So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
#22
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
#23
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
Did a compression test on the car today, here is the results:
Cylinder #1 188
Cylinder #2 180
Cylinder #3 175
Cylinder #4 190
This is what the spark plugs look like, pretty good
I also found out that it is a AEB head
Also as a bonus I found out that it has a K&N filter, NICE!!!
Cylinder #1 188
Cylinder #2 180
Cylinder #3 175
Cylinder #4 190
This is what the spark plugs look like, pretty good
I also found out that it is a AEB head
Also as a bonus I found out that it has a K&N filter, NICE!!!
#24
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
Thanks "vgourus" about that tranny level 10 site. Something to think about for sure if my trans does blow up. A 5spd swap would probably cost the same as putting in a bullitproof Tip.
My Audi got postposed for a few days while I put a new motor in my Honda I just put a used motor in it 3000kms ago and it started knocking. Warranty covered it and they gave me another motor so I am putting that in right now. Seriously sucks!!!! But if it's a good motor I can sell it and put some cash into my Audi and get it rollin
My Audi got postposed for a few days while I put a new motor in my Honda I just put a used motor in it 3000kms ago and it started knocking. Warranty covered it and they gave me another motor so I am putting that in right now. Seriously sucks!!!! But if it's a good motor I can sell it and put some cash into my Audi and get it rollin
#25
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
So I got the Honda all done and it is selling on Monday. Time to order parts and do some maintainance on the car.
Step 1: Rh inner tierod end. At this time I want to lower the car so I don't have to get an alignment twice. Any suggestions on spring and amount of drop??? I have noticed everyone using H&R... what about Nuespeed and Koni etc...
Step 2: Front brake pads and was thinking of upgrading the rotors. Any suggestions on performance rotors and pads would be nice.
Step 3: Exhaust work... Hmmm 2.5in or 3in???? This will be a custom exhaust with future mods to come in performance so I would like to keep that in mind so I don't have to do it again.
Step 4: Regular maintanance... all fluids flushed and new.
Step 5: LET'S ROLL OUT!!!!!! HAHAHAHA
Step 1: Rh inner tierod end. At this time I want to lower the car so I don't have to get an alignment twice. Any suggestions on spring and amount of drop??? I have noticed everyone using H&R... what about Nuespeed and Koni etc...
Step 2: Front brake pads and was thinking of upgrading the rotors. Any suggestions on performance rotors and pads would be nice.
Step 3: Exhaust work... Hmmm 2.5in or 3in???? This will be a custom exhaust with future mods to come in performance so I would like to keep that in mind so I don't have to do it again.
Step 4: Regular maintanance... all fluids flushed and new.
Step 5: LET'S ROLL OUT!!!!!! HAHAHAHA
#26
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
You could swap in a manual for waaaay less than a full Level 10 build would cost. I'll say it again: I don't know why you're wasting your time with a full-out build on a craptastic tiptronic...
That said :
1.) A cup kit is a horrible idea for the level of build you're proposing - do it right and at least get some decent coilovers. I'm not saying that you have to spend $5K on some remote reservoir Ohlins, but at least get a set of Bilstein PSS9s or something. I wouldn't even run a cup-kit on an otherwise stock car...
2.) If you're serious about your power goals, it's a good idea to have appropriate brakes. Now is the time to toss on a BBK (Big-Brake Kit). You'll also need high-end tires to maintain good braking traction. If you're not going to go BBK, just 'upgrading' the rotors won't do much other than reduce weight and possibly increase brake cooling (depends on the rotors). I do recommend shedding weight from the rotors - it will increase performance noticeably - but the pads and fluid are going to be what increases braking power and reduces fade.
3.) Definitely 3" or even 3.5"! 2.5" will start to give you problems at maybe 300hp. The last thing you want is $100 worth of piping restricting 50Whp, and melting turbos because of high EGTs due to excessive backpressure.
4.) Good thinking. Not many people do this, but for every used car I buy, I drain all the fluids and replace with those of my choice.
By the way, the K&N filter is not going to benefit your car any. Except blow-up MAFs if you oil it improperly.
That said :
1.) A cup kit is a horrible idea for the level of build you're proposing - do it right and at least get some decent coilovers. I'm not saying that you have to spend $5K on some remote reservoir Ohlins, but at least get a set of Bilstein PSS9s or something. I wouldn't even run a cup-kit on an otherwise stock car...
2.) If you're serious about your power goals, it's a good idea to have appropriate brakes. Now is the time to toss on a BBK (Big-Brake Kit). You'll also need high-end tires to maintain good braking traction. If you're not going to go BBK, just 'upgrading' the rotors won't do much other than reduce weight and possibly increase brake cooling (depends on the rotors). I do recommend shedding weight from the rotors - it will increase performance noticeably - but the pads and fluid are going to be what increases braking power and reduces fade.
3.) Definitely 3" or even 3.5"! 2.5" will start to give you problems at maybe 300hp. The last thing you want is $100 worth of piping restricting 50Whp, and melting turbos because of high EGTs due to excessive backpressure.
4.) Good thinking. Not many people do this, but for every used car I buy, I drain all the fluids and replace with those of my choice.
By the way, the K&N filter is not going to benefit your car any. Except blow-up MAFs if you oil it improperly.
#27
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
Hi Cheeba, thanks for the info. I have kinda took a different turn with this car due to the limitations of the tiptronic trans.
My new plan is to make a street car out of it and keep the HP around 240-270 with mild suspension and brake upgrades. Plus wheels and tires.
The reason is because I will eventually sell this car and buy a more suitable platform for what I want to achieve. That being said some cost effective mods are in order for this build.
As for the K&N filter it came with the car and i have the proper cleaning kit and do them all the time at work. The coils were a thought due to the fact that I have to do a wheel alignment anyways and can't afford to go full on coilovers at this time. Also if i don't plan on pushing over 300 I think I will go 3in on the exhaust. As for the brakes a good set of pads for now with do I guess.
Honestly I am kinda bummed about the auto/tip tranny not being able to do what I want it to unless I spend more on a trans than what the whole car is worth
My new plan is to make a street car out of it and keep the HP around 240-270 with mild suspension and brake upgrades. Plus wheels and tires.
The reason is because I will eventually sell this car and buy a more suitable platform for what I want to achieve. That being said some cost effective mods are in order for this build.
As for the K&N filter it came with the car and i have the proper cleaning kit and do them all the time at work. The coils were a thought due to the fact that I have to do a wheel alignment anyways and can't afford to go full on coilovers at this time. Also if i don't plan on pushing over 300 I think I will go 3in on the exhaust. As for the brakes a good set of pads for now with do I guess.
Honestly I am kinda bummed about the auto/tip tranny not being able to do what I want it to unless I spend more on a trans than what the whole car is worth
Last edited by bro460; 02-05-2011 at 08:42 PM.
#28
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
Why not just get this car up to good running standard and sell it for a tidy profit; which, you can use to buy a manual A4 and start building?
If you want to keep this car for a cost-effective build, but would still make a kick-*** daily driver, I'd do the following:
- Chip
- Turbo-back
- Rear anti-sway
- Coilovers
- Sticky tires
- Good brake pads and fluid
Also, if you're going to stick to the B5 A4 for your future build, consider that you can transfer parts from this car, so you might not want to cheap out now. Whatever works for you, though
If you want to keep this car for a cost-effective build, but would still make a kick-*** daily driver, I'd do the following:
- Chip
- Turbo-back
- Rear anti-sway
- Coilovers
- Sticky tires
- Good brake pads and fluid
Also, if you're going to stick to the B5 A4 for your future build, consider that you can transfer parts from this car, so you might not want to cheap out now. Whatever works for you, though
#29
Re: So here goes -- slow but steady I hope!!
I have thought about the option of building it up to be a DD with awesome parts and then transfer them all over to a 5spd car later when I want to start pulling some kick *** HP numbers. VERY GOOD IDEA!!! Thanks Cheeba.
Just curious? What kind of price am I looking at for all the parts to make this car a 5 spd? I can do all the labour so just an idea on parts would be nice with stuff like performance flywheel and clutch in mind also. I haven't given up on the idea of a conversion. I think the big reason i loved my 86 4000csQ was because it was a stick
Just curious? What kind of price am I looking at for all the parts to make this car a 5 spd? I can do all the labour so just an idea on parts would be nice with stuff like performance flywheel and clutch in mind also. I haven't given up on the idea of a conversion. I think the big reason i loved my 86 4000csQ was because it was a stick