saintrobbo

Hi All,

I own an Audi A4 1.8T 1996 saloon car. A weeks ago the hydraulic tappets, oil filter and timing belt was changed. On completion of the job, the car was taken for a test run and everything appeared to be in order. However, when the car was started on the second day it fired up and then died. The engine now cranks and cranks but will not start. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The ignition control amplifer has been replaced but this has not resolved the problem. The car is only firing on number one cylinder
Optional Information:
Year: 1996
Model: Audi A4 1.8T
Engine: AEB

Ran the Bosh diagnostics tool on two occasions the following error code appeared:
465A Power Supply Too High
The below code was generated by a VW scanner.

Power Supply B+ Terminal 30. Low Voltage.

Code 18010

Grateful if your help

saintrobbo

silva52@live.ca

https://www.audiforum.ca/audi-mailin...-supply-b.html

What does this mean..."18010 P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 - Low Voltage D".... - AudiWorld Forums

same type of problem

saintrobbo

Sorry for the misunderstanding, the VW Scanner produced the below fault code:

Code 18010

Apparently, this code appears if the ECU is removed from the car or the battery is disconnected. This did indeed happen so I am not surprise by this error code.

However, we cannot understand why the car is only firing on number one cylinder. The ignition module has been replaced but the problem is still occuring.

Regards

saintrobbo

P-Lo

i had a similar problem... ended up being the fuel pump. i kicked the fuel tank good and hard, and i got the engine to sputter for 3 or 4 seconds, then figured the pump was bad. 2 hour job max.

saintrobbo

Thanks P-Lo

Saintrobbo

pablo_ottawa

Yeah.... It could very well be your fuel pump but honestly, who knows....... My dad always told me;

If it cranks but won't start it's due to one of two reasons.

1. Not enough air
2. Not enough fuel.

So it could be your fuel filter...... Or Air filter.

saintrobbo

Thanks for the advice Pablo_ottawa

Regards

SAINTROBBO

saintrobbo

Additional information following an update from Pablo_ottawa.

What we did discover was that there was no “whirring” sound coming from the fuel pump. A test was conducted between terminal 1 and 4 of the fuel pump harness connector, with the ignition key on and there was no battery power present. A reading of 12V should have been present across these two terminals. There was also no 12 volts present at Fuse 28. The technician did conduct a bypass test and applied a 12v directly to F28 and the pump did start to “whirr”. We tried cranking the car with the bypass procedure in place but the car still would not start.

The only components left, which could provide a 12 voltage to fuel pump is the fuel pump relay, ignition switch and the Motronic control unit.

Grateful for additional help.

saintrobbo

rodb

Check the engine speed sensor. Mine cranked fine and that was the problem. It's a sensor that turns on the fuel pump when it detects the flywheel spinning. If it fails, it doesn't "see" the spinning flywheel and therefore won't turn on the fuel pump (s). $300 installed at dealer.

pablo_ottawa

Better yet. Save yourself the money and do it yourself. Not the toughest job I've done (DV and Fuel pump were tougher) but it will save you the cash.

There's a writeup on it somewhere.

Now, before you do all this make DAMM SURE it is the speed sensor. Run a diagnostic to be sure so you're not spending tons of cash for nothing.

Good Luck