water temp cold
#13
Re: water temp cold
Cold inside means that you do not have enough pressure in the system.
Check your pump seal for leaks at the front of engine if not check for other leaks. You are looking for small leaks couple of drops. It is enough to loose pressure and therefore heat. It is not thermostat.
If somebody added radiator stop leak you need to keep flushing for a day.
You can add some baking soda to help loosen the clog. Watch out it will fizz. Once you added baking soda check the heat inside. It should rise due to extra pressure generated by the bubbles. If so keep flushing and checking for leaks.
Check your pump seal for leaks at the front of engine if not check for other leaks. You are looking for small leaks couple of drops. It is enough to loose pressure and therefore heat. It is not thermostat.
If somebody added radiator stop leak you need to keep flushing for a day.
You can add some baking soda to help loosen the clog. Watch out it will fizz. Once you added baking soda check the heat inside. It should rise due to extra pressure generated by the bubbles. If so keep flushing and checking for leaks.
Last edited by adamstasiak; 10-23-2010 at 12:24 PM.
#16
Re: water temp cold
okay got the heater core flushed 70$ and voila everything fine ,,the mechanic says he does lots of the audis ..says he beleives that there is a rad sealant put in at factory [ g.m. does] that eventually collects in core. adam i will try the abs cleaning connectors
#17
Re: water temp cold
Hey guys,
On the same track... my car the temp gauge does not seem to work (goes to 90 and then down to 50) and the only way i can get heat in my car is if I accelerate... if the car is idle it does not produce any heat.. i have changed the coolant sensor, heat core flush, thermostat c change.. earlier this year i did a timing belt, water pump and accessory belt... so a mechanic told me that there is air in the system but he can't get it out... he said it might be the water pump... what does everyone think?
On the same track... my car the temp gauge does not seem to work (goes to 90 and then down to 50) and the only way i can get heat in my car is if I accelerate... if the car is idle it does not produce any heat.. i have changed the coolant sensor, heat core flush, thermostat c change.. earlier this year i did a timing belt, water pump and accessory belt... so a mechanic told me that there is air in the system but he can't get it out... he said it might be the water pump... what does everyone think?
#18
Re: water temp cold
UPDATE:
Turns out that i needed to flush the heater core but not with water, i was told to use CLR and it did an amazing job. Got the heat working... the only remaining issue is the temp gauge not providing accurate readings... not sure what it could be (maybe the electical?) anyways not going to worry about that for now...
Turns out that i needed to flush the heater core but not with water, i was told to use CLR and it did an amazing job. Got the heat working... the only remaining issue is the temp gauge not providing accurate readings... not sure what it could be (maybe the electical?) anyways not going to worry about that for now...
#19
Re: water temp cold
I am glad it worked for you.
I have a concern either the mechanic neutralised the CLR after flush. CLR is Phosphoric acid H3PO4 and with time it will eat your radiator and the heater core. It may take a couple of months or a year, but it will happen. Flushing it out does not do the job as some of it is in your aluminum and will be released later. You need to add some base to it which contains OH- ions to convert the H+ ions to water. As an example it could be 10ml of ammonia or 5 grains of your dishwasher detergent.
The other concern is the possibility of the residue plugging your leak (if you had one) and in this case you will loose your heat again.
I have a concern either the mechanic neutralised the CLR after flush. CLR is Phosphoric acid H3PO4 and with time it will eat your radiator and the heater core. It may take a couple of months or a year, but it will happen. Flushing it out does not do the job as some of it is in your aluminum and will be released later. You need to add some base to it which contains OH- ions to convert the H+ ions to water. As an example it could be 10ml of ammonia or 5 grains of your dishwasher detergent.
The other concern is the possibility of the residue plugging your leak (if you had one) and in this case you will loose your heat again.
Last edited by adamstasiak; 12-01-2010 at 02:56 PM.
#20
Re: water temp cold
UPDATE:
Turns out that i needed to flush the heater core but not with water, i was told to use CLR and it did an amazing job. Got the heat working... the only remaining issue is the temp gauge not providing accurate readings... not sure what it could be (maybe the electical?) anyways not going to worry about that for now...
Turns out that i needed to flush the heater core but not with water, i was told to use CLR and it did an amazing job. Got the heat working... the only remaining issue is the temp gauge not providing accurate readings... not sure what it could be (maybe the electical?) anyways not going to worry about that for now...