or cylinder block is replaced, completely replace the engine coolant.
Dirty coolant must not be re-used.
For coolant G12+ , use refractometer T10007 to test frost protection in cooling system.
Secure all hose connections using hose clamps appropriate for the model type Electronic Parts Catalog "ETKA" .
Replace seal.
Connect coolant hose to oil cooler - arrow - .
Press coolant hose onto lower right connection of radiator - arrow - .
Fill replacement reservoir VAS 6096/1 with at least 12 liters of pre-mixed coolant with correct mixture ratio:
G12+ (40%) and water (60%) for frost protection up to -25 ° C
G12+ (50%) and water (50%) for frost protection up to -35 ° C
G12+ (60%) and water (40%) for frost protection up to -40 ° C
Place air outlet hose - 1 - into a small container - 2 - . (A small amount of coolant is drawn off which should be reserved with discharged air.)
Close both valves - A - and - B - by turning lever perpendicular to direction of flow.
Connect hose - 3 - to pressurized air.
Pressure: 6 to 10 bar positive pressure.
Open valve - B - , turn lever in direction of flow to do this.
A vacuum is created in cooling system by suction jet pump.
Needle on instrument display must travel into green region.
Also briefly open valve - A - , turn lever in direction of flow to do this, so that hose of replacement reservoir VAS 6096/1 is filled with coolant.
Close valve - A - again.
Let valve - B - remain open another 2 minutes.
A further vacuum is created in the cooling system by suction jet pump.
Needle on instrument display must still remain in green region.
Close valve - B - .
Needle in display instrument must remain in green region, then sufficient vacuum in cooling system is obtained for the upcoming filling.
If needle stands below green region, repeat procedure.
If vacuum decreases, cooling system is leaking.
Disconnect pressurized air hose.
Open valve - A - .
The vacuum in cooling system has the effect of extracting coolant from coolant reservoir VAS 6096/1 ; cooling system is filled.
Detach cooling system filler unit VAS 6096 from coolant expansion tank.
Connect adapter for VAG1274 tester V.A.G 1274/10 to adapter V.A.G 1274/8 .
Loosen coolant hose to heater core and pull back hose sufficiently so that the bleeder hole - arrow - in coolant hose is no longer sealed by the connection.
Fill up coolant until it escapes from coolant hose bleeder hole.
Push coolant hose onto connection and secure it with spring-type clamp.
If present, switch on auxiliary heater for about 30 seconds.
Twist cap for expansion tank closed.
Start engine.
Set heating air conditioning system to "HI" .
Let engine run at 2000 RPM for 3 minutes.
Let engine run at idle long enough until both large coolant hoses on main cooler are warm.
Let engine run at 2000 RPM for 1 minute.
Turn off engine and allow it to cool off.
Check coolant level.
With cold engine, coolant level must be at MAX marking.
Coolant level may be above MAX marking with engine at operating temperature.

whoace

Make sure you mix with distilled water. The minerals in tap water will cause the enzymes in the coolant to gel up leaving that sludgey crap.

drs

Thanks for the info.............

Do you agree that the coolant should be changed prior to 100K miles?

drs

1move

iTrader: (1)

Nope, I would change it around 120k km's though

akula-ssh

Note the units: 100k mile is around 160,000km

I'll be doing my timing belt shortly, and will be flushing the coolant while doing that since I'll also be doing the water pump while I'm at it. The consensus from AudiWorld seems to be that the belt should be changed at around 90k miles or 5-6 years for the 3.0, thus the coolant too.

1move

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I know what it converts out to, but I still like to do it a bit ahead of time

akula-ssh

My bad: I thought you meant you don't agree that the coolant should be changed before 100k miles with the "nope", so I thought you mistook the 100k miles as 100,000 km.